Chevy Impala SS Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had to replace the shocks on my civilian caprice, and went (per mechanic's suggestion) with KYB gas-a-justs, and I was thinking of going the whole 9 and upgrading the suspension to resemble a 9C1.

A search on the subject tells me I have to replace the lower trailing arms in order to install a rear sway bar, but other than that is there anything else I have to do to a civilian car to prep it for new sway bars and 9C1 springs?

Suggestions appreciated and thanks much.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
314 Posts
Depends on what year Caprice. You may not need to replace anything for a rear sway bar. Do a quick search on the forum. It has been covered since the crash.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,115 Posts
It all depends on how much $$$ you have on hand, and what you do with your car? If it's a just a daily driver, and your limited with cash flow, you can find a used complete set of GM OEM REAR lower control arms, Impala rear sway bar and all the hardware failrly cheap, and install the setup with little effort, But the stock rear arms setup is basic and minimal. For the basic daily driver....It's works! I Installed this setup on the Wifes 93 Roadmaster years ago with ZERO Problems so far. Go to the "Parts for sale/wanted section of the forum and look or put in a WTB (Want to buy) Request there. If you wan to retain your stock ride height, the stock springs will be fine or a set of aftermarket "Direct repalcements will work too. If you want to achieve the lower ride height of the Impala ss, Both front AND rear Springs will need to be replaced. Alot of members replace the rear lower control arms with a set of aftermarket "Boxed In" arms and sometimes a custom rear sway bar for an even stronger setup. Here's a couple of links to aftermarket suppliers of Caprice/Impala SS Arms, sway bars and springs.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/ImpalaSS.html

http://www.powerperformancemotorsports.com/category.sc?categoryId=21

Top of the line IMO

http://www.globalwest.net/IMPALA-SS_PARTS_FROM_GLOBAL_WEST_SUSPENSION_COMPONENETS_INC.htm


Depends on what year Caprice. You may not need to replace anything for a rear sway bar. Do a quick search on the forum. It has been covered since the crash.
The L99 Civi Caprice came with stock rear lower control arms and NO holes in the arms for the mounting hardware to mount a rear swaybar too. He needs to get a set of OEM Arms with the holes in the top of the arms so that the bolts can go thru the arms/sway bar and attach it to the arms to the sway bar. GM Fixed the arms with a upgraded ( :rolleyes: ) setup and better hardware from the original set...Again, for a daliy driver, it works.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Ok I have been looking for a while and this is as close to what I am about to do as I can find. I have also have a civilian model Caprice and am about to put a rear sway bar on it. I have not checked my control arms yet, however, if they are missing mounting holes could they simply be modified to accept the mounting hardware that comes with the one I will be picking up out of a junk yard? Oh mine is a 94, I think I read somewhere that the type of mount changed this year. Any help with is appreciated, otherwise I guess I'll pick up the part and go from there. :D
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Maybe just lucky, but I have yet to see control arms without the holes. All the ones I've come across have the 4 offset holes that go left to right that supports the older swaybar set up. There is a U shaped bracket that slides up into the arm and is held in by those 4 bolt holes. Bar bolts to the bottom of the U.

The improved arm has 2 holes at the top of the arm and some washers that span the bottom of the arm. The bar is connected with 2 bolts (per side) that go thru the top of the arm, thru the washers, and then thru the bar.

I'd have to take another look, but I think even these arms have the 4 offset holes.

The weakest thing I found about the old set up is the U bracket does not have nuts for the 4 bolts. But rather is punched to take a self tapping bolt. Good enough for a stock bar. For bigger ones, I weld in 4 nuts to the bracket. And then can get a good grade 8 bolts and tightened up well.
This has worked fine for me for more then 150K miles with the big 1 1/2" HA bar.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top