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Hi , so.. (1996 caprice 4.3) day before yesterday I lost my dash and running lights. All other lights are working no prob. Fuses are good but not getting power to 41 42 and 43. I am thinking its perhaps the headlight switch. That presents two problems. 1 ripping into 3/4 of the dash to get to it and 2 NO ONE has one! Its discontinued and even no longer aftermarket! Anyone have a testing and repair procedure? I have basic lights not twilight sentinel and not dtr. Switch pic below. Thanks so much for any help.
 

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Yes a week of scouring the internet the library. Probing and poking wires all but pulling the dash apart. 98% of what I found spoke of twilight sentinel and dtr neither of which I have. As for trying a new switch that seams impossible as none can be found! All fuses test good. No power to mentioned fuses.
 

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Yeah OUCH! now I definitely want a way to test before I make that plunge. Oreily showed they could get same ones but turned out they couldn't. Hopefully it's not the same for rockauto.
 

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98% of what I found spoke of twilight sentinel and dtr neither of which I have.
The TW circuit can be ignored if you do not have it.


The 1994 diagram is different than the 1996 I am looking at.

You did not mention anything about Fuse#31 which powers the tail light and instrument lamp fuses. These are the only two fuses connected to #31 in the 96 diagram.


Goldswagon Wiring Diagrams


Look at the headlamp DLR or Twilight, external, and instrument diagrams.



Fuses are good but not getting power to 41 42 and 43
Are you looking at the right circuit diagram or fuse box diagram? The 1996 seems to be different.


I just pulled out a 1996 Owners manual. I see it shows 41,42, and 43. Does not match with Goldswagon diagram.


For 94-96 it seems that these fuses are supplied by #31.
 

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.....
You did not mention anything about Fuse#31 which powers the tail light and instrument lamp fuses. These are the only two fuses connected to #31 in the 96 diagram.

........

That's more what I was driving at. The OP may not presume to walk around the back of the car if the dash/running are out. No power to the first mentioned fuses may be fed from an upstream block fuse. That's what I was half-conjecturating from the thread I linked up there.



Final thought - I'd be hunting slightly earlier work on the car that may have messed up a ground, or, find those upstream fuses/breakers/relays whatever, v. zooming in on the switch. Sure they go bad, but unless some special abuse/overuse the other stuff's more probable.
 

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Hi , so.. (1996 caprice 4.3) day before yesterday I lost my dash and running lights. All other lights are working no prob. Fuses are good but not getting power to 41 42 and 43. I am thinking its perhaps the headlight switch. That presents two problems. 1 ripping into 3/4 of the dash to get to it and 2 NO ONE has one! Its discontinued and even no longer aftermarket! Anyone have a testing and repair procedure? I have basic lights not twilight sentinel and not dtr. Switch pic below. Thanks so much for any help.
no power to the fuses 41/42/43 .. you have no park lamps working but the headlamps work so with my work looking this up on my OEM 1996 B body diagram the fuse maybe #31 label ext LPS fuse 20amp.

now if you had no headlamps "also" then it would be the fuseable link A..that feeds both park and headlamp power to the operator dash control switch .. good luck ..

If I posted the diagram forum would dump it quickly ..
 

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That fuse looks fine too.. I'm going to try replacing it and see.. ya know the ol looks fine but still bad
 

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That fuse looks fine too.. I'm going to try replacing it and see.. ya know the ol looks fine but still bad

You are wasting time without a test light or voltmeter.


Fuse #31 is fed by a fusible link. The horn is fed by the same fusible link(as per Goldwagon's diagram). Does your horn work? If it was a 94 I would ask you if your headlights worked.



There is no point in testing anything else unless you verify voltage on both sides of fuse #31. You cannot blame the headlight switch if it is not getting power.
 

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You are wasting time without a test light or voltmeter.


Fuse #31 is fed by a fusible link. The horn is fed by the same fusible link(as per Goldwagon's diagram). Does your horn work? If it was a 94 I would ask you if your headlights worked.



There is no point in testing anything else unless you verify voltage on both sides of fuse #31. You cannot blame the headlight switch if it is not getting power.
all he has to do is find a 20A fuse and plug it in the #31 fuse socket then turn the head lamp switch on park position .............. do not need a key etc.. just a fuse swap ..

many ask for quick fix answers .. when electrical no tools or other ability not gonna help just begin the part changing .. I do not have 1994 wiring but I do have my 1996 wiring complete..must be that #31 fuse circuit .. probably a bulb shorted out it does happen then that fuse will blow. if the new fuse blows I would remove all those park lamps and test them out ..
 

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So this is one of those doh moments...you see both the truck and the car broke down a day apart..his truck launched a plug. He swore up and.down he went through all the fuses that everything was fine. He ripped out the aftermarket license plate light and gave up after that.. turns out it indeed was the #31.. this is what happens when you question going over your spouses work. As for not searching..this forumn actually didnt come up in searches when looking for the symptom. I scoured everywhere else and the answers were to do with dtr and twilight sentinel and one about a car stereo. The only.electrical work this hearse has had was the new stereo in the spring and the new license plate light. The hard part is find correct wiring diagram. Thanks so much for your help! (Fyi local chevy dealer mechanic said I needed a turn signal switch that the power to the running lights went through there!)
 

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Kudos

Hey Jen, thanks for the update and I'm happy it was an inexpensive fix. That's always a good thing.
On a side note: I married a SwtGrl2nomotho. On her last birthday I said I married a young girl and now I have an old lady. I got lucky.
This didn't happen. It was her qualification with her then new XD .45.
IMG_0021.jpg


Mark: Snowman-33
 

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So this is one of those doh moments...you see both the truck and the car broke down a day apart..his truck launched a plug. He swore up and.down he went through all the fuses that everything was fine. He ripped out the aftermarket license plate light and gave up after that.. turns out it indeed was the #31.. this is what happens when you question going over your spouses work. As for not searching..this forumn actually didnt come up in searches when looking for the symptom. I scoured everywhere else and the answers were to do with dtr and twilight sentinel and one about a car stereo. The only.electrical work this hearse has had was the new stereo in the spring and the new license plate light. The hard part is find correct wiring diagram. Thanks so much for your help! (Fyi local chevy dealer mechanic said I needed a turn signal switch that the power to the running lights went through there!)
since #31 fuse blew and that is 20amps check all the lamps / bulbs ..the bulbs socket and glass have a adhesive and what happens is the glass portion may flop down and create a short .. I have had to replace bulbs on old vehicles and my 96 IMP... removed the rear tail lamp housing to clean up them and paint work ..
I use dielectric grease on the bulb socket .. GM did do this at factory..
 

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... ....turns out it indeed was the #31.. ......1.) As for not searching..this forumn actually didnt come up in searches when looking for the symptom. I scoured everywhere else and the answers were to do with dtr and twilight sentinel and one about a car stereo.



2.) The hard part is find correct wiring diagram. Thanks so much for your help! 3.) (Fyi local chevy dealer mechanic said I needed a turn signal switch that the power to the running lights went through there!)

Glad your hus-, I mean you tracked it down. Now,
1.) Being on this forum for [too many] years I know the twistee turnies of how I and others think with these tubs. Put your search in quote marks to get entirely different results than without. Ex: "no dash lights" will let you know pretty quick if the hits are even close to what you're hunting. If not, then try a small recombination/changed word(s). Also, you've noted by now that even within just whalebody gen of B/Ds there's numerous differences between years. And marques. Data mining is an art here, but it's darned near impossible to come up with something ain't been covered already.

2.) You really really need to grab a $50 FSM.
3.) You betcha duppa, and if/when you both discovered that didn't work then you'd be the one out double $ signs for the dealer part and maybe triple $ signs for labor. Not the mech. Plus, an excellent opportunity for something else to get fubared in the steering col. lol. Do your own wrenching, especially on a 20+ year old clattertrap GM. It's easy and cheap and gratifying. More so with that FSM.


:: preaches off/:: Glad you got off with just the cost of a fuse.
 

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Glad your hus-, I mean you tracked it down. Now,
You have replaced #31 a 20 Amp fuse. 41,42, and 43 are 10 Amp. So I have a alarm bell ringing in my head. Please check that these fuses are 10 Amp. It is rare and odd that the higher amp fuse blew first, but I have seen it.

In future please identify your car as a hearse. This gives us a heads up that some wiring has been modified by GM and a up fitter. This also suggests it was a wagon which also has some different wiring than a sedan. Any modifications should be mentioned.

You are wasting time without a test light or voltmeter.
I hope this did not offend anyone. But why pull a fuse when you can just touch it with a test probe. A fuse not pulled is a fuse not dropped, lost, or put back in the wrong spot. I get test lights at the dollar store and they are worth more than that as a time saver. With the circuit powered: ground one lead(clean metal on the chassis) then touch the two metal parts on the top of the fuse. Power on only one and you know the fuse is dead. Power on both and the fuse is fine.


That fuse looks fine too.. I'm going to try replacing it and see.. ya know the ol looks fine but still bad
The reason I do not suggest fuse swapping is that it can damage the fuse panel contacts. When you put a fuse into a live circuit with a short the fuse will1 blow in your fingers. As the current starts flowing at first contact surface arching occurs that may damage the fuse holder contacts. Repeated shorting out of a circuit can damage wires, connectors, switches, ect.

For those like me that started with the circuit diagrams and not the owners manual:
Fuse #31 Headlamp switch Headlamp auto control module Daytime running lamps control module. This description seems misleading to me and maybe the OP.

The hard part is find correct wiring diagram. Thanks so much for your help! (Fyi local chevy dealer mechanic said I needed a turn signal switch that the power to the running lights went through there!)
Down load all the 96 PDFs from Goldswagon. They can be printed or kept on a cell phone or tablet for easy use. Never let that mechanic touch your car. I have never seen a vehicle that ran it's PARK lights through the turn signal switch.

:: preaches off/:: Glad you got off with just the cost of a fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry I didnt mention the hearse mod in the post. The car is a sedan. Vin confirms this. Why I dunno since they used wagon rear lights and the whole rear door thing thus extra lights but who knows. It was an unusually high stress week as the light issue happened the day after husbands f150 launched yet another plug (hmm maybe I was right and we should have done inserts on all 8) he came home late slamming doors and cursing I ask the obvious he gives me "the look" i go from there.. In the future I will start from scratch and start from the beginning myself. I had found the page with those diagrams but as of the moment I had only my cell phone to look at them and that's a pain. I intend to go to the library and print them for future reference until I can track down a set of factory manuals. Anyhow I appreciate all your time guys! Needless to say the sheepish look on husbands face was priceless!
 

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I didnt mention the hearse mod in the post. The car is a sedan. Vin confirms this. Why I dunno since they used wagon rear lights and the whole rear door thing
I thought you had a strange one when you said 1996 caprice 4.3 hearse.



The 1996 VIN does not seem to define if it is a chevy sedan or wagon. It does define a difference between roady wagon and sedan. Yours should be the BB = Coachbuilder (Limo/Hearse) Wagon with the P = LT1 5.7L.


Quick reminder to all. Never post a complete VIN#. I still have problems with a motorcycle that was unregistered for a number of years. One of the previous owners reused the VIN for another bike and I am sometimes forced to produce the bill of sale and bike to register it.



I do not have a 96FSM but the 94 is close. Have a look at this:


My Friend is lookin to buy a B-Body and I hadnt seen this in a while so I thought i'd repost it

VIN Position

Description

Position 1

Country of Origin:
1 = U.S.A.
2 = Canada
3 = Mexico
4 = U.S.A.
J = Japan
K = Korea

Position 2

Company built by:
G = General Motors/Suzuki
8 = Isuzu
Y = NUMMI
L = Daewoo
C = CAMI/GM of Canada

Position 3

Make or division:
1 = Chevrolet
2 = Pontiac
3 = Oldsmobile
4 = Buick
5 = Pontiac incomplete vehicle (PAS)
6 = Cadillac
7 = GM of Canada
8 = Saturn
A = Chevy Bus
B = Chevy incomplete vehicle
C = Chevy Truck
D = GMC incomplete vehicle (PAS)
E = Cadillac incomplete vehicle
H = Oldsmobile Multi-Purpose Vehicle (MPV)
J = GMC Bus
K = GMC Multi-Purpose Vehicle (MPV)
L = Buick incomplete vehicle
M = Pontiac Multi-Purpose Vehicle (MPV)
N = Chevy Multi-Purpose Vehicle (MPV)
T = GMC Truck
Y = Pontiac Multi-Purpose Vehicle (MPV)

Positions 4 & 5

Carline/Series: ('91+ B-car only)
1991:
BL = Caprice Sedan/Wagon
BN = Caprice Classic/Caprice Classic LTZ Sedan
BR = Roadmaster Estate Wagon
BP = Custom Cruiser Wagon
BB = Coachbuilder (Limo/Hearse) Wagon
1992:
BL = Caprice Sedan/Wagon
BN = Caprice Classic/Caprice LTZ Sedan
BN = Roadmaster Sedan
BT = Roadmaster Limited Sedan
BR = Roadmaster Estate Wagon
BP = Custom Cruiser Wagon
BB = Coachbuilder (Limo/Hearse) Wagon
1993:
BL = Caprice Classic Sedan/Wagon
BN = Caprice Classic LS/Caprice Classic LTZ Sedan
BN = Roadmaster Sedan
BT = Roadmaster Limited Sedan
BR = Roadmaster Estate Wagon
BB = Coachbuilder (Limo/Hearse) Wagon
1994:
BL = Caprice Classic Sedan/Wagon
BN = Caprice Classic LS/Impala SS Sedan
BN = Roadmaster Sedan
BT = Roadmaster Limited Sedan
BR = Roadmaster Estate Wagon
BB = Coachbuilder (Limo/Hearse) Wagon
1995-1996:
BL = Caprice Classic Sedan/Wagon, Impala SS Sedan
BN = Roadmaster Sedan
BT = Roadmaster Limited Sedan
BR = Roadmaster Estate Wagon
BB = Coachbuilder (Limo/Hearse) Wagon

Position 6

Body style:
1 = 2-door coupe/sedan
2 = 2-door hatchback/liftback
3 = 2-door convertible
4 = 2-door station wagon
5 = 4-door sedan
6 = 4-door hatchback/liftback
7 = 4-door liftback
8 = 4-door station wagon

Position 7

Restraint codes:
1 = Active (manual) belts
2 = Active (manual) belts w/driver & passenger air bags
3 = Active (manual) belts w/driver air bag
4 = Passive (automatic) belts
5 = Passive (automatic) belts w/driver air bag
6 = Passive (automatic) belts w/driver & passenger air bags

Position 8

Engine type: ('91+ B-car only)
P = LT1 5.7L - 260 HP @ 5000, 330 lb-ft @ 3200
W = L99 4.3L - 200 HP @ 5200, 245 lb-ft @ 2400
7 = L05 5.7L - 205 HP @ 4400, 300 lb-ft @ 2800 (9C1 Police)
7 = L05 5.7L - 180 HP @ 4200, 300 lb-ft @ 2800
E = L03 5.0L - 170 HP @ 4000, 255 lb-ft @ 2400

Position 9

Check digit:
This is a VIN checksum used to verify VIN legality.

Position 10

Model year:
A = 1980
B = 1981
C = 1982
D = 1983
E = 1984
F = 1985
G = 1986
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996

Position 11

Plant:
A = Lakewood, GA
B = Lansing (Reatta), MI
B = Baltimore (Truck & Bus), MD
B = Pupyong, KOREA
C = Lansing, MI
D = Doraville, GA
E = Linden, NJ
E = Pontiac (Truck & Bus), MI
F = Fairfax II, KS
F = Flint (Truck & Bus), MI
G = Framingham, MA
H = Flint, MI
J = Janesville (Truck & Bus), WI
J = Janesville, WI
K = Leeds, MO
K = Kosai, JAPAN
L = Van Nuys ('82-'92 F-car), CA
M = Lansing, MI
N = Norwood ('82-'87 F-car), OH
R = Arlington (B-car), TX
S = St. Louis (Truck & Bus), MO
S = Ramos Arizpe, MEXICO
T = Tarrytown (Truck & Bus), NY
U = Hamtramck, MI
V = Pontiac (Truck & Bus), MI
W = Willow Run (B-car), MI
W = Iwata, JAPAN
X = Fairfax, KS
Y = Wilmington, DE
Z = Fremont, CA
Z = Spring Hill (Saturn), TN
Z = Fort Wayne (Truck & Bus), IN
0 = Pontiac (Truck & Bus), MI
1 = Wentzville, MO
1 = Oshowa 2, ONTARIO
2 = Moraine (Truck & Bus), OH
2 = Ste. Therese ('93-'96+ F-car), QUEBEC
3 = Detroit (Truck & Bus), MI
3 = Kawasaki, JAPAN
3 = St. Eustache, QUEBEC
4 = Orion, MI
4 = Scarborough, ONTARIO
5 = Bowling Green ('84-'96+ Corvette), KY
5 = London, ONTARIO
6 = Oklahoma City, OK
6 = Ingersoll, ONTARIO
7 = Lordstown, OH
7 = Lordstown (Truck & Bus), OH
7 = Fujisawa, JAPAN
8 = Shreveport (Truck & Bus), LA
9 = Detroit, MI
9 = Tillsonburg, ONTARIO
9 = Oshawa 1, ONTARIO

Positions 12-17

Sequence Number:
100001 = 1st vehicle
200001 = 100001st vehicle, etc.



Posted by: enigmah22
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/7-concerns/626641-vin-decoder.html
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Here is a black one like mine..
https://www.carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/48280372
It too has the 4.3 "baby lt1" used for 3 years strictly in caprice. Also note attached partial vin pic 5 states sedan. This practical series by Superior hearse company was like a low end no frills.
 

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