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Discussion Starter #1
does anyone have a tip or tool to remove the front frame bolts for the rear control arms?
the bolts spin freely but dont back out

I like a good challange, but there's no access for my sledge(dual exhaust)on one end
and the head is inside the frame on the other

:mad:
 
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Discussion Starter #2
Box wrench on one side, torque wrench with 6 inch extension through the hole in the frame on the other. Worked for me.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Erik,...I've got the nut off, But how did you get the bolt to pull out?? :confused:
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Once I got the control arm off, it just pulled out along with the socket and the extension. I don't remember having any real problems getting the control arm off or the bolt out (maybe I pushed it into the frame, through the control arm, from the outside?), but I think it was a little dicey getting the bolt the rest of the way out without dropping it inside the frame (I may even have dropped it and been able to sneak it out with two fingers, I don't really remember). I think if I was doing it now I'd try wadding up a little duct tape inside the socket to help it stay in there. Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Actually, now that I think about it more, I'm pretty sure that what I did to get the bolt out of the control arm was use my 3/8" extension as a drift to drive the bolt part of the way out and into the frame and then push it the rest of the way through with my finger while using the 1/2" extension and socket to guide it out the rest of the way from the other side. I don't think it took a lot of effort to drive it out, but you can't get a straight shot at it.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Tell me about not being able to get at it, I've put my flat bar on the it and tried to hit it with my 3 pound sledge but the sucker won't back out.I dont get it, the bolt's got enough play in it to move around. same thing on both sides too.
at this point brawn isnt gonna do it, so I was hoping brains will get it out or remove the welded exhaust to gain access for the sledge??
sounds like a good time to get that borla installed ,-maybe the wife will buy that story... :rolleyes:
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Tony,

Sounds like the bolt is seized to the inner bushing sleeve, common in areas where road "chemicals" are used. Spray it with lots of your favorite rust penetrant and drive for a few days. If that doesn't do it, repeat step 1. A couple tries ought to get her loose. Otherwise, one trick is to heat the bolt up until cherry red, and let it cool down. That may knock the rust loose inside the sleeve.

Hope that helps.

Mark
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I don't remember having this much trouble with mine. Maybe it's the same kind of forgetfulness that made me have more than one kid. If the bolt's got enough play in it to move around, it should come out. Does it rotate inside the control arm or is it just that the whole assembly moves around. If the latter, maybe you can break it free with the socket from the other side (that is, get it to start rotating) and it will come out after that. Alternatively, can you get a C clamp on it and use that to drive the bolt out? Or a gear puller? If I'm picturing it correctly, I think you could get a C clamp in there (although not quite square), with the top of the clamp against the frame and the screw against the bolt and press the bolt part of the way at least.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Tony, do you by any chance have the diff hanging? If so you may have the bushings bound up. With the car at normal ride height the angles are such that there is little load on the bushing. If you have the diff hanging this maybe your problem. If you are up on stands remove the springs so you can lift the diff up with a jack. This may make things easier for you. Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Gerry i should have mentioned i already removed the rear LCA bolts from the diff and the arms are flappin' freely...(those were tight as well, but I at least had some access to drive them out).
I'm gonna try what Mark has suggested,...
this car has seen alot of chemicals and that bolt is probably seized to the steel sleeve.
and Erik, good suggestion with the "C" clamp, I had a few around so I had already given that a try - but still no luck. I have also checked with the local counter dude's to see if there was a cool tool for this application but they all just scratch there heads.
thanks all,
Tony
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Ah Yes, in that case Mark is likly on the money. Heat , soak, pry , swear, you have the idea. Dropping the exhaust may end up being the least of the evils. Another last ditch deal that can help is drilling through the bushing and sleeve to hit the cavity between the bolt and sleeve ( they are not a close fit between each other in the middle)so you can get some sort of lube in. Good luck, Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Oh great...problems with a '95 9c1...the same car I have. I'm expecting my new control arms any day now. I had planned to cut off my stock exhaust system to allow better acces to replace the whole shootin' match: shocks, springs, upper & lower control arms and install Dynomax. Will removing the exhaust help me get to the infamous upper control arms and diff bushings??? Maybe I should leave the exhaust alone for now??? :(
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Hey Marlon,
Removing the exhaust will help you a great deal with the control arms. you will be able to swing the sledge to pound through the front bolts if their seized like mine are.
I'm gonna leave the exhaust on for now and I borrowed a SawsAll to cut the LCA bolts this weekend


Good luck
Tony
 
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Discussion Starter #14
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR> I borrowed a SawsAll to cut the LCA bolts this weekend <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ah yes, the get a bigger hammer approach. Should fix you right up.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
You're gonna need a carbide blade for that SawsAll if the bolts are hardened. (And they should be.)
 
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Discussion Starter #16
The SawZall did the trick
I did go through 4 Cobalt blades and took a little bit of the frame off, but the project is done.

Oh by the way,if you do the LCA's remember to drop the swap bar bolts in the holes before you line up the LCA and put the rear bolt in

I have'nt lowered the beast down to test the BMR's yet.
I'm still working on the rear end which turned into a major project
Originally I was just going to replace the stock gasket with FelPro and check the bearings, but after opening it up and finding a ton of metal chips,the spider gears chewed up,holes in the thrust washers and axle bearings pitted, it was time for more beer

I should probably post this some where else but ...
I pulled the carrier out and cleaned out the whole rear end
then I installed a pair of Timken Axle saver bearings and had a new Eaton Posi overnighted
But got held up when the stock bearing's did'nt fit on the Eaton's carrier journals??
too bad because i was so close

So I've got to give West coast differentials
a call this mornin to see what's up with that
:confused:

good thing I still got a Pickup truck

 
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Discussion Starter #17
Congragulations on the LCA's. Sorry about the diff. I've been planning to open mine up in the Spring and make sure it's got the right gasket and generally OK. Now I'm scared to think what I might find. Oh well.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>But got held up when the stock bearing's did'nt fit on the Eaton's carrier journals??<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Correct. The Eaton (and also the Torsen T2 and T2R) use some beefier carrier bearings than the stock posi.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Yep,.. Dave at west coast forgot to mention that one

But he did give me the correct Timken part# and I picked up a pair locally. funny thing though, none of the local part stores carry the bearing races


So I'll look real close at what came out and see if can reuse them. I know that's a big :eek: ,but I really want this thing done.
however if their questionable I'll order and wait :rolleyes:

thanks all,...this site is a great knowledge base

Tony D
 
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