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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to get a line lock kit for the PuniSSher and I was looking for info on a good kit that's reasonably priced. I did a search and the Hurst Roll Control kit from Thunder is what was recommmended in most posts. Any one else have any alternatives out there? Any and all info is welcome.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Originally posted by PUNISSHER:
I'm looking to get a line lock kit for the PuniSSher and I was looking for info on a good kit that's reasonably priced. I did a search and the Hurst Roll Control kit from Thunder is what was recommmended in most posts. Any one else have any alternatives out there? Any and all info is welcome.
I had talked with 95 wagon, and if you know someone who can double flare, you can do the line lock kit a lot cheaper than the thunder racing kit. I have $110 in my line lock, plus I'll prolly spend $30-40 (if that) on brake lines. %5-10 for some wiring. Boom cheaper
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I remember reading when I did a SEARCH :D that a lot of the guys were saying to just build your own lines and save yourself a bunch of money. You can get just the solenoid and whatever for a lot cheaper. Only thing is you need the flaring tool, and enough confidence in yourself that you are doing it right since, well, it's your brakes.

Personally, I would just buy the Thunder Racing setup. I was gonna, but I realized I don't need ANOTHER way to burn up my tires.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
^^^ Yeah that is a disadvantage. Luckily for me, my Dad and My gf's dad knows how to double flare


Matt
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Rent the tool from autozone, buy an extra brake line and make a few practice flares. If they look good and you feel comfortable then go for it. Personally I plan on doing it myself this summer as its on the mod list to do.
SUM-760002 64.95
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So what will I need to make my own link lock?
How many brake lines?
That Solenoid of course.
And what else?
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Here is a picture of a Biondo line lock installed that one of the other guys here did:



It is $39.88 from Summit and the number is SBR-LL. The only other thing that you need to activate it is a switch. It can be mounted where you like it. I am going to do mine on my shifter since I have a T-56. Here is another idea for how to wire it:

http://impalassforum.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=23;t=001181#000000

Here is another line lock thread:

http://impalassforum.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=23;t=001194#000000
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You shouldn't need to buy any lines at all...just a couple of fittings.
And I borrowed the double flare tool from a friend. I used the write up in this thread:
Line Lock Thread
Came out lookin' like this:


One of the best things I put on the car for racin' :D

Later,
Bob T.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Daryl, that's a real quality installation pic there; very glad to hear it is NOT yours. That SS*it is scary.

Gents: ref'd pic is an excellent example of HOW NOT TO DO IT! To do so is at your own risk - and to those driving around you. Bob's pic is a MUCH BETTER representation of how the line lock should be installed; very similar to mine (mines purtier :D )

Virgil, Jake and Slim Maintenance is alive and well!

doug
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Personally I like what Gerry did on his. He used new brake line, so if he ever wants to take the car back to stock (remove solenoid) he still keeps the stock lines intact..
95 Wagon's Setup

 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No line cutting? You didn't cut one piece of [factory] tubing for the install. This I want to hear; please explain.

Where did you get the ISO flared tubing of the correct length(s)?

How did you get an ISO on one end and a double flare on the other?

Did you use ISO fittings and adapters?

Serious, I'm curious.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Originally posted by Buffman:
Personally I like what Gerry did on his. He used new brake line, so if he ever wants to take the car back to stock (remove solenoid) he still keeps the stock lines intact..
95 Wagon's Setup
I'm too cheap for that :D
If I ever remove the line lock, I'll just put a union in there...

Looks nice, 95wagon :cool:

Later,
Bob T.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Originally posted by wood95ss:
No line cutting? You didn't cut one piece of [factory] tubing for the install. This I want to hear; please explain.

Where did you get the ISO flared tubing of the correct length(s)?

How did you get an ISO on one end and a double flare on the other?

Did you use ISO fittings and adapters?

Serious, I'm curious.
Parts off the top of my head.

10mm-1.0 bubble union

Length of premade line (pick a length, doesn’t matter ) with 10mm-1.0 bubble flares.

The only reason for the above is I don’t have a bubble flaring tool as yet.

Although there are 3/16 inverted flare to 10mm-1.0 bubble adapter pipes

(part # 3043316 below)
http://www.fmsiinc.com/master-cylinder.htm

The length would possibly be an issue so I just buy a long metric and cut it in half


Two 3/16 inverted flare nuts

Two 3/16 inverted flare to 1/8 male pipe fittings


Unscrew the rear brake line on the bottom rear of the combo valve.

Chop the premade line in half.

Move the rear brake line that was in the combo valve over to the left an inch or two.

Thread the bubble union on it.
Thread the piece of premade line into the union.
Run it to the “out” port on the line lock
Cut to length and double flare with the flare nut on it.
Put into linelock with the 3/16-1/8 pipe fitting.

Put other piece of premade into the bottom of the combo valve.
Run to the “in” port of line lock cut and flare.
Assemble as above.

The “up and over” of the lines is because I like the have the out port up so any pockets of air in the valve will naturally come out during bleeding.


It would have been nice to keep it all metric but I couldn’t readily get 10mm-1.0 bubble to 1/8-pipe fittings, and as I said I don’t have a bubble flaring tool.
But then again the rear disc cars are already bastard childs with both styles on the cross axle lines.

Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Gerry, I was having trouble invisioning your set up until I read your discription. The bubble union must be hidden in your pics. Would you change any of this with your recent fitting discoveries you mentioned in your other thread?
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It would make no functional difference but if those bubble to 1/8-pipe adapters are 10-1.0
and because I got off my butt and bought an ISO flaring tool, I would make the flares at the line lock metric bubble.

Like I said, no functional difference, just nicer not to have a mish mash of fitting-flare types.
Gerry
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Originally posted by Klez:
So what is the advantage of this? :confused:
of the line lock? So you dont eat up your rear brakes, and it makes heating up the tires 10000x easier.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Originally posted by Buffman:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Klez:
So what is the advantage of this? :confused:
of the line lock? So you dont eat up your rear brakes, and it makes heating up the tires 10000x easier. </font>[/QUOTE]shoot tell me about it be4 i would power brake it and when it shifts into second it would also most turns off and now it withs into 3rd and still keeps on going with street slicks
 
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