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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If I purchase metco controlarms in the extended configuration do I have to replace my drive shaft or is there some other remedy cause if I need a new drive shaft this could cost alot more than I projected. I do want to replace the drive shaft eventually just not right now but my control arm buschings are bad so what better time to replace the factory control arms please help! Ed what's your take?

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M.OSBORNE 96 SS BBB [email protected]
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Last spring I replaced my upper and lower control arms with the J&M extended (3/4 inch). I used the stock drive shaft throughout the good months (April till November here in Michigan) and it was fine. I even drag raced it a few times. I know I'm on borrowed time and will get an extended driveshaft in this year.

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Steve
96 DGGM & 94 Caprice

 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't believe that you need to change the drive shaft. Someone is going to disagree with me but I think that the 3/4" extra length is within the tolerance on your stock shaft. Check your slip yoke and make sure that the rear transmission seal has not worn a grove into it. If it has then the transmission may leak when the seal begins to ride on the new part of the slop yoke. Both should then be changed. You can also go to a junk yard and buy a drive shaft with a longer slip yoke and then just change out the yokes. Again check that there is not a grove where the seal rides. This method also will require a new u-joint. A drive shaft from any GM that used a TH350, 700R4 or 4L60 will work.

Fletch
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have heard both suggestions, but I think that the consensus last time this issue was addressed was that if you take it easy on the stock shaft with extended arms, you should be ok. I heard that drag racing it was a bad thing to do until you get a 3/4 inch longer shaft, I've also heard many good things about the Dynotech shaft, in that it is stronger, lighter and availible in stock length or 3/4 extended length. One other thing you should be aware of is that although the extended arms will center your wheels in the sheetmetal, they will no longer be centered in the frame, the reason they do not look right, is because when the 91-92 skirted fenders were out, the wheels were centered in both the frame and the sheetmetal wheelwells. When they changed the sheetmetal, the frame under the car stayed the same, and due to the location of the door, the wheelwells had to be slightly missaligned. When you move the axle further back, it is not really a bad thing, you will still be able to fit stock rims and tires just fine, but if you're running really wide rims and tires out back, you may have an issue with clearance. Also, your car will hook up differently, you will find it easier to break the tires free when launching, because there is effectively less weight over the rear axle.

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95 9C1 LT1

[This message has been edited by Mike454SS (edited March 06, 2001).]
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Using the stock driveshaft with 3/4" longer arms, you have slightly LESS than minimum spec yoke engagement length into the tranny. That is why Hotchkis designed their "Xtend" arms to only go 1/2" longer (which keeps the driveshaft yoke IN spec) and not 3/4" longer (which actually WILL center the wheels).

That said, you'll "probably" be OK with it as long as you don't push things too much. However, the better solution is either a longer yoke or a longer driveshaft. The driveshaft will be "bolt in", but the yoke (even with new U-joints) would be considerably cheaper.



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Ed Runnion -- Santa Clara CA -- 96 BBB, Many Mods
[email protected]
www.runnion.net
ROD, HAIL, SoCalSS, ISSCA, NAISSO
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, so who can help with the part # for a new longer yoke? And who makes the strongest aftermarket u-joints nowadays? After a bunch of mods that included the Xtended Metco's, I noticed a tiny harmonic type hum at around 130 that I never remembered before, but I figured it could either be that, or tires not re-balanced and no alignment in over a year.

I don't drive up there too often, but the car just gotsta be safe at any speed. I am already eyeballing Metco's driveshaft loop as one of my "safety-only" mods.

Thanks, Bob

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'96 BBB, HPP+, SSRI, Xtended Metco, Bilsteins, F-front/(HO rear coming), stealth bolt, Transgo, Moog monster, the "missing" body bushings, SLP catbacks, 275/40 Firehawks

'95 LT-1 Fleetwood Brougham (daily driver) with all kinds of leftover Impala SS parts on it, - plus another SSRI, Hotchkis uppers & lowers (needs disc rears & posi)
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks to all that replied ditto on the request for a part # on a longer yoke that sounds like the way I will go until I can afford the Dynotech shaft thanks everyone!

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M.OSBORNE 96 SS BBB [email protected]
 
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