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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone

So I have found the 96 SS I want with only 260 Miles yes that's is correct only 260 original miles , but my concern is that it has rust on the undercarriage both lower A-arms tie rod sway bar and other areas as well . Now everything else as you can imagine is in prestine condition as it should with only 260 miles. It does look like surface rust on most parts , He is a car collector the only time he drove it was to get it inspected it's been in a climate controlled area on blocks . He is asking for 24.900 what do you guys think about the price he wants ?



Best regards
John
 

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John, Is this really a question? You answered it yourself in the first sentence. "So I have found the 96 SS I want". What I see there is so minor as not to be a concern and easily taken care of. You must have the funds so crack open the wallet. IMHO.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I just talked to the guy and he said it's just surface rust and is willing to do the rust clean up and repair and repaint the whole undercarriage free as long as I take it at the list price . But do you think it's a good price ?
 

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Ok. I'll go.

-It don't matter a spit what anyone cept the buyer values something/anything.
-Any free advise here will only be worth what you paid for it.
-That's some serious jack to be dropping on a 1/4-century old black Chevy sedan.
-The most critical factor(s) I'd be considering is exactly what's the intent/motive is for ownership. Flip it? On blocks another 1/4-century? Daily Driver? Stripped out and turned into the base for something in the 8-second range? Showing up a brother's/friend's order-of-magnitude's-more costly Carrera, Testarossa, Maybach?
-If just an investment never to drive then I'd SAS be PAYING someone to research just EXACTLY how many other like-milers it's competing against.
-And PAYING someone to do some fancy-pants projection of ROI v. any number of alternate investment(s).
-But hell if you got patterned on the Vader poster at 11 and now just came into some mad money then GDit just goferit. ;)


Let us know how it turns out.
 

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Most of the parts that are rusted are wear items and could just be replaced.(keep the originals)



The new view on collector cars is leave the rust alone. Like a coin clean up cleaning could greatly reduce the value.


If you have to repaint do it on your terms. You should pay and get warranty on the work done. If the previous owner damages the car you get it in that condition.


Low mileage cars need big wallets. There are many parts that may fail because they are not heat cycled or not run under load. Things like rear engine seals, transmission o-rings, ect. Just because the miles are low does not mean parts have not aged. They were not designed to last a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Exactly my concerns those are very low miles it's not even broke-in yet or seated for that matter. It won't be a daily driver for the most part .I would probably drive it a few times a week at best. It is a H#$$ of a find and it still has the window sticker on it ?
 

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My experience is with several "old man cars" with pre 1980 technology. That is under 100Kmiles over 30 years. Engines have leaked from all gaskets and seals. Transmissions have needed all "rubber" parts and seals. Axles have needed all seals. Shock absorbers and suspension bushing, ball joints, and tie rods needed replacement. Brake "rubber" parts could be a issue. Coolant system may need attention. Issues with "rubber " parts in the A/C system as well.

Many parts take a set position when not used and will wear very quickly when put into use.
Similar cars with more miles have had the same OEM parts that were still functional or the parts had already been replaced due to wear or age.


Great find but be ready for a high maintenance budget at the start.
 

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Hi John, it sounds like you want to drive it WAY more than the current owner.
As said better have deep pockets.

I would be worried about any rubber parts, like tires etc...all will need replacing sooner than you would hope with only 260 miles.

I would be expecting to change all fluids, steering, brake, oil, tranny, coolant, A/C....

the rust is the least of your problems.

I would skip the rust repair, tell owner what you plan to do with the car and offer 23K.

Hope it works out.
-ALF out...
 

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Ok. Perhaps a tad expensive for a sunny day driver / garage queen. But hey, if the car is genuinely showroom condition >>> AND <<< proven 100% perfect operation, then your call.



Maybe it's always ok to try for 10% drop, but remember from the seller's perspective he's already lost a buttload on 'never-realized' profit, plus the price is close to retail in '96 money, and the present value is a pitiful fraction of that. Maybe attack it from the point of asking what the rust rehab estimate is, and discounting accordingly, and pull on his heartstrings to spot you for enough to get those deathtrap tires replaced if they're originals - which sounds like what Angelo is driving at too. At the $$$ we're at, more important than a price discount for me is getting a 10-day warranty on 'major mechanical' mysteriously appearing (slipping tranny, leaky axles / pinion, oil drips, CELs). Then do a roadtrip and run the p out of it.
 

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OP, my $.02

Its a double edge sword. On one side you have a new/original SS with 250 mi on it which is very rare. On the other you have every rubber, foam part, seals that have "aged" and in some cases more than if the car had 100k mi on it.

At the very least all fluids need replacing as do the tires and then whatever raises its hand in need of attention. That surface rust is nothing, most will wipe off or with a scotch brite pad but that will leave marks. Painting would restore it "if" done correctly

The value of this car is because it is basically zero miles and in "as made" condition so it would need to remain in that condition for it to retain the asking $.

The 100-5k mi 96 SS I see at auction go for low 20's-25k $. In another 25 years they will be worth even more

I have turned down two offers for 25k for my car. Yeah that is strong money but it would cost double that to make another car exactly as mine is now. Fortunately I have enough $ I don't need to sell it or my other collector car. I view them both as money in the bank. Both are insured for agreed value and are in my trust should I ever go before selling them

You can buy a very clean stock 96 SS for 1/2 the $ of this one. Will it have 75-150k mi on it, yes but you can drive it. You could spend the extra 12-15k on a 10-15k solid SS and then have one as new looking as this one

If you want a "new" 96 SS then buy this one but expect to spend $ bring it back to DD ability
 

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That car was stored in a moist area for a bit. Most of those rusty parts wee not well painted new or had no finish at all so they rusted. I would not buy any low mile car or any of these cars in today's time. unless it was free. That car will need everything if you drive it. I replaced so much on a low mile, now 50k mile car. So many parts you cannot buy new anymore its pointless. But then again its not my money. Its realty "End times" for these cars because just no new parts are available. Buying a car is only worth it if repairs and fixes were already done to it.



Oh I think at 50k the fuel pump is failing on mine, All sick noises :) Think I found a New Old stock one for $30. Whole AC had to be done, Did the whole braking system. Every hose Engine gaskets.
 

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Anyone want to speculate what dented the frame by the idler arm?
Looks like a tow guy maybe hooked into the frame and pulled it out I used to do that type of damage when I did not care about the vehicle. Oh well. They should use the holes in the frame further back. If that car was on a hauler a transport guy could of used that hole to squash the car down on the hauler for height clearance. I dunno why so many still use chains to tighten down the cars , wheel straps are probably safer for less vehicle damage.
 

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Floor boards are good. I say send it.

That being said...that's some serious coin for a B-Body. I can't say I've ever seen one sell so high. There's tons on ebay with ridiculous prices, and they've been there for a long time.

I assume this was the DCM at carlisle?
 

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Haha Of course. But my responses aren't. I sure don't wanna rain on any guy's parade with apparently sufficient funds to expend on a deal like that. Hell, there's chaps who blow $thousands on some gold-plated celebrity-named sneakers, .... and then wear them to pickup games. But, it sure seems most guys like me (I?) who've had one of these tubs since new think the same way as you and sorta shake our heads at all the seeming more attractive alternate uses for that much money. Me? I'd just keep mine, add a blower, "re-upgraded" tranny, new rear, and finally replace the driver's seat cover with the screwdriver gash in it, and put all the rest into a wrecked XLR for an LS- swap. So see, diffrant strokes for diffrant fokes.


What you're referring to has got to be the absolute best approach I'd take in the OP's situation to canvas the comps in the market. Just 1.let it be known what you're hunting for and 2. how deep your pocket, and then 3.let interested parties chime in by PM. There's some real hi-performing cherries out there from what I've seen on the forum.
 
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