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Lower Control Arms & Sway Bars - Upgrades

6112 Views 59 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Johnp410
I have been looking at Lower control arms and sway bars to try and control some of the body roll and rear end noise in my car. I have FE2 suspension (OEM) and was looking at putting beefier rear and front sway bars in the vehicle. Read on some old forum posts that a fat rear bar will likely crack the original lower control arms so now I am looking at those as well.

UMI seems to be a great place to get LCAs from... I did see that new POLY bushes will make the car ride stiff compared to the OEM rubber ones. Is this the case? I'm looking to keep the ride as squishy as possible, but remove some sway and roll in turns/corners.

Anyone have any experience with the standard UMI bars? What about the Roto joints? Would those make the car ride more smoothly compared to 2 POLY bushings? Links below to see what I am talking about. The Roto joints look really interesting, but can't find much about just a streetable car that's driven gently most of the time.

Also, it's been recommended that I check out BMR sway bars - their rear bar is fat and should really control the back end pretty well. Front bar is smaller, but the set would probably even the car out well (replace both).

Thanks for your thoughtful advice!
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Although everyone refers to it in regards to sway bar stiffness ( vertical as you say ) the steering box and linkage DO put a lot side to side bending force into the left rail.
Although unit body with bolt in crossmember , my mothers 85 Camaro popped welds and cracked the rail from steering input.
After repairing, I put in the "export brace" as it was called to tie the rails together.
As you say , for a brace to measurably help the frame rails deal with sway bar inputs it would have to be pretty tall.
Or weld in an upper and lower with a triangulation diagonal.
If you can't find triangulation in something, it ain't doin much.
You need to look at something and picture the lines of force ,so to speak.

My brace, its main puroose is the relocate the shorter arm sway bar back for link alignment and to some extent helping with side to side.
I also seam welded the front rails when the new frame went in .
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Solid body mounts,and braces from front rails to firewall would do wonders for the sway bar.
Also turn my car into something it is not
Think you will find the housing bushes are different.
Pre metric, they all were the same but when the other 6 got largers with 14mm hardware, the diff upper didn't
you might have misinterpereted my post.
At one point in this susps life span all 8 bushings were interchangeble.
When they became metric in later years, the housing mounted bushing did not change.
Then 6 bushes were the same , two were not.
Look at the hardware on our cars.
The bolts in the housing bushings are smaller dia than the rest.
Can't tell you the exact year change.
All 91-96 though, 14mm in 6 postions ,smaller dia in top housing.
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You want lube lines , then drag a hack saw blade across the hole in about 4 places.
Better yet drill the bolt and the sleeve and put a zerk fitting in .
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