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Hey everybody,

My 15 year old LT1 style starter recently took a dump on my way home from a track day at Barber Motorsports Park.

I've always had it in the back of my mind that I'd upgrade to an LT4 style starter when this one took a dump, and curious what the best options are for brands/suppliers? Most of the old LT4 starter threads I found on here are pretty dated. I understand I may need to free up a little extra positive battery cable length to reach the shorter starter, and may need longer bolts as well?

Looks like reman'd Corvette starters are around $130 from Autozone, so I poked around a bit on Jegs and found this guy:


Anybody use anything like that? Listed for fitting '94 LTx Vette. A new unit at that pricing is attractive for sure.
 

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It's a small block chevy, 153 tooth flywheel I believe? Why not this one for half the cost? My local electrical rebuilder just buys these and installs them.
 

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Autozone came with a lifetime warranty when I bought my Vette starter from them, plus they are nation wide. I've bought 2 from them and replaced 1 under warranty after about 6 years of daily use under an engine that didn't really hold oil toward the end.

Edit: Flipping the power cable hold down at the cross member frees up the needed slack on stock wires although it's still tight. Upgrading the battery wires with new like the ones from Innovative Wiring (Gary) they come with a little extra length just for this purpose.

-Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's a small block chevy, 153 tooth flywheel I believe? Why not this one for half the cost? My local electrical rebuilder just buys these and installs them.
I guess that's certainly an option if your guy has had good luck with them.
Prefer new personally. Not huge difference in prices.1996 CHEVROLET CORVETTE 5.7L V8 Starter Motor | RockAuto
Tom, which one would be your pick of the new units?
Autozone came with a lifetime warranty when I bought my Vette starter from them, plus they are nation wide. I've bought 2 from them and replaced 1 under warranty after about 6 years of daily use under an engine that didn't really hold oil toward the end.

Edit: Flipping the power cable hold down at the cross member frees up the needed slack on stock wires although it's still tight. Upgrading the battery wires with new like the ones from Innovative Wiring (Gary) they come with a little extra length just for this purpose.

-Brian
Yeah I read a few old threads with folks going the Autozone route for the lifetime nationwide warranty, but I was surprised to see it's one of most expensive options I've seen, ballpark of $130 for a reman, and like $180 for new. I'm not super duper worried about starter failure, as I can bump start the car in a pinch (T56) , but $180 isn't awful for a lifetime warranty either, especially since uhhhh, my motor may be leaking a decent amount of oil as well :oops:

Thanks for the tip on the wires. I don't think I'll be replacing them with Gary's unless I find they're damaged in some way, or the cable is too tight for my peace of mind.
 

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One other thought - starters are dog simple. It sounds like your solenoid was sticking. My local rebuilder says that failures like this are often caused by motor oil leaks gumming up the works. If you're adventurous, just take the starter apart and clean everything real good, put just a little grease where needed, and reassemble it, and it might work fine.
 

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Grew weary of AutoZone ,and their "Lifetime " garbage that needed replaced over ,and over again. Don't care if it is free. My time isn't free.The LT4 starter is much smaller ,giving much better access to plugs ,wires ,etc... Not sure which I went with, Guessing the Remy (new). Compared to re-man AZ? Not even a close call...
 

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Fortunately you will always be able to "bump start" so there's no point in carrying a spare ,or even worrying about it. I've had one (factory starter) re-built by a local rebuilder that was perfectly fine when I decided to replace w/LT4 starter for the gobs of additional space for access ,and/or air circulation at the very least.
 

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I picked up the Pure Energy new 6470SN starter for 96 5.7 caprice from rockauto for the 91 a few years back. Nice solid unit. Once the car is warmed up, starting is like half a revolution like the 95. Never did that with the old starter.

Just looked, is like 67 bucks
 

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At the time I put the first one in my Impala it was my only car and I was a college student. The warranty was more critical back then.

-Brian
 

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Back several years ago when autozone was the place to get the "Vette" starter they were new and made by Denso. What I have had since then

I just bought a Remy from RA (gear reduction) for my 67 Camaro as the new motor has higher compression than the 327 did and the stock starter was sloooow

This is a X refrence chart for part # for the gear reduction type
 

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Had no idea there were so many different ones for small block Chevrolet.
 

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Wow that's a great resource. That explains the knurling on the starter bolts - it's for location purposes. It makes me wonder if people who destroy multiple starters have substituted regular bolts.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
One other thought - starters are dog simple. It sounds like your solenoid was sticking. My local rebuilder says that failures like this are often caused by motor oil leaks gumming up the works. If you're adventurous, just take the starter apart and clean everything real good, put just a little grease where needed, and reassemble it, and it might work fine.
This likely isn't untrue for my starter, haha. I'll definitely give cleaning it out a shot, and keep for a spare, but I'd like to get something smaller and lighter on there anyway, because racecar.
Fortunately you will always be able to "bump start" so there's no point in carrying a spare ,or even worrying about it. I've had one (factory starter) re-built by a local rebuilder that was perfectly fine when I decided to replace w/LT4 starter for the gobs of additional space for access ,and/or air circulation at the very least.
To some degree I'd agree IF I have an inkling that my starter may be acting up and I have the opportunity to park strategically. The car is too heavy/brake pads too warped after a track day to get up to bump start speed by myself on flat pavement.

I do think I'll opt for the Remy branded new unit to start.

Thanks for all the input guys!
 

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Wow that's a great resource. That explains the knurling on the starter bolts - it's for location purposes. It makes me wonder if people who destroy multiple starters have substituted regular bolts.
The Remy starter, GR, I just bought included new mounting bolts that were knurled. Bolt heads are metric though

IIRC the Denso one I bought several years ago did not include new bolts and I just re-used my stock ones on the SS

Both starters were plug & play. I did not experience and wire length issues

While booth my SBC are 29 years apart (67 & 96)...it appears they can use the same starter....although the block in my 67 Camaro is a 85 or newer GM 350 truck block that is a native 4 bolt main with forged GM crank. Its a Blueprint Engines 355
 

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Personally if you have access to a local rebuilder, I'd go that route. I've been fortunate to find mom and pop rebuilders locally that do a great job, for cheaper than the cost of anywhere else. I only ever had one problem, with a solenoid stuck on, and he fixed it the same day. Never had another problem with any of my alternators or starters. In fact, the GM CS144 alternator's biggest weakness is the front and rear bearings; a local rebuilder can replace those in 30 minutes or less. BTW do NOT use chynesium bearings here, you'll be sorry.
 

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Unfortunately for me what were great rebuild shops are long gone. With that said the cost difference of those shops vs buying a new starter, especially from discount places like rock auto, that price difference is not much if at all.

However a stock starter will never have the cranking power of a gear reduction type starter. Motors making more than stock compression really benefit from a GR type starters
 

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True, but make sure to clarify that the stock LT1 starter IS a gear reduction starter. I've got an old one here that's been oiled on for 20 years; I'm going to take it apart soon and post pics.
 

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To note , a PLANETARY reduction starter so the armature and pinion are in line.

Lots of plastic inside where one doesn't need plastic .
 
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