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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The Caretaker has already supplied some information to me, but I thought I might be able to get some specifics:

I have a 1969 Chevrolet Caprice with a 350. I plan to add a power booster to add a bit more stopping power to my brake system. I will not be converting to disks.
My questions:
I. Will I need a different master cylinder for the conversion, or are the parts for manual and power the same? [EDIT: I have attempted to find info on this, but all of the manufacturers I've contacted couldn't give me a straight answer.]
II. Is a proportioning valve necessary, or, if a cylinder/booster set up is bought, will it come with one?
III. Will I need any extra parts for the job? Brake pedal hardware, new lines, etc. [EDIT: The Caretaker has told me to watch the linkage of the brake pedal itself. Any other ides?]
Other brake questions:
i. What are the pros and cons of bonded and riveted pads?
ii. What are the pros and cons of finned brake drums?
iii. Would I benefit from splurging on a power booster with 11" diameter instead of a 'stock' one with 9" diameter, and if so, by how much? (Relative of course)
Thank you!
 

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The Caretaker has already supplied some information to me, but I thought I might be able to get some specifics:

I have a 1969 Chevrolet Caprice with a 350. I plan to add a power booster to add a bit more stopping power to my brake system. I will not be converting to disks.
My questions:
I. Will I need a different master cylinder for the conversion, or are the parts for manual and power the same? [EDIT: I have attempted to find info on this, but all of the manufacturers I've contacted couldn't give me a straight answer.]
I would say the original mc can be used. you might peruse online parts places like az, oreillies etc and see if there were more than one mc offered for drum brake cars
II. Is a proportioning valve necessary, or, if a cylinder/booster set up is bought, will it come with one?
a proportional valve isnt needed with an all drum system, yours probably has a pressure differential valve for the brake warning light but that is a different function.
III. Will I need any extra parts for the job? Brake pedal hardware, new lines, etc. [EDIT: The Caretaker has told me to watch the linkage of the brake pedal itself. Any other ides?]
yes, you have to have some freeplay at the pedal link and also the new booster has to allow the mc piston to return completely
Other brake questions:
i. What are the pros and cons of bonded and riveted pads?
back in the day, performance shoes were riveted but tended to squeak more. nowadays with technology advances there might not be a performance difference with bonded. lining type is probably the biggest factor
ii. What are the pros and cons of finned brake drums?
looks, thats it. people used to cut out part of the backing plate and weld steel mesh over the openings to help cool the brakes.
iii. Would I benefit from splurging on a power booster with 11" diameter instead of a 'stock' one with 9" diameter, and if so, by how much? (Relative of course)
Thank you!
I would be leery of bigger than stock, you might wind up with super sensitive brakes that lock up with small inputs at slow speeds

one other thing when you install new shoes.
for best performance and reduced chance of glazing the shoes, have the new shoes arced to the drums.
I dont know if the corner napa can still do that but commercial brake wholesalers with their own machine shop should be able to.
bold are my answers.
 

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your welcome, good luck with the mod!
 
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