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I'm pretty sure that I'm in the $10K ballpark. Big ticket items:

Freshning/machining (for the shaft mounted rockers) the heads (already owned) plus new custom length Valves and Valve Springs about $1600

Shaft Mounted Rockers about $800
KW
I'm a rookie compared to you guy's as far as quench, flow number's and such, But I did want to point out to other rookie's & newbie's as to WHERE K.W. put his money....$2400....on heads he already owned ! Those shaft rocker set-up ain't cheap, but they eliminate MOST of the parasitc (sp) drag that the stock SB chevy is known for. I'd bet money that they are easily worth double digit HP over the stock set-up.

As you were, Gentlemen.
 

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You guys priced that 18* crap??? Yikes! From the heads, to the intake, to the shaft mounted rockers. $$$$$$$$$
You answered this yourself.

If you're starting from scratch, this setup would probably offer more bang for the buck.
Are 18* heads more expensive to top of the line 23* heads?
When buying new, an 18* intake cost right about as much as a high end 23* intake. Same for the rest of the parts in an engine.
 

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Are 18* heads more expensive to top of the line 23* heads?
When buying new, an 18* intake cost right about as much as a high end 23* intake. Same for the rest of the parts in an engine.
You would also need different pistons (most of the time), custom headers, offset shaft-mount rockers and lifters....
 

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If you are starting with a fresh motor build then I think the answer is the cost is not much more than your standard HP build for a high end motor. The cost is justified when you hit the wall in engine building and there is nothing else you can do. I'm with Mike on trying to get everything you can out of stuff before moving on, it's just more fun and rewarding in knowledge. It makes you think!! The cost is also justifed at that point by the amount of power you gain.

Following the same logic I can't understand why so many 383's are build when a 409 cost the same. The only difference is notching the blocks for the rods to clear and I have never hit water yet with an LT iron block. Really I do know the answer to that question and it's because a 3.75 crank will bolt in without notches, I don't know why notching blocks scares people. I have never built a 383 to date, every thing that comes from me has been a 409 because it was cheap, almost free, extra torque and HP over the 383's.

Way off topic and I have to stop but good sharing on the block issues including LS engines. I still think too many people think they can bolt an LS engine in their car and make big power they see in the mags they read. I can already smell the antifreeze coming out of the heads!!
 

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I can already smell the antifreeze coming out of the heads!!
Makes me think of a common question on The Turbo Forums...

When some guy is posting about is high HP LS series build he often gets asked: "Is it pushing water?" cwm5
 

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Following the same logic I can't understand why so many 383's are build when a 409 cost the same. The only difference is notching the blocks for the rods to clear and I have never hit water yet with an LT iron block. Really I do know the answer to that question and it's because a 3.75 crank will bolt in without notches, I don't know why notching blocks scares people. I have never built a 383 to date, every thing that comes from me has been a 409 because it was cheap, almost free, extra torque and HP over the 383's.
A 383 can be built with off-the-shelf parts without compromising compression ratio, etc. It has a higher reliability than a 408 due to a slower piston speed, more static piston height as well as reduced cylinder side load.
 

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Way off topic and I have to stop but good sharing on the block issues including LS engines. I still think too many people think they can bolt an LS engine in their car and make big power they see in the mags they read. I can already smell the antifreeze coming out of the heads!!
I have an LS1 in my Mazda with lightly ported heads and a small cam (220* intake duration) and it makes as much power at the wheels a 383 LT4 stroker with LE3 heads and a solid roller cam.

Granted, the drivetrain losses are not the same between an RX7 and a Caprice. But considering the huge cost difference between the engines, LS1 is a much better deal. Now a 6.2L LSx with L92/LS3 heads is a whole different ballgame. I do not see any reason for building an 18* headed gen-1/2 SBC unless you are racing in a specific class.
 

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I have an LS1 in my Mazda with lightly ported heads and a small cam (220* intake duration) and it makes as much power at the wheels a 383 LT4 stroker with LE3 heads and a solid roller cam.

Granted, the drivetrain losses are not the same between an RX7 and a Caprice. But considering the huge cost difference between the engines, LS1 is a much better deal. Now a 6.2L LSx with L92/LS3 heads is a whole different ballgame. I do not see any reason for building an 18* headed gen-1/2 SBC unless you are racing in a specific class.
Sooo after I blow the doors off these lsx turbo implals on the forum with my LT1, then what???
 

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Sooo after I blow the doors off these lsx turbo implals on the forum with my LT1, then what???
Do it!!!! THEN talk about it.

Not the other way around cwm1
 

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Sooo after I blow the doors off these lsx turbo implals on the forum with my LT1, then what???
Numerous people on the forum tried to build a turboed LT1 impala. Most of them never finished it or had issues and sold the car. Good luck with that.
 

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Ram Air 383

A 383 can be built with off-the-shelf parts without compromising compression ratio, etc. It has a higher reliability than a 408 due to a slower piston speed, more static piston height as well as reduced cylinder side load.


I'll give you the side loads are greater but that statement is ture when you look at a 383 from a 350? You can build a 409 with a piston kit that is a shelf item from Wiesco, crank from about anyone and rods as long as 5.85 from several different companies. Even the compression ratio is in the 10's on these combo's. A 409 is as much a kit as a 383 if you check. The level of the parts is what changes what this or any motor costs. I have seen little if any cost difference unless you buy the cheapest 383 kits that are out there and you get what you pay for. For a good quality engine a 383 is the same as a 409.

I'm not saying your wrong if you go cheap but not when you use quality parts that could live if you want to use a power added down the road.
 

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