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Discussion Starter #41
I'll be happy to provide vacuum gauge readings soon. I have just driven the car a few miles away, then took an idle reading ...then drove the car home and took an idle reading. I had hoped to have recorded data while driving but it failed to record, so I will post the idle readings and get back in the car.

Regarding WOT, can I do this while the car is in neutral?

OBD2_20200730_Idle1&2.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
I hope this is helpful, and isn't too confusing. I drove the car for a few minutes, and had it above 3000 rpm for a short spurt up a hill. The data also shows the period of time when I was coasting down the hill. There is a throttle position row that should capture what point of the drive the reading is coming from. I'll bet Excel isn't the optimal way to view these readings, but it's all I know. I am linking to a spreadsheet of all the readings, and uploading to this post a jpeg of a select excerpt. You can see which readings made the excerpt by looking at the column headings.

Side note, as I was making my way home, I smelled a faint smell of something burning ...like plastic. Very faint. It came and went, and came.

There are no viruses in this Excel file. If you would like me to manipulate these figures to make them more readable, let me know. FYI, it seems that the OBD2 values are not all taken simultaneously for every sensor. If you look at the "Seconds" column in the "Data" tab you'll see that they are taken very close together, but not at the exact same instant. I have assumed the OBD module voltage reading to kick off each reading#. So, every value falls between one OBD module voltage reading and the subsequent OBD module voltage reading.

******I have updated these files as of 10:26PM on 7/30/2020.


OBD2_20200730_Driving_excerpt_2.jpg
 

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Your post appears to show a WOT run, so that's good. It does not show your engine off MAP, so I'm just going to go with sea-level . I cut out a lot of the extra stuff to make this easier to read the good stuff. At idle, you are showing 37 kpa. If accurate, that's a bit low. Should be between 40-50. Look at what happens to your LTFT on bank 2 at 100% throttle - it cleans up. Go back to idle/decel, and it goes to **** again. Your MAF @ idle is also a bit low at 7.10 g/sec, but without looking at an actual graph of it over time, nobody can be sure. If it is actually low, then that, coupled with the low MAP at idle, and the LTFT's cleaning up at WOT point to a vacuum leak. As soon as your car goes into more of a vacuum state, bank 2 starts dumping in fuel because something on bank 2 is creating a lot more oxygen in the burn. The only way to introduce more oxygen is to add air.
194807

Adding air is only done in a handful of ways: throttle, exhaust leak, intake leak, and dead injector are the top 4. Blown rings or a valvetrain issue would present as an intake leak, too, but a compression test would quickly determine if that were the case. Exhaust leak would cause trims to go to hell on one side, but would not cause a cylinder specific miss, nor lower your intake pressure. Dead injector would read as more 02 in the mix, and would also cause a dead cyl, but it probably would not clean up at WOT. It might, if your PCM is able to toss enough fuel at the other 3 cylinders during WOT to compensate, but I think you'd still see a lean condition in a WOT log.

Edit: you mentioned the burning smell. I initially thought that could be a plug lead grounding out, which would make sense given that this all started after a mechanic worked on the front of the engine. However, were it a bad plug lead, I would think the log would show as a rich condition on bank 2 and not lean. Rich = the PCM is still firing the injector but the fuel isn't burning. Gets dumped into the exhaust, read by the 02 as rich, PCM pulls fuel out. Your PCM isn't pulling fuel, it's adding as much as it can at idle.

Get the compression tester, fuel pressure tester, and a vacuum gauge and see what you see. If those three tests come back as good, then start looking at injectors and spark.
 
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Edit: All three of those devices (compression, fuel, and vac testers) are available at Autozone for either a $0 rental or $15 for the vac gauge.
 
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Discussion Starter #45
Your post appears to show a WOT run, so that's good. It does not show your engine off MAP, so I'm just going to go with sea-level . I cut out a lot of the extra stuff to make this easier to read the good stuff. At idle, you are showing 37 kpa. If accurate, that's a bit low. Should be between 40-50. Look at what happens to your LTFT on bank 2 at 100% throttle - it cleans up. Go back to idle/decel, and it goes to **** again. Your MAF @ idle is also a bit low at 7.10 g/sec, but without looking at an actual graph of it over time, nobody can be sure. If it is actually low, then that, coupled with the low MAP at idle, and the LTFT's cleaning up at WOT point to a vacuum leak. As soon as your car goes into more of a vacuum state, bank 2 starts dumping in fuel because something on bank 2 is creating a lot more oxygen in the burn. The only way to introduce more oxygen is to add air.
View attachment 194807
Adding air is only done in a handful of ways: throttle, exhaust leak, intake leak, and dead injector are the top 4. Blown rings or a valvetrain issue would present as an intake leak, too, but a compression test would quickly determine if that were the case. Exhaust leak would cause trims to go to hell on one side, but would not cause a cylinder specific miss, nor lower your intake pressure. Dead injector would read as more 02 in the mix, and would also cause a dead cyl, but it probably would not clean up at WOT. It might, if your PCM is able to toss enough fuel at the other 3 cylinders during WOT to compensate, but I think you'd still see a lean condition in a WOT log.

Edit: you mentioned the burning smell. I initially thought that could be a plug lead grounding out, which would make sense given that this all started after a mechanic worked on the front of the engine. However, were it a bad plug lead, I would think the log would show as a rich condition on bank 2 and not lean. Rich = the PCM is still firing the injector but the fuel isn't burning. Gets dumped into the exhaust, read by the 02 as rich, PCM pulls fuel out. Your PCM isn't pulling fuel, it's adding as much as it can at idle.

Get the compression tester, fuel pressure tester, and a vacuum gauge and see what you see. If those three tests come back as good, then start looking at injectors and spark.
I just plugged in the reader and turned the ignition to On, and the kPa was 100. According to Find altitude of an address - AdvancedConverter I am at 787 ft altitude, and I drove up the hill to about 1500. The open throttle was probably in the 1000-1200 range.

Here are a couple of graphs. The first image is the entire drive, and the second one zooms in on the WOT portion and the deceleration. I'll get those other readings soon. Thank you so much for taking the time to help me with this.

Edit: Both mechanics told me the compression was good, and I have on my invoice from mechanic #1 that all cylinders tested at 175psi.

1.jpg 2.jpg
 

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The likelihood of all 8 cylinders testing 175 PSI is exactly nil. Its impossible.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
The likelihood of all 8 cylinders testing 175 PSI is exactly nil. Its impossible.
I've reached out to a family friend who is going to assist me with some tests. It'll be a few days until I'm back with results, but I should have some info soon.

I was taking with a neighbor yesterday who said he once had a similar issue and the cause ended up being a dirty MAF sensor. My K&N was absolutely filthy when this began (it's the full K&N intake system, with the arm). I have since noticed the filth and properly cleaned and oiled the filter, good as new (used the K&N cleaning kit). However, if the sensor inside was dirty, it's still dirty. Any chance that's the cause?
 

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Buy this and use exactly as directed, do not touch the MAF:


"Proven to gain 4 to 10 HP at the wheels" :ROFLMAO::rolleyes::mad:

What other mods have you done? Putting this info in your signature would help us help you.

Those 2 techs you saw should have seen a dirty MAF and cleaned it or done it regardless. Normal PM.

It is easy to over oil a K&N, probably why your MAF is dirty but unlikely the cause of your problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Buy this and use exactly as directed, do not touch the MAF:


"Proven to gain 4 to 10 HP at the wheels" :ROFLMAO::rolleyes::mad:

What other mods have you done? Putting this info in your signature would help us help you.

Those 2 techs you saw should have seen a dirty MAF and cleaned it or done it regardless. Normal PM.

It is easy to over oil a K&N, probably why your MAF is dirty but unlikely the cause of your problem.
I never said the MAF was dirty. Signature updated with info.
 
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