Your post appears to show a WOT run, so that's good. It does not show your engine off MAP, so I'm just going to go with sea-level . I cut out a lot of the extra stuff to make this easier to read the good stuff. At idle, you are showing 37 kpa. If accurate, that's a bit low. Should be between 40-50. Look at what happens to your LTFT on bank 2 at 100% throttle - it cleans up. Go back to idle/decel, and it goes to **** again. Your MAF @ idle is also a bit low at 7.10 g/sec, but without looking at an actual graph of it over time, nobody can be sure. If it is actually low, then that, coupled with the low MAP at idle, and the LTFT's cleaning up at WOT point to a vacuum leak. As soon as your car goes into more of a vacuum state, bank 2 starts dumping in fuel because something on bank 2 is creating a lot more oxygen in the burn. The only way to introduce more oxygen is to add air.
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Adding air is only done in a handful of ways: throttle, exhaust leak, intake leak, and dead injector are the top 4. Blown rings or a valvetrain issue would present as an intake leak, too, but a compression test would quickly determine if that were the case. Exhaust leak would cause trims to go to hell on one side, but would not cause a cylinder specific miss, nor lower your intake pressure. Dead injector would read as more 02 in the mix, and would also cause a dead cyl, but it probably would not clean up at WOT. It might, if your PCM is able to toss enough fuel at the other 3 cylinders during WOT to compensate, but I think you'd still see a lean condition in a WOT log.
Edit: you mentioned the burning smell. I initially thought that could be a plug lead grounding out, which would make sense given that this all started after a mechanic worked on the front of the engine. However, were it a bad plug lead, I would think the log would show as a rich condition on bank 2 and not lean. Rich = the PCM is still firing the injector but the fuel isn't burning. Gets dumped into the exhaust, read by the 02 as rich, PCM pulls fuel out. Your PCM isn't pulling fuel, it's adding as much as it can at idle.
Get the compression tester, fuel pressure tester, and a vacuum gauge and see what you see. If those three tests come back as good, then start looking at injectors and spark.