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http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/alte...in-103610.html

Micro ballons
http://www.heatshield-r20.com/

Interesting nonetheless...

These sources and articles discuss the composition of micro balloons (as used in RTV/RC crafts) mixed with house paint to coat materials for sound and heat shield. Their comparison was to that of LizardSkin and various other forms of liquid sound/heat deadener. I don't have the funds for experimenting but am looking to coat or sound deaden my floor and trunk while working on my interior.

Any further insight from the audiophiles here are definitely welcomed. I am in no way an expert on the subject matter. It was metioned here years ago to just get the Home Depot/Lowe's brand heat shield or something of the sort. I am not looking to drop Dynomat money so since we lost a lot of this info can someone explain and expand on the sound deadening topic???

Gracious Hil
 

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Grace Ice and Water Shield was the low budget subsitute that people talked about. The only downside seemed to be that it smells like tar for a while. I didn't use the stuff myself, just read the threads, so take the info for what it's worth.
 

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There are vibration dampeners, which "deaden" the harmonics of the body panels. Then there are noise barriers, that keep outside noises (road noise, wind noise, exhaust noise) from coming in.

People building mega bass thumping stereo systems tend to use more vibration dampener than noise barriers and for good reason. The metal panels of the car are actually absorbing the bass and turning it into a differant kind of noise. From what Ive read on sound deadening forums, it seems many people just want a quiet inside of the car, *** a brand new luxery car or something. They spend a bunch of money of vibration dampers and are dissappointed with the results.

Most people would have more desireable results if they use more barrier than dampener. Dampener is only really needed in the middle of the large flat panels and near vibration prone areas. Barrier should be used as full coverage as possible and expense allows. Barrier if attached to, or pressed up against the body panels will somewhat act as a dampener itself (some more so, some less, depending on the barrier). Its just not as good of one as true vibration dampener.

On my project I want extreme noise elimination. I want it to ride quieter than a luxery car.
Thats why Im way overdoing it with both dampener and barrier :D

Im using www.secondskinaudio.com products, they have a small forum which has been helpful.

This is their damplifier pro, it is a butyl rubber adhesive will a thick foil backing.

I went with about 120% coverage on the floorboard (single layer in most spots, two in a few, edges overlapping)





I think the rear deck is major tuning fork on our cars, its really flexible and probably steals alot of lower frequency sound from our speakers mounted to it.



I dont think the roof is as major a vibration area on B-bodys as it is on many lesser automobiles



After the damplifier pro, I used second skins spectrum liquid deadner. It is alos a vibration dampener. If you can only afford one type, everyone recommends damplifer over the spectrum, but both work in conjunction somewhat.

Most areas are about 2 credit cards thick







The underside got it too. Second Skin says you can actually use it as a undercoating. It is very similar to 3M undercoating spray but doesnt dry as hard. Im putting the 3M spray over top of the spectrum on the underside to act as a little more protection from the elements.




 

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Back on the inside I am using Second skins Luxery Liner Pro (LLP) for a sound barrier. It is a vinyl backed closed cell foam.

This stuff is THICK and HEAVY



The idea with a barrier is to have as few holes and seams as possible. Those you do have you can seal up with tape or overlap (hard to do with something as thick as LLP).







I took pieces of scraps and cut-off and stuffed them in any areas along the seams where the deadening did not perfectly match up, as can be seen in this photo below



Over top of the LLP I will use some of the "jute" factory type sound barrier (if it will fit!)

This is pretty much as far as I have gotten on the sound eliminating portion of the project so far. I havent done the doors or the trunk yet. But they will be done in a similar manner. The doors are a MAJOR area for noise AND viberation. The outsides of the wheel wells will be hit with the spectrum liquid deadner as well.
 

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Grace Ice and Water Shield was the low budget subsitute that people talked about. The only downside seemed to be that it smells like tar for a while. I didn't use the stuff myself, just read the threads, so take the info for what it's worth.
I have used it and that sums it up. Only smells for a week or so.
 

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HOW MUCH DID THIS SET-U BACK? THIS IS NICELY DONE!
I bought it all at differant times as money allowed. I bought both the spectrum and the damplifier pro when second skin had specials on it. Currently I am a little under 1000 bucks in the 3 products after shipping (this stuff is heavy). With probably another 500 to go to complete the doors and trunk.

I what Ive done so far, I have used 80 sq ft of Damplifier pro, about 2-3 gallons of Spectrum, and six sheets of Luxery Liner Pro.

I did look for cheaper alternatives, found a couple of "maybes". The tar like products have a bad reputation, first with the smell, then the adhesiveness (sometimes get hot and peel off verticle and inclined surfaces), then ultimately with them getting hard and not doing their job as well as they used to. I looked and looked for a cheaper version of luxery liner pro, even thought about making my own, but in the end the hassle and minimal savings didnt seem to be worth it when comparing to a proven product.


For someone who doesnt want to spend as much money, I would suggest putting the majority of the money into Luxery Liner Pro. Dont use as much damplifier and wouldnt use the liquid deadener . Combine that with replacing door seals, hunting down squeaks and rattles and using preexisting factory barriers (fleetwoods have a vinyl like material under the door panel, civilian caprices have a type of barrier inside the enginebay on the firewall, double up the "jute" in areas where it will fit).
 

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NASA called they said they need your help on the shuttle
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yea I read up on that site too. I just don't have $400 to drop just yet on deadener or dampener. I shall read a little further though. Any other insight would be greatly appreciated.
 

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How'd this turn out?
 

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Different Question Regarding Deadening
I put down 50sf of FatMat with my new carpet in the SS, and bought another 50sf roll for the doors and rearseat/quarters/b-pillars.

I see Fuzzcar's meticulous install for the rear seatback area and all appear to cover only the gussets leaving the voids open to the trunk. Intuition tells me blanketing the whole backseat area would create more of a sealing membrane for better sound-temperature insulation. Then again, what I know of the topic is limited to what I've read on some pretty good posts here.

My question is whether it's advisable to slap the Fat Mat (or something else for just that open area) across the entire rearseat to seal off the trunk, or not, considering the fact that closing off ventilation to the trunk and turning it into a sealed chamber could cause more moisture/harmonics problems than it solves.
 

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I know I'm digging this up from long ago.

Different Question Regarding Deadening
I put down 50sf of FatMat with my new carpet in the SS, and bought another 50sf roll for the doors and rearseat/quarters/b-pillars.

I see Fuzzcar's meticulous install for the rear seatback area and all appear to cover only the gussets leaving the voids open to the trunk. Intuition tells me blanketing the whole backseat area would create more of a sealing membrane for better sound-temperature insulation. Then again, what I know of the topic is limited to what I've read on some pretty good posts here.

My question is whether it's advisable to slap the Fat Mat (or something else for just that open area) across the entire rearseat to seal off the trunk, or not, considering the fact that closing off ventilation to the trunk and turning it into a sealed chamber could cause more moisture/harmonics problems than it solves.
There was no reply and I have wondered about this too. I have seen some posts on other sites where the voids were covered. I would think it would be the same as Fuzzcar did covering the voids on his doors. Anyone have ups or downs about covering them? I checked another site where Fuzz showed more about his audio setup and he may have covered them with the plywood he used for his subs.

Mark: Snowman-33
 

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I know I'm digging this up from long ago. .....

Mark: Snowman-33

Old sure but certainly still valid point, and wondering this has not gotten any discussion. The roll of FatMat I saved for the SS trunk/quarters went instead into my FWB when I cleaned/dyed its carpet. Considering only 7X,XXX miles I'm still trying to quiet it down as much as possible for a 20+ year old GM. I'm ordering new door seals, instead of FatMat for that opening into the trunk I've decided on the Luxery Liner Pro to blanket the entire seatback area. The factory moonroof is another matter as impossible to buy a new seal. I've adjusted it several times but still clearly obvious wind noise from the worn seal even with special sound mat panels I put under the roof and the top of the shade. Caulking it closed and pulling the fuse is on the to-do list.



Getting off track from the original thread, but sound deadening certainly has improved over 2 decades, even in the least expensive cars compared to ours. ::Grrrr::
 
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