I've waited entirely too long to write this up (months and months at this point) and mostly it's been an inability to find a reliable image hosting option. Also, I was a little busy. I've probably forgotten about half the pertinent and relevant info, but I'll post a bunch of pics and explain what I can remember.
As we know, the primary issue is that the kit will work fine on any B-body which utilizes 3 wires for the sending unit, while the Fleetwood uses 4 wires (has an isolated ground for the fuel level gauge). It's fairly simple to make it work without simply combining the grounds (I have to believe there's a reason why GM did it that way), you just need some tools, some odds and ends, and a little patience. And for what it's worth, there's more than one way to approach this, and being who I am, I obviously went for the most convoluted way possible. Hopefully though you'll be able to follow this and figure out what you need to know.
First off, the tools you'll need or may want, in order to make it easier.
Lower right corner, you'll need these. They're for removing the terminals from the various connectors you'll be dealing with. You can substitute a variety of small items, but these work amazing and well worth it if you work with harnesses and connectors a lot. Also, this is what that brass colored safety pin in the Racetronix kit is for, modifying the harness that comes with it, (if you've done a Racetronix kit you know what I'm referring to). My set is a Lisle 57750.
You'll need a terminal crimping tool like this. There's a variety of options, I'd recommend something mid-grade, unless you plan on doing a lot of this stuff. This is not a normal crimper, it's designed specifically for the Delphi Weather-pack and Delphi Metri-pack terminals. There are better ones that use interchangeable dies for whatever size you need, and will crimp the terminal and boot in 1 stage which would be the cat's pajamas, but are rather expensive. With this you do it in 2 stages, I crimped the terminal itself first with whatever size worked, then switch to the size needed to crimp the boot. I'd recommend experimenting with this thing and some spare terminals, I don't always use the size marked on the tool, sometimes I get a tighter crimp by going down a size.
Optional: a good wire strippers. I mess around with electrical enough that I decided it was time to get something decent. These are ok for what they are and meet my needs, if I were doing this stuff professionally I'd probably get something better yet. You don't need to strip much off for these types of terminals, I think a 1/4" at most is all you need to remove.
Optional: a PEX crimping tool. Due to the approach I took, I had to remove the hose from the pump to the underside of the sending unit, and wanted to reattach it the same way. Since it was attached with PEX clamps (3/8" or 1/2", I don't remember but the Racetronix kit comes with 1 spare for sure, don't remember if I bought a second one or if there were 2 spares) I opted to get the correct tool for those. There really is no substitute, but you probably won't need this unless you did what I did. I hated the purple turbine thing and opted to use an actual Walbro pump instead, and adapted things to mate it with the Racetronix kit. You could also use worm screw clamps, but make sure they're rated for submersion in fuel, (I have no clue if that can be determined, but I assume if you can find a full stainless one made in the USA, it won't be an issue).
I'd also recommend a set of picks if you don't already have some. I picked up a cheap set at Lowes, whatever their house brand was.
Next, other things you'll need.
Some Metri-pack 150.2 female terminals. Actually I think you only need 2, I think, but they come in bulk. At least they're cheap. They'll be used to populate the empty cavity of the terminal inside the tank going to the bulkhead connector, and then to the terminal on the outside connecting to the other side of the bulkhead connector. Also, the bulkhead connector is a Metri-pack terminal and I had found a part number for that at one point, but lost it. But it is possible to replace just that item if you lose or damage it or whatever. We just need to find the part number again.
Some Weather-pack terminals. Mostly everything will be 14awg, since that's what the Racetronix kit uses, but you may want to have a few other sizes on hand just in case. I swear I used something else somewhere. Helpful hint, they're color-coded so it's easy to tell the sizes apart. So far I've come across gray, green, red and blue.
And obviously a 4-terminal harness. Get the Delphi brand, (for everything, terminals, boots, harnesses, both Weather and Metri pack), trust me. Most will come with the terminals and boots already, and I'd grab a pair just in case. Or maybe you actually need two, this is why I should have written this months ago. They can be had in a two pack though, and they're not expensive.
Also optional, the tank seal. Somewhere along the way you may end up with one, but I wanted to be sure I was using a quality one and got an ACDelco one. They're cheap.
I don't know why, but every sock/filter that came with the various things I bought were different from the original sock/filter. They were the cotton? fabric ones, while the factory was more of a plastic?, nylon?, I don't know. I got lucky and scored a NOS one on ebay for cheap. If nothing else, that's the part number if you want the factory style filter.
You'll need some wire also, TXL 14awg and it can be had in black with a white stripe, which will match the Fleetwood wiring. Depending on other variables, you may also need a new sending unit. I had planned to just overhaul my original, but after removing it I didn't like the condition it was in, (in particular the rusty hard lines outside the tank) and opted to start over with a new one. I think I used the Spectra, it's a known good option with a better gauge level unit that shouldn't go wonky over time like the originals did. In my opinion, the absolute best option would be the updated ACDelco unit, but they never updated the D-body one.
There is an updated B-body unit that I believe can be adapted to work in the Fleetwood, but I'd have to have one in my hands to be sure, and at twice the price I wasn't willing to chance it at the time. Basically since the grounds are tied together, just cut them apart where the sensor ground ties in and wire it separately to work with the Fleetwood, but again without having it in front of me to confirm that, don't take my word for it.
Aside from the Racetronix kit itself, that should be everything you'll need. If like me, you want to substitute a different pump (in my case the Walbro) you'll need that (whatever pump number comes up for our cars, or the LT1 motor, I forget how it's listed) and I'd recommend the LT1 installation kit (I think that's how it's listed). I don't remember what I used out of that, but I know I used something. It could possibly be just the wiring connector to the pump itself, but it is different from the purple turbine thing and I don't think the pump by itself came with it. Again though, I'm working from what I can remember several months ago and there are a lot of pieces to this puzzle.