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Modified Fuel Rails

13K views 62 replies 22 participants last post by  illmatic96ss 
#1 · (Edited)
Scott Knight started a thread about modified valve covers to clear his shaft rockers. I was also going through the same thing. I mentioned I modified my fuel rails as well and was asked to post some pictures, here they are. As you can see it's a lot easier to work on when the sheet metal is out of the way.



















Dennis
 
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#8 ·
You know your intake is on backwards?
The intake is not bolted down, nor is it even in position. I believe it is safe to state it was positioned this way for pics, which is another way of stating it was done for your benefit to allow viewing of how the rear plumbing was fabricated and installed.
 
#11 ·
WOW! Talk about a perfect setup. Great job. So what are the details of the motor? coil packs, dual feed fuel rails, cog drive...must be nasty.
 
#15 · (Edited)
The motor is a 383, forged crank (Oil shed coating), H Beam rods (Oil Shed coating), Forged JE Pistons, (ceramic coated on top moly coated on sides oil shedding on the bottom), Trick flow heads (ceramic coated chambers and exhaust ports, spring area and outside oil shedding) Comp blower cam, one installed is rather small 224 I 236 E @ 50 Lift ~ .560 with the T & D shaft rockers I have. I have another but I want to see where I am with the current installed cam. Blower is a pro-charger F1.

Program Engineering 4 bolt caps, block decked so I piston come in flat with the deck and I end up with a quench of .045 with the Cometic Head gaskets I'm using. Compression ratio is around 8.5. The heads were cut also to get the chamber sizes where I wanted them.

The ignition is the 24X EFI Connection hence the coil packs. I will be using a LS1 441 PCM.

I am using Dan's (Clear Image) headers and 3" SS exhaust.

I still need to get Methenol injection system, I'm going to try and see if I can run this without the intercooler.....plug wires (Livewire) and other odds and ends to finish this project up. Been working on it off and on for the past 4 years. What started as a simple motor rebuild turned into what you see and then some... Pulled the frame out rewelded powdercoated, control arms changed the rears... Turn one steering boxthe list goes on and on.

Here are some other photos of the battery location and the frame while I was working on it.











Dennis
 
#12 ·
*taking notes*


nice work!! I will be doing a similar fuel rail setup for my engine, hope it turns out as good as yours. cwm7
 
#13 ·
same and same lol
 
#18 ·
Very impressive setup and great work! I have the Snow Performance water/meth injection setup on my car, works great.
 
#25 ·
looks like it's a LCA reinforcement brace...

I'm also very curious to see where you got it from, I was thinking of doing something like that on mine. I know they are available for the more popular platforms but never saw a part like that advertised to fit on our cars.
 
#33 ·
Breathtaking! Not your average B-Body build!
 
#34 ·
Thank you, no it's not your average build.

As a side note, GuillaumeC, I did talk to Rodney @ AIS. They have exactly what I am looking for. After talking to Rodney our plan of attack is to keep the intercooler and go with 3 nozzle setup. One at the inlet of the blower and two just ahead of the throttle body.

When I order and install I'll post pictures along with others as I progress. I still need to order wheels and tires...... Boze Pro touring have to figure out size, offset and which tires to run.

Dennis
 
#43 ·
Dennis, I had no idea your project was anywhere near this cool when talking to you about it offline. Is it wrong that I am as impressed with your shop space as the project itself? cwm4

The fact that you have both fuel rails individually plumbed to the regulator means you could close off the crossover and use a 1st gen LT1 intake to get rid of that horrible hump behind the throttlebody. Or just mill it out and weld it shut since it's obvious you have the skillset.

If it was me, I would also consider extending the rear of the plenum since nothing is going on there either. Won't make quite as much difference with forced induction to increase the plenum volume, but it can never hurt to get that #8 port off the back wall.
 
#44 ·
Thanks Scott.

Your right since I have a fuel bypass with the regulator I could have used an earlier LT1 intake, I don't know if there would be any benefit since I am boosting, not to mention I've had to modify this one to fit my setup. I decked the block to get the pistons to zero at TDC and I cut the heads to get the chamber volumes where I want which means I had to cut the bottom and sides of the intake to get it to line up correctly. Since those pictures were taken I have added another 2 bar TMAP sensor to the top of the intake just behind the throttle body so I can sense both MAP and the air temp just behind the throttle body. Rodney from AIS suggested that I should measure air temp after the TB and use that reference to adjust my tune so I don't have a meltdown. The sensor is one that is used on the turbocharged LNF motors, I had one left over from the stage kit upgrade I had done on my turbocharged HHR SS so I used it and made an electrical change to my harness to integrate the new sensor. I am currently re-pinning the harness for the LS PCM, I'm not happy with the way the harness is fitting so far I may be lengthening some wires to get it to fit the way I want. I moved the dash temp gage sensor to the side of the water pump to sense water temp coming out of the block rather than the temp in the head and I had to move the ECT sensor to the side as well since it would interfere with my blower belt, the modifying continues.....

Dennis
 
#45 ·
FWIW It is worth taking out the fuel crossover and cutting off the top of the intake and grinding out all the stuff from the casting in the way. Did it years ago and the results have been good. Several other things you can do to a stock intake if you are really looking to make top power.
 
#46 ·
Forgot, you will have no problem running the engine with only meth injection.

Very nice car from the ground up. Nice to see another blower car coming.
 
#47 ·
Thanks Jeff,

I will be using gas and meth injection. Although I'm still waiting for my tank from Ricks Hotrods....

With regards to modifing the intake, PM me on modifications I can make. I'll get another intake and do the wack and hack on it to get it to fit.
 
#48 ·
I know this thread is mainly for the rails, but would you mind posting more pics of the previously mentioned modificatins. (sensor relocations and such)

Im so GLAD you started this thread, and so MAD I sold my procharger. lol


Thanks,
ZACH
 
#51 · (Edited)
Yes we have strayed a bit form the original post.... I'm alright with as long as everyone else is.

This is the new location of the Dash Gage coolant sensor. With the new location in the water pump My gage will be indicating coolant temp after it passes through the heads and block and then to the radiator like the PCM/ECTS sensor does. In the factory location the gage is displaying coolant temp just after being pumped into the heads, not a real good indication of whats going on.



Here is the new location of the PCM/ECTS sensor



With this mod I have had the water pump on and off now about 4 times.......

I'm in the process of wrapping and wringing out the wiring to be sure all the pins are in the correct locations for the sensor and/or device on the 411 PCM.


Dennis
 
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