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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just redid my intake gaskets, torqued bolts to spec waited 2 days before starting and running coolant through engine, havent noticed any coolant leaking or no milky oil, any suggestions as to what would be a noticable issue with a leaking intake?
 

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There is no coolant involved with an LT1 intake manifold .
Throttle body, sure , but not intake.
 

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First hit using, 'symptoms vacuum leak':

6 Symptoms of a Vacuum Leak & Causes - Mechanic Base

Also, coolant does not circulate through the intake of the reverse-cool LT1 engine. [I see just been covered ;) ]

Also, allowing time for sealant to cure is a great idea. If taking the time to do that then also include just snugging bolts with final torque after cure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Ok thanks for the info i will double check, does anyone make a vacuum line kit for our cars by chance? Also are there prime suspect spots oil will leak from the intake that i should check to be sure
 

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Ok thanks for the info i will double check, does anyone make a vacuum line kit for our cars by chance? Also are there prime suspect spots oil will leak from the intake that i should check to be sure
Hasn't been an oft-asked question. What exactly do you want this line kit to do?

And the answer is, Yes. The back, the back, and the back. Seriously, both china walls take to leaking after time but the front much less compared to the rear (for apparent reasons). What oozes from the back down is onto mostly either side of the bellhousing at the starter and/or oil filter adapter area. If the engine bay is respectfully maintained clean then it's pretty apparent where the source. Some guys unnecessarily replace the rear main seal from a slicked-up bellhousing cover. A driver's side leak that's proven not coming from above will indeed be the filter adapter. The replacement of that metal gasket is a great definition of 'not fun'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks black, the line kit i was inquiring about would be a vacuum line kit, mine being a 94 i can almost guarantee i have multiple cracked or rotted vacuum lines
 

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I've heard of colored coolant line kits - never for the vacuum hoses though. Just add up the o.a. lengths, i.d.-es and types (oem usually has stenciled identifiers) and buy enough to do it all together. Remove battery and do all the EVAP as well. It'll be icky, and the little piece connected to nothing is correct. You'll know if you're really the conscientious type if you get the rear up and inspect the (usually rotted off) vent line above the front of the tank. It causes trouble with the EVAP system.
 

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Op, just buy bulk vacuum hose the sizes you need from any auto part store.
 

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A tip for that thin wall across back of motor is a series of depression points made with center punch ,or similar tool. Recall intake instructions for vortec intake was finger tight in torque sequence immediately after setting intake. Half torque after 10-15 minutes ,and full torque after half an hour. Let sit overnight before starting ,and then verify torque a final time....
 
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You're older- -sorry, more aged than you look. Staking the rear china wall do be a [since the first sbc] thing. Inner-issting, you're showing they've actchilly made a science of this stuff-------
 
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