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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got the opti off the car. I removed the isolater plate that shields the optical disk. That is when I noticed the optical disk cavity has a nice layer of mobil 1 coating everything.









So how do I proceed from here?

I know I have an oil leak on the front of the engine. The outside of the opti was covered in oil when I took it off. I imagine the parameter seal failed. That would be cool cause I would replace it. But how do I know if the coupler seal (the one on the opti shaft) has failed or not?
 

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If you're talking that big 2" diameter one that surrounds the opti drive shaft, just replace it. That thing took me like 5 minutes to replace once the opti was off. Take a punch and collapse it, pull it out, use a wood block wrapped in a plastic bag, and drive the new one in. Done.

I saw another opti in a junkyard that was full of oil like yours. I think the engine also had front end leaks too.
 

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I got a nasty front end leak on mine so it probably looks bad like this also....
 

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If you are into it this far, with 100,000+ miles....replace every seal in the cover, WP shaft , the 2 o-rings on the OPTI shaft, front leaks gone. Take a good look at the crank seal also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you're talking that big 2" diameter one that surrounds the opti drive shaft, just replace it. That thing took me like 5 minutes to replace once the opti was off. Take a punch and collapse it, pull it out, use a wood block wrapped in a plastic bag, and drive the new one in. Done.

I saw another opti in a junkyard that was full of oil like yours. I think the engine also had front end leaks too.
I am not talking about the seal on the timing chain cover. I am talking about the hole that is literally on the back back of the opti. I assume there must be a seal located on the shaft where it penetrates the opti. The seal is located between the snout that connects to the cam and the opti disk. If that is where the oil is getting sucked in, I think I a fooked. If that is the case I think I may have to replace the whole opti. I don't think we can service the opti that extensively. I think the optical sensor is still good. Maybe I can swap the good sensor into a cheaper opti and be in the clear.

If you are into it this far, with 100,000+ miles....replace every seal in the cover, WP shaft , the 2 o-rings on the OPTI shaft, front leaks gone. Take a good look at the crank seal also.
It is very hard to see where the source of the leak is. There were no seals on the opti shaft. Maybe that could be the issue. It looks like stuff has been slung from the opti hole in the chain cover. Between the opti o-rings missing and the poo slinging from the opti hole I would say the opti seal would be suspect.

I bought the full on gasket and seal kit. It was about the same price. That oil leak has been there since I got the car with 34K miles on it. I am not in a hurry to get it on the road. I would like to get it right the first time and be done with it. How would one change the crank seal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, the good news is that I put the car back together again. The REALLY good news is that it runs! It be runnin' real good too.

What I did was douched the hell out of the opti sensor, disk, all the internals with CRC Industries - QD® Electronic Cleaner.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CRC0/05103.oap?keyword=contact+cleaner

If you want to clean your optical sensor, this does not seem to hurt it. I sprayed about a gallon and a half of this stuff on it. cwm4
However, YMMV.
 

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Oooo sounds like you got away. Please dont spray the opti sensor directly. As you may already know they are super sensitive to moisture.
 

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Well, the good news is that I put the car back together again. The REALLY good news is that it runs! It be runnin' real good too.

What I did was douched the hell out of the opti sensor, disk, all the internals with CRC Industries - QD® Electronic Cleaner.
This is encouraging to me. I am having similar issues to yours. So the only new parts are cap/rotor and seals, correct? One of these days I will get around to getting mine done.
 

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Delco/mitsu OS's are alot tougher than they get credit for

As long as you use CRC QD Electrical cleaner spray, it will be fine.

I know I've had to spray my OS at least 5 times due to oil contamination so bad that the 4 tiny metal "grates" that cover/aim the little sensor bulbs were saturated or full of oil, being that the reluctor wheel will sling it into that area. I sprayed the crap out of that area alone, to make sure the sensor lens behind the metal cover was totally free of any oil-residue.

The only places I didn't spray heavily were the back side of the OS, where the elec. harness terminals go in and around the seams on the front (the small black cover part).
I still sprayed those places clean and then took compressed dry air and forced the issue of drying.

I have a dissected OS somewhere here, the circuit board inside is completely potted in a clear, viscous jelly-like substance, so it really shouldn't matter, but I still took care spraying around those areas.

This is also on an opti/ OS bought in '06 (Delco), and its the one I'm still running and spinning to 6800 RPM every once in a blue moon.

I wouldn't spray anything else on the OS or opti, the QD works fine and it won't mess with plastic like carb cleaner can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Oooo sounds like you got away. Please dont spray the opti sensor directly. As you may already know they are super sensitive to moisture.
Oh I hit it directly all right. I hit it directly a LOT. The spray dries very quickly. I really had no choice because the optical sensor was saturated in Mobil 1. It did work before I took it apart. It was sort of a gamble if I should clean it or not. I came out on the good side of things.

I am just saying, if you have a real need to clean it, this is a method that worked for me. If there is no need to clean it then you may want to leave it well enough alone. I have never heard of anybody else doing it. I did a search. As far as I can tell, I seem to be a pioneer in cleaning an optical sensor.

This is encouraging to me. I am having similar issues to yours. So the only new parts are cap/rotor and seals, correct? One of these days I will get around to getting mine done.
I have so much to add to my opti maintenace thread after having done it myself now. I would strongly encourage you to do it sooner than later. It is not really all that hard at all. If I had had all the parts that I needed ready, I could have had it done in probably less than 8 hours. That was my first time doing things. I bet I could do it in less than half that now.

EDIT:
As long as you use CRC QD Electrical cleaner spray, it will be fine.
Looks like I am not the pioneer I thought I was. But it does confirm my findings.
 

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I had a thread or two late last year documenting my last opti trial, and ultimately I determined that the opti shaft seal or bearing must allow a small amount of oil to seep past it when running if exposed to a small amount of oil constantly due to a bad timing cover seal.


My vacuum harness also tested good each time, as the leak is more like oil creeping by the seal and getting slung off the reluctor wheel inside as the opti driveshaft spins.

I had all the other places the opti could leak vacuum sealed good, i.e. Elec. connector seal, also where each screw threads through the backing plate, as one of the OS screws comes through in a very bad spot, esp in relation its sensitivity to oil seepage from above IMO.

I decided to try to eliminate all the possible points that the DS could get oil dripped on it from.

I learned the hard way that HAVE to change the opti timing cover seal oil-free each time the opti is removed, and the WP seal if it shows ANY evidence of seeping oil, no way around it.





I took mine a step further, I took a method an early aftermarket opti manufacturer used, and incorporated it when installing mine. That methid is to further protect the opti shaft from getting any oil on it from above.

I used some industrial grade high-temp teflon "pipe-joint gasket-maker",(its like a flat strip of tough teflon padding on a spool, it can't be ripped, and it has a light adhesive backing that helps it stick for installation),
I ran 1 strip of it on the timing cover the groove that makes the circle that all the ribs of the cover meet, the opti has a solid ring that countersinks into this groove.

The strips were exactly wide enough to fill the groove, and just thick enough to compress ever-so slightly when the opti is bolted on, making a gasket to keep anything from being able to drip onto the opti driveshaft once its bolted up.

I positioned where the strip came together at 6 o'clock, and made sure there was a small gap left when compressed, so the opti didn't get pumped full of oil if the opti timing cover seal is ever compromised afterwards.




-I suppose you could do this with a quality RTV as well, it will just be messier the next time the opti has to come off, and its important that you use just enough. Too much could possibly drip down onto the opti drive shaft, ruining the new opti timing cover seal.

It would especially make getting the emergency oil leak weep hole in the newly made seal a lot more difficult, as its not easy getting the opti to go all the way on the first try without moving the backing plate around much.




Also, in addition to copper RTV'ing every section of the opti where the factory seal it, I also got new o-rings that go on the opti driveshaft, to help keep it from wobbling excessively.


My opti has worked perfect ever since then minus one incident with that involved a bad connection at opti elec. harness, but that wasn't the opti's fault.
 

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My last Opti crapped out on me because of this very thing... oil got into it and screwed it up. I never thought about cleaning the optical sensor, since it was the original Opti i replaced it with one from NAPA.

I wish i would've pinpointed the oil leak though and took care of it... There's a small oil leak somewhere above my Opti as well. Last time i was under the car a few months ago to change the oil, i had to wipe a little oil off of the top of the Opti.
 
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