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i have a 94 roadie sedan with terrible oil leaking problems and i am stuck on what to do with a motor swap. My options are trying to drop a crate carb'd 350 into and trying to figure out how to modify to keep the body and trans ecu working. OR there is a local guy in my area with a 54k mile 4.3 l99 for $200 complete with ecu and everything and i was thinking to get that and swap it it. Im not too concerned with performance as it is my daily driver and im still in school and i already have a cat back exhaust and intake so it wont be terribly slow. My car is the base sedan with 2.56 rear end and a 4l60e. any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
 

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I guess as long as you don't mind the downgrade from a LT1, you wouldn't really have any issues going with the L99 install. Should be easy if they are both the same year and you have the PCM for the L99 engine. You would need the injectors from the L99 engine as well. But that's about it.


Edit: Since the gear ratio would be different from the L99 car, chances are the speedo will be off and the PCM will need to programmed to fix that.
 

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**** for 2000 ied rather fix the lt1 or rebuild I think 2000 should cover that right?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I guess as long as you don't mind the downgrade from a LT1, you wouldn't really have any issues going with the L99 install. Should be easy if they are both the same year and you have the PCM for the L99 engine. You would need the injectors from the L99 engine as well. But that's about it.


Edit: Since the gear ratio would be different from the L99 car, chances are the speedo will be off and the PCM will need to programmed to fix that.
so i would just need to swap the l99 injectors and computer box? and the flywheel/ flex plate should be fine as its the same trans and everything.
 

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**** for 2000 ied rather fix the lt1 or rebuild I think 2000 should cover that right?
if i had the finances that would be my first choice but between still being in school and working for minimum wage part time i cant even come close to the money i would need.
 

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Oooo ok my bad I read the post wrong I thought 2000 for that l99 weres it leaking oil from
 

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if i had the finances that would be my first choice but between still being in school and working for minimum wage part time i cant even come close to the money i would need.
The hard truth is that this is the wrong car for you. Sell it to someone who knows how to fix the leaks and maintain the car. Get a used Honda or similar car that you can afford and will not break your finances with maintenance costs. Putting a carbed 350 in the car is not financially feasible and an L99 will ruin the car. It is fairly clear that you don't know a lot about these cars and even if you did, keeping up with basic maintenance will ruin your finances. Good luck.
 

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an L99 will ruin the car.
Not sure how an L99 would ruin the car. I wouldn't like to drive it, but if the OP is not concerned with power, I don't see the problem.


Although I can agree with you that these are not the type of cars that you get away cheap on repairs. If you're not looking to spend a lot of money maintaining a car, b-bodies are not for you. Repairs can add up pretty quickly, especially if the car was neglected for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
its the front crank seal im 100% sure ive replaced it twice sleeved the hub and it still leaks out of the front crank seal i dont know wether to go to a shop and get screwed over but hopefully get it fixed without a leak? and suggestions? selling the car isnt an option nobody will pay dime for my car im my area they go for 1500 to 5000 and with a leak they will try to get me to pretty much give it away so then i wouldnt even be able to afford a ****ty honda with a million miles. this car only has 89000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so its not like im 100% un knowledged about this car. i researched it for months before my dad gave it to me as a graduation gift. i understand that it has a keyless hub so im not sure if i have to replace the hub and possibly the balancer too and what my options are. That is my i came to the forum to try and learn from the people that love and embrace these cars because i love my car and it deserves to last longer than 89k
 

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front crank seal.
Might sound dumb, but have you verified that it's not the opti seal or water pump drive seal above the crank seal that's leaking? If either of those seals leak, it could look like it was coming from the crank seal. If it only has 89K, I can't imagine the crank would be that bad to leak even when sleeved.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Might sound dumb, but have you verified that it's not the opti seal or water pump drive seal above the crank seal that's leaking? If either of those seals leak, it could look like it was coming from the crank seal. If it only has 89K, I can't imagine the crank would be that bad to leak even when sleeved.
yeah its deffinently the crank seal all the others were inspected when i replaced the water pump, which was the main reason it sat because of a leaking waterpump. it seems to leak right at the top side outer lip as where the seal meets the timing cover.
 

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Try putting a new (used) timing cover on it. You could have a crack In the cover. You can get one cheap at a pick-n-pull junk yard if they have an LT1 car (94-95). One from an L99 would fit as well. That would make it really cheap.

I supported 2 Olds CCs when going to school. They have their issues as well. I even replaced the engine in one of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Try putting a new (used) timing cover on it. You could have a crack In the cover. You can get one cheap at a pick-n-pull junk yard if they have an LT1 car (94-95). One from an L99 would fit as well. That would make it really cheap.

I supported 2 Olds CCs when going to school. They have their issues as well. I even replaced the engine in one of them.
i was thinking of that but im worried about dropping the oil pan to remove the timing cover and creating more leaks as this is my first car and i only have a little experience working on cars besides my shop classes and this seems like a big job for a first time ya know. but if i did in fact go with that plan i would need as much guidance from you guys on the forum as i could get.
 

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Swapping the engine would be a far bigger job than dropping the oil pan.

Where in Wisconsin are you located?

Gibson's Iron and Salvage in Neenah has 4 or 5 LT1's in the yard now. I think they charge $150 for a core engine.

Jim
 

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Dropping the pan is not a big deal. You do not have to remove it from the car completely. Just low enough to get the front cover out, which should be about 1/2 - 3/4 of and inch. You may not even have to remove the rear screws all the way. The gasket is silicone, and will reseal with just a touch of RTV at the corners of the bearing cap.

The hardest part is taking all of the accessories/parts off to get to the cover. Just be careful with the opti.

The only "special" tool is the damper remover/installer, and you can "rent" it from AZ or AAP.
 
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