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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, it's my turn for help to try to get my car reliable again.

  • Starts and runs as usual cold, warms up and runs ok if not shut off.
  • Restart warm with short off time and it runs like it's flooded, no power doesn't want to run.
  • Force it through the sputtering with the throttle (out of gear), get it to rev and appears to clean up and run.
  • Drove it another 30 miles home running ok.
  • Has happened last night after an Aldis stop and today after a 20 minute stop and restart.
  • Old fool (me) thinking an injector letting gas through but have no real idea.
  • Don't know where to go from here. Somewhat capable but.......... Have a 3 part factory manual.
  • Left the wife a few months ago and she has most of my tools, I know, "smart"!
  • Anyway, got any suggestions for me?
Thanks in advance
Carl the Snarl
 

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Not to hijack...

But I was about to post a thread asking for help on mine.

I just pulled the fuel rails to check for F/I leaks. They looked good. Never saw a drop on any injector.

Basically, I have to floor the throttle pedal in order to get the car to start every time. I would have thought that the cooler weather would have made a difference, but it didn't seem to. I do smell gas when I start it sometimes. Sometimes when it starts, it needs a few seconds to burn off excess gas (I guess) before it idles normally. It will back-fire/puff of smoke through the intake (front-fire?) on occasion. It's running kinda OK otherwise.

Any idea what might cause this?

Thanks,

-KP

...'96 SS

-Are my grammar and punctuation adequate, JJ?
 

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Cel, ABS, low-coolant, low-oil, low-fuel, Air Bag...it's a Christmas Display in my dash! I am constantly surprised by a new and interesting light coming on. If I could make the car run reliably for more than a week, I'd be able to knock them out.

I have an eternal P0412 from the missing AIR, and I haven't re-checked the codes since I discovered the shorting Crank Sensor harness.

I'll try to get them scanned tomorrow.


-KP
 

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How's the fuel pressure? Put a gauge on it & report the results. While you are at it, pull the vacuum line off the FPR & make sure it's not wet with fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How's the fuel pressure? Put a gauge on it & report the results. While you are at it, pull the vacuum line off the FPR & make sure it's not wet with fuel.
Heading to the store for a fuel pressure gauge, what meanum FPR? fuel pressure regulator?
 

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Bringing this back up instead of starting a new thread. I now own the car that the original poster started the thread about. Ive had the car about 3 weeks w/o a problem and Carl did tell me about this problem. It finally acted up today. It was very strange. I of course was in a hurry jumped in the car after 20-30 minutes of sitting the driveway and fired it up and threw it in reverse. Sputter sputter cough cough died. WOULD NOT RESTART. Again I was in a HURRY so I banged on the tank, nothing. So I put the pedal to the floor and it took about 3 or 4 ten second cranks before she finally cleared out and fired. Very odd. Now I have been daily driving the car since I bought it. I know that the car probably sat a lot in the past. Im expecting things like this to happen just so its clear Carl told me about this and my post has nothing to do with him. :)

Now, here is some new information to add to Carl's symptoms. The water pump is leaking now. It wasnt (that I could tell) when I inspected the car prior to purchasing. But it definitely is now. I planned on this so the car is getting new opti-spark, wires, plugs, water pump, fuel system cleaning, etc next week. I like the ECT possibility. Because the temp on this car usually runs pretty cold, but it was mid 70s today and I was making lots of 10-15 mile trips all day long before this occurred. So the temp gauge was more towards halfway. In any event Ill put a fuel pressure gauge on it. But the missing once it fired for a few seconds really has me thinking Opti. Just looking for your experiences and opinions. Im very mechanically capable so let me know what you think. Thanks for your time, LOVING THIS CAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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The ECT has nothing to do with the temp gauge. ECT is in the front of the WP, the gauge sensor is on the pass. side head between the #6 & #8 plugs.

As far a the christmas tree of light's, I would clear all codes & start from scratch. You could check the grounds at the ign control module on the front of the drivers side head, & pull the air cleaner box off and check the PCM harness, they have been known to rub on the inner fender housing and cause all sort's of chit.
 

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kpeters59 has the xmas tree. I have no dash light. I know the ECT has nothing to do with the temp gauge. Its for the PCM. What Im saying is that the car was running warmer than normal maybe that had something to do with the restart problem. The car was driven a lot more than I usually do yesterday. Several 10 to 15 mile trips, probably 6 or 7. Usual day is 10 miles to work, 10 home. Thanks for your reply and I did inspect the grounds near the ign coil, they are solid. Thanks :)
 

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All of that and no MIL? Are you sure it's working?

I put a Accutron code reader on mine last seek and drove around with it for a while. That was great. I was able to watch a bunch of sensors and see codes when they set real quick. It told me I was in open loop, and if the MIL was set or not.

I'd just repaired the Crank Position Sensor harness that had been pinched between the header and frame. But I keep getting the p0335 and p0336 codes and have no data from Bank 2 Sensor 1. Which I think is the drivers side O2 before the Cat. Right? That's the Bosch I couldn't remove and broke my 25 year old, barely used O2 socket. I stopped by my preferred muffler shop yesterday for him to swap it, but his bay's were full.

I'm driving around in open loop. Those codes basically keep me out of closed loop. I'm hoping when I swap the O2 sensor that'll move me forward. I guess my CPS is fried? Is there a way to test it? It's a $70 part, and I'd just as soon not own 2...

Anyway, we don't seem to have the same problem, except the symptoms are similar. Since replacing the damaged section of the CPS harness my symptoms have stabilized. My car doesn't do what yours does anymore really. Kinda like a momentary seizure or a tantrum. Then it's OK. Mine was associated with stop and go traffic. That's gone for me. I still have a right-turn issue. It'll cough and sputter turning right. I thought the wire service fixed that. Guess not. Maybe it's chaffed at the PCM, which has been suggested. Lat night turning right into my buddies driveway, I could feel it "doing it", but when the suspension compressed going on to the driveway, it died dead.

Enough rambling. Try a half-way decent code reader for a few days?

-KP
 

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Thanks for your reply. Yes, the engine light works, I have verified that. No codes, I have also verified that. Im a shop manager so I have access to any equipment I need. I guess I just need it to act up when Im pulling into work, LOL.

Ill do some more research........... thanks for your replies
 

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Here we are 2 months down the road and the car acted up again tonight. :( Since November I have done some maintenance items.

New Distributor
New Opti Cap/Rotor
New Coil
New Plug Wires
New Plugs
New Water Pump
New Intake Manifold Gasket

What else is left here guys? Car was operating temperature in the driveway at idle for a few mins while I took pictures. Backed it in the garage and it sat for about an hour or less. Jumped in the car to go to the store and when it fired it was running a little rough. So I gave it 1/4 throttle and it missed out, popped through in the intake and stumbled badly. Okay, let it go back to idle, was of course trying to die. Gave it throttle again, and it died. Would not restart. Throttle to the floor still would not restart. Cranked on it with foot to the floor and it didnt even try and kick (injectors shut off). Cranked with foot off throttle and it would try and kick. Waited a few more mins and cranked it again and it fired. Slowly gave it some throttle and it popped and carried on but finally cleared. Shut it off, restarted fine. WTH??????????????????? Drove to the store, fine, drove home fine. I dont know what else I can replace really. Opti Vent working fine.

Obviously its not a fuel issue. Only things left really is the (what I assume is the pickup for the coil) part on the coil bracket on the drivers side head. What else is directly related to ignition? Coolant temp sensor have any affect? Sorry for all the questions. Im a Turbo Buick guy, the LT1 is fairly new to me. I know its the same basics, but Im having trouble not being able to see any computer readings on the car. I use a Scanmaster on my Grand National........ maybe its time for a Scanmaster LT1? Please help, thanks fellas.
 

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8uwith6
Haven't heard u mention replacing the o2's
Also have you checked the icm beside the coil,mine was really dirty and covered with oil and dirt on the heat sink,i have heard these are problems when the motor gets hot b/c its right on the head.

Also have you cleaned the maf,those tend to get really dirty after 15 yrs,although i think it would act up while in open loop,maybe i got it backwards,i cleaned mine a couple months ago and was amazed at the crap that came off those tiny wires.

Mine was doin the same, while turning it would jump up and down and give me a good surge,knew it wasn't right,but right now im thinkin its the opti and i have it apart so im not sure if its fixed.

Im still a rookie with the lt1 so im learnin too,just sharing what i've read
 

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Cleaned heatsink fins on coil mounting bracket.

Car has brand new EGR Valve.

I have never ran into a car that will not start and run because of an oxygen sensor.

MAF is nice and clean.

THANK YOU FOR THE REPLIES FELLAS!
 

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Cleaned heatsink fins on coil mounting bracket.

Car has brand new EGR Valve.

I have never ran into a car that will not start and run because of an oxygen sensor.

MAF is nice and clean.

THANK YOU FOR THE REPLIES FELLAS!
i have had my car have issues due to o2 to the point where it would not start. due to the pcv valve and the o2



also a clogged cat
 

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Clogged cat would run poor all the time because the restriction does not change.

PCV is new/clean.

When the intake manifold gasket was replaced a different manifold was used/clean/verified.

Oxygen sensors only affect short term and long term fuel corrections. They are not used in startup.

This has to be ignition or fuel.
 

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Clogged cat would run poor all the time because the restriction does not change.

PCV is new/clean.

When the intake manifold gasket was replaced a different manifold was used/clean/verified.

Oxygen sensors only affect short term and long term fuel corrections. They are not used in startup.

This has to be ignition or fuel.
ok well then good luck
 
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