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Chevy Caprice Classic 1996, 5.7 liter
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Man, I’m so pumped MuleDawg was released from the shop and is rolling like a champ!!! Ok, so guys & gals (haven’t met a gal that owns a impala or caprice)... I have a question 🙋🏾‍♂️... in which order would you go with the following upgrades...
Fuel rail
Dual piston calibers
Headers
MuleDawg also if anyone knows what’s a good upgrade to injectors I can use... Don’t want to slip atoms ⚛ just want to upgrade my fuel system.

Also, I’m having to fix a window issue... does anyone know a sure fire way to replace the lil plastic rail slides inside the door?

Thanks for all the help & parts you guys & gals have gave me with getting MuleDawg back on the road.
 

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Headers , yes

Fuel rails, guys make a billion HP on stock rails so, no

Injectors, guys have made upwards of 340-350 RW on stock injectors.
When I had an LT1 it was a little over 330 with stock injectors, so , not yet.
Upgrade the electrical end of your fuel system first.

Dual piston calipers, that discussion is a slippery slope 😀
I am of the don't bother camp
 

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Chevy Caprice Classic 1996, 5.7 liter
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Discussion Starter #3
Headers , yes

Fuel rails, guys make a billion HP on stock rails so, no

Injectors, guys have made upwards of 340-350 RW on stock injectors.
When I had an LT1 it was a little over 330 with stock injectors, so , not yet.
Upgrade the electrical end of your fuel system first.

Dual piston calipers, that discussion is a slippery slope 😀
I am of the don't bother camp
Ok, thanks a lot brother...
 

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Chevy Caprice Classic 1996, 5.7 liter
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Discussion Starter #4
What do you mean the fuel wiring system?
 

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The wiring is undersized in our cars.
The voltage right at the pump ends up being lower by a measurable amount.
This is hard on the pump and lowers the max output it can deliver.
Depending on the amount of HP you have, it could also cause WOT issues.
Upgrading the wiring is a win win deal with no down side.
There are upgrade kits ( search Garys wiring) or you can build you own depending on your skills.
Both power and grounds need upgrading.
 

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The wiring is undersized in our cars.
ALL the electrical wiring in our cars is undersized - and after about 26 years, BRITTLE.
The voltage right at the pump ends up being lower by a measurable amount.
This is hard on the pump and lowers the max output it can deliver.
Depending on the amount of HP you have, it could also cause WOT issues.
Upgrading the wiring is a win win deal with no down side.
There are upgrade kits (search Gary's Innovative Wiring) or you can build you own depending on your skills.
Both power and grounds need upgrading.
Everything he says about the fuel system's electrical wiring is true. Often replacing the fuel pump assembly grows into replacing or upgrading electrical wiring while everything is out in the open due to sheer necessity.
Other electrical problems are well known, others will become well known as B- & D- cars continue into middle age.

It's not just the fuel system's electrical wiring that's become a problem. It's not just the grounds either.
The vast majority of the B- & D- body's electrical wiring was thin and brittle off the showroom floor 26 years ago.

Dual piston calipers? Not even close.
1st thing the B- & D- body brake systems need is MORE ROTOR MASS, especially up front.
2nd thing is BETTER VENTING, especially up front - larger rotors tend to be designed with better venting in mind.

Many systems with larger rotors also come with dual piston calipers, but it needs saying:
dual piston calipers on OEM size rotors might FEEL better. They might even result in mild brake performance improvements, but so long as the rotor mass is not addressed, the major weakness of the B- & D- car brake systems will NOT improve.

Most people do not evaluate their brakes with several 80MpH-to-0MpH panic stops (nevermind faster initial MpH).
If you do TWO 80MpH-to0MpH panic stops on the 9C1's OEM brake system (barely superior to the WX brake system, easy upgrade), no matter how good the 1st test is, most of the ISSF's elders already know that the 1st test WILL experience brake fade before the car stops, and the 2nd test WILL be worse than the 1st.

Dual piston calipers, or even a hydroboost system, on OEM front rotors, are only upgrades UNDER 60MpH at best.

Ask sherlock9c1 about fuel injector upgrades. You want a fuel injector that can handle about 450horse at 4bar/58psi, but that will ALSO have superior atomization at idle, even at 3 bar / 43psi.
 
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Man, I’m so pumped MuleDawg was released from the shop and is rolling like a champ!!! Ok, so guys & gals (haven’t met a gal that owns a impala or caprice)... I have a question 🙋🏾‍♂️... in which order would you go with the following upgrades...
Fuel rail
Dual piston calibers
Headers
MuleDawg also if anyone knows what’s a good upgrade to injectors I can use... Don’t want to slip atoms ⚛ just want to upgrade my fuel system.

Also, I’m having to fix a window issue... does anyone know a sure fire way to replace the lil plastic rail slides inside the door?

Thanks for all the help & parts you guys & gals have gave me with getting MuleDawg back on the road.
I agree with the others:
Fuel rail : NO I have 500+ HP LT1 on the stock fuel rails.
Injectors: Stay with stock unless you are over 350 RWHP or above 90% duty cycle on the injector. 80 - 85 % is a healthy maximum
Dual piston calipers: NO. Upgrade to the HD12 brake kit from Bill Harper. Much more rotor mass for heat dissipation.
Fuel Pump and Wiring: Yes change the pump and wiring. I can recommend the kit from Racetronics.

Window fix is easy to perform. Just search the ISSF

Later,
Michael
 
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I have significantly improved (newer and ethanol proof) injectors available but they require reprogramming, and I don't (yet) have a way to reprogram the '96 OBD2 computers.

Otherwise yes, fuel pump / sending unit wiring and headers.
 
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