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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, so aside from the basic tune up I see that it is written you don not need a heads and cam and or 383 to have a fast and fun bbody. If I read correct its written that with a cold air intake system, valve springs, 1.6 roller rockers, tconverter, headers, cat back exhaust, gears and tune a fast and fun bbody is attainable. Well I seen a good deal on an auburn posi carrier with 3.73 gears so I picked it up for $300 dollars awhile back but have yet to install. I would like two different opinions here I would like to know in what order should the remaining options be purchased with cost not being an issue.second, for someone one a budget trying to buy these items by cost first wich route would u do this? Thanks for all who comment.
 

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That is about my plan and I am on budget. I am also doing suspension 1 part at a time.
I am starting small with homedepot intake. Then exhaust and then drivetrain. Rearend and converter will be done almost together. After that I would do a tune. Last was gonna be the rockers and springs.
 

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I think you should start at the back of the car and work forward like you are doing. Gears, exhaust, tq converter, shift kit, intake and headers, then engine stuff. That's what i did so that i could match cam with all the supporting mods.
 

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If you are on a budget as most of us are, I would do like Eshaw mentioned but in different order.

- Exhaust and intake. The intake you can work over for as little as 20 bucks. Jegs cat back exhaust is a pretty good setup for 260 bucks or so, mandrel bent all the pipe hangers and mufflers.
- Gears and PCM tune next as they can firm up shift points to a point and they have to tune for the new gears anyway.
- do headers with the engine "stuff" as eshaw listed, dependant upon the mods you may have to have the PCM retuned to accommodate these changes. IF you change the cam make sure to find out if you are going to have to change the stall converter or not and do that along with shift kit and what not in the trans, easier to work on a trans when it is out of the car anyway and it has to be dropped to change a converter.


The best bang for your buck with a pretty much stock car would be and I think a gear swap and a pcm tune, after exhaust and intake of course.
 

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Those are good points. If he gonna do it right then yeah intake an headers/exhaust then tune for gears and converter. I never tuned for gears seperate. I just ran them on the stock tune with intake and headers/exhaust until i got the cam and heads. It was reading different mph but i didn't care too much. So i guess the smart thing would be headers and exhaust with intake since they don't require a tune and then do converter gears and tune at the same time. Then heads and cam and retune for those if you decide on head swap. You'd probably do the rockers with the cam swap.
 

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Those are good points. If he gonna do it right then yeah intake an headers/exhaust then tune for gears and converter. I never tuned for gears seperate. I just ran them on the stock tune with intake and headers/exhaust until i got the cam and heads. It was reading different mph but i didn't care too much. So i guess the smart thing would be headers and exhaust with intake since they don't require a tune and then do converter gears and tune at the same time. Then heads and cam and retune for those if you decide on head swap. You'd probably do the rockers with the cam swap.
Yeah with the gears you should really tune it no matter what, shift points are off by a factor as well as speedo as you mentioned. Yeah rockers, springs and cam at the same time, hell headers too then tune, that would be a hell of an increase in one dose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks allot. I wil def take these words into consideration coming from two members I see posting everywhere and helping as much as they can, thanks allot to the both of you. Now to get some money save so I can bother the hell out of jonhpc for a mod day haha!
 

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Thanks allot. I wil def take these words into consideration coming from two members I see posting everywhere and helping as much as they can, thanks allot to the both of you. Now to get some money save so I can bother the hell out of jonhpc for a mod day haha!

im ready
 

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do the intake and gears leave everything else alone.

1.6 rockers are good for maybe 10 HP at best and that's with every other supporting mod being there, so not worth the money.

factory dual exhaust of fine for the power you're making. dual 2.25" is good for 300 HP and you're not making that so leave that alone, nothing to gain there.

2.5" system will be good from 300-450 HP so if you're planning on ported heads and a different cam down the road then you'll need to address the stock pipes.

Headers will move your torque to a higher RPM so your initial seat of the pants will be that your car actually slowed down off the line but it will make more power in the upper RPM range.

If i had a stock car and i wanted the BEST bang for the buck without breaking the bank i'd do 3 mods, the cheapest (intake) , gears (most expensive) and a custom tune (no hypercrap)
 

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V8killer brings up a VERY good points, probably should know what your budget is as well, but what he listed is definitely the best bang for the buck without having to go into the motor and work it over to a point I guess.

Also if you were to do headers I personally would do springs and rockers as well, with the torque curve moving up in the power band, you will hit the valve float area with worn out old springs. Springs at least would be one of the better things to do at least.
 

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I'd definitely do the gears and converter at the same time, a long with a transmission overhaul (transgo hd2 shift kit as a minimum). Then a tune. It won't be cheap to do it all at once, so buy the parts bit by bit and hopefully you'll have it all together to put in when your transmission needs a rebuild anyway.),

As for the rockers/valve springs and CAI, those are fairly cheap and don't require a tune so do them whenever you want. Cat-back can also cheap and no tune needed. Headers though are expensive if you get anything decent.
 

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Start at the back and work your way forward.



1. **3.73 gears with a Trutrac or Eaton Posi (Auburns are truely junk);

2. **Yank 3000 to 3600 stall Torque Converter (I'd opt for the 3200 stall);

3. **52mm TC (I like BBK);

4. **Tune for performance as well as gear and TC and TB upgrades;

NOTE: 1 thru 4 should be done as a group

5. **Transgo shift kit with no more than 1 washer installed;

6. **Gen-1 or Gen-2 Tri-Y's with cats;

7. **2.5" Catback Exhaust (I like DynoMax);

8. **New valve springs and 1.6 roller rockers (I like the 918 springs and CompCams Pro-Mags or Ultra Pro-Mags).



KW
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well I have the auburn posi carrier with the 3.73 gears uninstalled in my trunk. Been trying hard to come up with money for some slp headers but should I pass and go for a tc instead? Anyone whose purchased a transgo shift kit can tell me the price range for that?

Anymore suggestions on ways to go about my budget modding is appreciated guys and thanks again all who commented.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've gotten two different shops, one says what u said as far as reluctor, the other said I didn't need one because of something that's already on the shaft of the gear thingy, ill try to get a pick of it to post up today so I can hear. What you guys suggest on that matter.
 

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you change gears, you change to matching reluctor or get fault code.
any shop sez otherwise I wouldnt be patronizing.
 

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.....the other said I didn't need one because of something that's already on the shaft of the gear thingy........
DO NOT take your car to that shop.

As mentioned above, you MUST have a reluctor ring that's specific to your gears. Swapping the reluctor from your current gears to the new gears will result in the ABS not working.

That shop should know that. Because of what they told you, they're either idiots......or liars. Either way, you don't want your car in their hands :mad: !!!!!!!

KW
 

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DO NOT take your car to that shop.

As mentioned above, you MUST have a reluctor ring that's specific to your gears. Swapping the reluctor from your current gears to the new gears will result in the ABS not working.

That shop should know that. Because of what they told you, they're either idiots......or liars. Either way, you don't want your car in their hands :mad: !!!!!!!

KW
Yeah I agree. Those guys dont know WTF they are talking about.
 

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Would you guys say this also applies to L99 engines ? As in bolt-ons for performance ? They have a better gas mileage but are always considered FAIL 99's any advice ??
 
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