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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well as of this morning I am an owner of a 95 DGGM roady 123K original owner, well the kid got it from his dad. Needs an opti and maybe a trans, the kid I bought it from had his autshop troubleshot it to the opti, after changing the PCM, Plugs and wires, fuel pump, etc, ran for a week after that and then quit, I guess i will see what I can find out. He ran out of money to fix it. but it by far has got to be the cleanest 450 dollar car I ever bought :D Paint is peeling on the upper panels but being from Michigan there is little to no rust on it, interior is dirty and stuff like that, but that is what they make cleaner for :) overall I think I got a good deal as I was leaving he did say that he thought reverse was starting to slip, so it may need a trans, but I have an extra.
Here are some pics.



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks man, what is funny Goldmaster found it to and put a post up onhere about it but I had already emailed the guy :) Not that Goldy really needed it or anything. here are some more pics I haven't taken it off the trailer yet, so they are limited, but here we go, oh and I checked the oil to make sure that there was no coolant or anything weird in it, looks good, well it needs changed, but it is ok, the reverse slipping thing could be the fluid and filter, I bet it was never changed, it is black, also hooked the battery up and it cranks and no knocking or anything that I could hear.
no rust in the usual spot


another of the clean engine bay hard to believe this is a salt belt car, looking at the paint or the clear peeling it must of had a bad spry from the factory it has been that way for sometime.

I would say the throttle body is clean enough :)

Again haven't really been in the front seat yet of this thing, looks like they yanked the original keyless since the box is gone and who knows what is under the dash.


Just some looking around under the hood I am going to have to yank the radiator out as the lower support is bent and it broke the plastic radiator support on top, easy enough there isn't any coolant in it anyway.




The left rear quarter damage



Drivers side


The only thing that is broken on the column is where the cylinder goes, I am betting that passkey was removed previously or something, hence the wire hanging out not sure

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Interior is dirty and missing some wood pieces but they are in the trunk it looks like


Now here is the opti the kid took off, I will take it apart and see what the insides look like, but it doesn't look old by any means.




 

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Nice. It's well worth the $450. Especially, since you have parts laying around to get it running. It would be a good daily driver.
 

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That thing looks pretty solid! Pull those door sill moldings and clean all the dirt and crud out before the pillars start to rust.
 

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Mike, I've got a upper radiator plate sitting in the garage if you want it.
 

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Could be as simple as an ICM, it's done me in before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah I shot the guy I bought it from an email and the steps he took were as follows,
The first problem was it would start and then die
- thought the PCM was bad so he changed that and it worked for a week then it wouldn't start
- he tested the ICM and coil, not really sure how he tested these units?!
- changed the fuel pump I guess, tank doesn't look like it was dropped ever so I don't know about that one, it is humming with the key on so it is probably ok but pressure could be low. And really judging by the first item I listed it could be as silly as a fuel filter. Goldy I think that the tank is drained, gauge is past "E"

That is all that I know right now. I will start dinking with it soon as I got an email tonight from a guy in Oklahoma that wants my Jeep, so that maybe a good thing :) WE will see how that pans out.

And now that I know it would start and then it would die, wonder it it was an airpump thing? it is still on there, which when it gets put back together it won't be. I think that I am going to pull up my puter and see if there are any DTC's but I doubt it as the battery was unhooked. It would be a good thing to check though.

There are a whole list of things to check I maybe take it off the trailer tonight and go out and dink with it a little. Not sure. I will let you know what I find out.
 

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I got one just like that a few years ago. None of the shops the previous owner could figure out what was wrong. I took it home and bypassed the vats and started right up.
 

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Good advice Goldy, Andy I will take you up on that offer, :)
Just swing by when ever. Got anything that might be useful for my Monte laying around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just swing by when ever. Got anything that might be useful for my Monte laying around?
I will see what I have, I may have something that you could use. :) I will give you a shout when I am ready
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
I got one just like that a few years ago. None of the shops the previous owner could figure out what was wrong. I took it home and bypassed the vats and started right up.
Yeah it isn't VATS on this one, as it will crank, I thought with VATS it wouldn't let you crank the car at all, like a starter kill. The VATS was bypassed years ago on the car with the remote start installation that was taken out. Good option to check though, I am going to bypass it if it isn't as I have a remote start/alarm in the garage for it anyway :)
We will see I may throw the old Opti on it and see if it fires for a quick second with out the water pump and stuff on to verify, I will at least check the voltages at the opti, could be the optical sensor. Not sure. I just find it wierd that the first problem is it ran and would die after start, which would kindof point to a fuel problem, he troubleshot it and then got it running and then it would run at all, I did email him asking what the symptoms were the second time, like if they were the same as the first or if it wouldn't start at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Went out and tinkered a bit with it and I threw the old opti back on it and no fire, crank all day long, fuel pressure seems good, voltage feeding the opti is good and when you unplug the opticonnector to check the input voltage the relay in the U/h would click, this would tell me that the optical sensor is good or at least it is passing something through it to tell the PCM to turn the fuel on.

Got an email from the kid I bought it from and the fuel filter and the pump were changed about a month ago and he said that the second time it started acting up it would miss really bad you could floor it and it wouldn't do anything it would just have no power, then it just wouldnt start, so I would think that either the coil and icm would be the problem or the rotor came apart in the opti, stay tuned.
 
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