[Guest]

George, and all tose other fog heads out there

I need your opinions on this set up. I have decided to do a little bit of a custom set up. 1)nitrouse works plate. 2)Nitrouse Express solenoids. 3)NOS fuel enrichment cell (1 gal.) 4)SX fuel pump and filter, Aeromotive regulator. 5)NOS controller, (progressive.) 6)MSD Multi-Step Retard. 7)Hobbs switches, and MSD On/Off activation switch. The fuel cell will be where, the battery is located. I will run -6 line from the bottle, to the solenoid. If the plate can support a 200hp shot. I will do that. If not; then it will be a 175hp shot. I had intended to 2 stage, like you George. Although I have all this stuff laying around. I figurd that I could just purchase the NOS controller and call it a day. I'm figuring that bringing in 200hp, progressively would be as good or similiar to 2 staging. I have a Jacobs MasterMind, but didn't like the way it performed on my Stang. I plan on using 116 NOS race gas in the fuel cell. The car tank will still use pump gas. I don't want to hurt the motor. Though George has proven that the stock short block can be leaned on; if done right. Insight will be greatly appreciated. TIA.

 

[Guest]

Hey Nick,

It's about time!!!

1) The one problem that plates behind the TB have is the distribution pattern is not as good as being injected before the TB.

2) NX seems to have fairly decent solenoids. I have the Iceman solenoids with a 0.093" orifice.

3) The 1 gallon fuel cell is on the small side. You should try to get a bit bigger one. You don't really need to use 116 octane, 93 works quite well for me with the 200 shot. Use it if it makes you feel better, but 200 is considered a "small" shot in high octane racing circles.

4) SX pumps have an excellent reputation, as does Aeromotive.

5) The progressive controller works well, except you will need to rebuild your solenoids quite often. Don't forget to add an extra safety N2O solenoid in line that only goes on and off. As an interesting footnote, none of the big N2O racers use pregressive controllers, most of them have 3 stages.

Don't forget the bottle heater, it's very important for safety and consistency. As far as line size, the NX -4AN race line will support 550hp and the braided NX -4AN line will support 400hp. No need to go to -6AN.

Get a good N2O filter. NOS makes the best one, it's a BIG blue one. A remote bottle opener is also a good safety feature.

One of my solenoids got a small piece of O-ring rubber in it and stuck open. I hit the switch which closed the bottle and all was well. It took me just a few minutes to open up the solenoid, clean it, and put it back together. The piece of rubber was only around 0.020" thick and maybe 0.040" long, VERY SMALL, about the size of a small piece of lint!!!

Get yourself a fuel pressure and N2O pressure gage in a highly visible spot. I NEVER start the motor if I see ANY pressure on the N2O gage. It's a good recipe for disaster. Watch your fuel pressure gage when you hit the button. If you're set-up properly, it should only dip 1psi for a fraction of a second.

Get yourself a ScanMaster so you can monitor the O2s while you're running. Don't forget window switches. You don't want to start below 3000, and if you still have the 4L60E, you will want to shut off the flow just before shifting, other wise I GUARANTEE you will be buying a new tranny.

Good luck and have fun

 

[Guest]

Thanks, George. Gotta live up to my "aim" already I do have the heater and opener. Very important for the street scene as well

I'll just use, the NOS line I have from a dry system (bottle to solenoid) I also have lying around. I May go with the biggest Compucar solenoid I can get. I remember the techs at Jacobs (that I called so much ) saying that they where the only solenoids they recommended that could take the pulsing. I will still run the extra one though George. Interesting on the comment about the plate setups. Thanks again.