Probably not worth it for a single pump, but if you plan to add more accessories, you can do what I did and add a mirror image factory fuse box to the driver's side. It's a bussed relay/fuse box meaning it has a lug for power and then you can wire in relay/fuse combos in that are all powered by that central lug.
What I did with mine was run a 2 gauge cable (IIRC it was 2, not looking at it now though) from the alternator to the fuse box. From there I ran a key on source from under the dash right out the grommet and straight to the fuse box to trigger the relays. From there, you just have to pin up some 10 gauge wire from your power side being fed by the alternator wire to the power post of the relay, and then pin up a relay ground wire. I used the key on source for my heat exchanger pump (like an electric water pump but for a blower) and also another relay to feed a key on accessory fuse box under dash. This way I have a 10 gauge feed going to an under dash fuse box where all the fuses are powered key on by the relay. Makes adding multiple in-cabin accessories like gauges very easy since you just need to run a power wire from the fuse box and a ground.
I also ran my twin fuel pumps using a trigger from the original fuel pump so they prime as factory. Think I might change that to solid key on though since the bypass regulator bleeds pressure quickly and makes cold starts on e85 a bitch.
I swear its much easier than I made it sound LOL
Alternative is just run it to any old relay harness (aeromotive makes a beautiful one with wire sleeving and everything) . Hook up the key on source to a whatever loose key on source you can find (you can pin one to a spare port in the fuse box, I believe there are a few, or splice into an existing key on wire under the dash if you don't have tools to pin metri-pack connectors), wire a 10 gauge power to the alternator, ground (self explanatory) and power out to your accessory.