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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone tell me if this cap looks bad or do I need to open it up to confirm it? Thanks in advance
 

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if opti was working, remove cap & rotor and clean, carefully, any oil or coolant that "may" be inside and put a MSD cap & rotor on. Use red loc tite on rotor screws
 

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Discussion Starter #6
if opti was working, remove cap & rotor and clean, carefully, any oil or coolant that "may" be inside and put a MSD cap & rotor on. Use red loc tite on rotor screws


That’s the thing. I’m not sure if my issue was the opti. I replaced it and everything I could think of the stop the stumbling/ misfire/ hesitation I’m having and still not having any luck. So I’ve been wondering if this opti ( the original) was bad to begin with
 

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That’s the thing. I’m not sure if my issue was the opti. I replaced it and everything I could think of the stop the stumbling/ misfire/ hesitation I’m having and still not having any luck. So I’ve been wondering if this opti ( the original) was bad to begin with
I, we, didn't know you had a misfire/stumble as your thread just asked about what anyone thought of your opti pic

..IDK what you replaced beyond opti….but if it was anything other than a original AC Delco opti (which are not available anymore)...it could be bad out of the box

with that said if the car is doing whatever it was doing before you swapped parts...it likely has nothing to do with the parts you swapped unless one of those parts is new but bad

always a good practice to find out the "why" before blindly replacing stuff. Your original opti has a cracked cap. That could cause arc which is a misfire but a new C&R would have resolved that if that was the cause. C&R on opti is a wear item just like C&R on any distributor
 

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That’s the thing. I’m not sure if my issue was the opti. I replaced it and everything I could think of the stop the stumbling/ misfire/ hesitation I’m having and still not having any luck. So I’ve been wondering if this opti ( the original) was bad to begin with
These engines are wildly susceptible to ignition problems when the grounds are bad. A common spot is on the stud on the driver's side head. There are about 5 grounds that terminate on the outboard ring terminal. Check all of them. If they're good, check the wiring (and pins) on the opti harness itself. That is another spot that has a tendency to get wonky.

EDIT: While I wholeheartedly agree with what Ballss said about finding the cause before throwing parts at a problem, in this case - with the opti literally already in his hands - it is a fools-errand to NOT put on a new cap and rotor. For that matter, how old is the water pump? How does the opti seal look in the timing cover? Crank seal? I am a firm believer in "well, as long as I am in here" preventative maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
These engines are wildly susceptible to ignition problems when the grounds are bad. A common spot is on the stud on the driver's side head. There are about 5 grounds that terminate on the outboard ring terminal. Check all of them. If they're good, check the wiring (and pins) on the opti harness itself. That is another spot that has a tendency to get wonky.

EDIT: While I wholeheartedly agree with what Ballss said about finding the cause before throwing parts at a problem, in this case - with the opti literally already in his hands - it is a fools-errand to NOT put on a new cap and rotor. For that matter, how old is the water pump? How does the opti seal look in the timing cover? Crank seal? I am a firm believer in "well, as long as I am in here" preventative maintenance.


Car has 119k miles on it. Been sitting before I got it. Have had new opti, plugs, wires, coil, ICM, IAV, MAF, starter, fuel filter, fuel pump and sending unit, and cats removed. Still not running right. Sad part is I work at a Chevy dealership as a painter and the technicians have been the one doing the work. They’ll get it running good but once I drive it for about 10 minutes it starts missing and hesitating. Last time after fuel pump
And filter it drove for 10 minutes then started acting like it wasn’t getting fuel. Could go over 25mph . I just need a mechanic in Atlanta that know these cars
 

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damn, even a GM Mechanic can't figure it out? Grounds are a common area that should not just be checked, but removed, cleaned up and dielectric greased and snuged back down. Check the "Sticky" on hesitation and misses as it may help you find/consider some other options. Maybe even direct the (cough) mechanic at your dealership of what to look for. Don't assume the new Fuel Pump/wiring is good. Use a gauge mounted you can see and monitor Pressure while driving.

On the Cap....just replace it if you have the Opti off. Really hard to tell from a single pic if it has an issue or not. It's a Wear Item that should be replaced. Just be sure to check the Drive for Wobble and trust that you have a Mitsubishi sensor in there and use a MSD replacement CapnRotor. Be sure to check/test Vent hose for Opti.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
damn, even a GM Mechanic can't figure it out? Grounds are a common area that should not just be checked, but removed, cleaned up and dielectric greased and snuged back down. Check the "Sticky" on hesitation and misses as it may help you find/consider some other options. Maybe even direct the (cough) mechanic at your dealership of what to look for. Don't assume the new Fuel Pump/wiring is good. Use a gauge mounted you can see and monitor Pressure while driving.



On the Cap....just replace it if you have the Opti off. Really hard to tell from a single pic if it has an issue or not. It's a Wear Item that should be replaced. Just be sure to check the Drive for Wobble and trust that you have a Mitsubishi sensor in there and use a MSD replacement CapnRotor. Be sure to check/test Vent hose for Opti.
Codes I got before full tune up

 

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Still not running right. Sad part is I work at a Chevy dealership as a painter and the technicians have been the one doing the work. They’ll get it running good but once I drive it for about 10 minutes it starts missing and hesitating. Last time after fuel pump
And filter it drove for 10 minutes then started acting like it wasn’t getting fuel. Could go over 25mph . I just need a mechanic in Atlanta that know these cars
well the dealership mechanics should have all the scan and diagnostic equipment to figure this out....although most line mechanics may not be versed in 20+ year old platform

If you can borrow a FP gauge with a hose on it so you can tape the gauge to windshield to confirm FP is not a problem when your stumble/problem occurs. FP may test fine with engine just idle or quick rev but under WOT pull it can nose dive. Best to rule fuel delivery in/out. If FP is the problem than the "new" pump is bad or the wiring to it..the later rather common to have bulkhead connectors melt
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well the dealership mechanics should have all the scan and diagnostic equipment to figure this out....although most line mechanics may not be versed in 20+ year old platform



If you can borrow a FP gauge with a hose on it so you can tape the gauge to windshield to confirm FP is not a problem when your stumble/problem occurs. FP may test fine with engine just idle or quick rev but under WOT pull it can nose dive. Best to rule fuel delivery in/out. If FP is the problem than the "new" pump is bad or the wiring to it..the later rather common to have bulkhead connectors melt


I’ll give that a shot next. Can’t even get it to crank now
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Only good thing is I haven’t had to pay for any of the work or parts a lot of labor swapping which I’m totally fine with
 

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Update: had to walk away from it then come back to it. Saw opti wasn’t fully flush. Broke everything down and reinstalled everything. Fired right up. Now before it ran poorly once it got warmed up. So letting it run for about 30 minutes before I do test drive
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I swear so old temp sensor in water pump was broken but fans worked. So I replaced it. Now with the new one fans won’t come on with it plugged up. But when I unplugged it both fans started running but CEL comes on
 

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Both fans will come on when you unplug the temp sensor on the WP. That also indicates your fans & relays are working. If fans do not come on when sensor is plugged in, the sensor or wiring to it is bad
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Both fans will come on when you unplug the temp sensor on the WP. That also indicates your fans & relays are working. If fans do not come on when sensor is plugged in, the sensor or wiring to it is bad


Thanks. Will get on that today
 

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Bad temperature sensor (on the WP) will cause hesitation, missing, and stutter. Sounds like you replaced it ... is it running better now?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Bad temperature sensor (on the WP) will cause hesitation, missing, and stutter. Sounds like you replaced it ... is it running better now?


Yea it is running better. That did fix the problem. Only issue I have now is my wife complaining I spend more time with the car than her


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