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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello this is my first 96 impala. I was looking to upgrade a stock enegine with the following items listed below mainly bolt on type parts. Looking for more HP with good sound. I prefer a car the idles with a nice sound but not loud and not aggresively loud when just cruising . All opinion, views and advice is welcomed. Car is currently all stock no modifications 127k miles. My goal is to get close to 400HP while still being able to drive it if I want to as a everyday car. Thanks


Borla Exhaust
BBK Performance Exhaust Headers
BBK Power -Plus Throttle Bodies 52 or 58(which would you reccomend)
K&N 57 Series FIPK Air Intake (50-State Legal)K&N 57 Series FIPK Air Intake
Jet Power-Flow Mass Air Sensor
Jet Performance ModuleStage 1 PCM or Jet Performance ModuleStage 2 PCM
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks you for replying and providing the link to the handbook. Was my idea bad or good?So I am looking over the handbook. Do you reccomend I do all mods in the handbook before I make any add-ons that I listed in my posts.
 

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IMHO:

Swap ALL the fluids in the car (excepting maybe the tranny juice - that can be a risk if it's never been done, as the detergents in the new juice can loosen up the built-up gunk hiding in the corners and send it thru the tranny - why don't tranny's have filters?)

Oil
Brake (good time to look at the brake pads while you are flushing and bleeding the brakes - may as well do the 'stealth bolt' mod while you are there - 'search' for that phrase on here.
Coolant

Fuel filter

oh hell, take a look at the lists here: http://s368.photobucket.com/user/TheFooserGuy/library/?sort=3&page=3

READ, FIRST - THEN start...

HTH

.
 

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OP

do not use Jet anything. do not replace MAF or TB

you will not hit 400 hp unless you do a head & cam swap.....but there are many modifications to do before that

first attend to basic service of the car (unless otherwise done) like:

oil/filter change
coolant flush/change (consider putting in 160 thermostat but you will need tune for this)
radiator hoses change
remove TB and clean with TB cleaner (also remove IAC and clean)
tranny filter & fluid
bleed brakes
plugs & wires if wires are original

after that:
cold air intake like a K&N
CAT back 2 1/2" exhaust system (DynoMax, Pypes, etc)
headers
160 thermostat if not done already
mail order "performance" tune

then:
gears
torque converter
valve springs
1:6 RR


after that:

Heads & cam (on higher mileage motors other internal engine work may be required)
new tune
 

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Thanks for responding. What does TP and IAC stand for that you reccomend I clean. Thanks for input
"TB" (not TP)=Throttle Body
IAC=Idle Air Control (which is attached to TB, bottom. Do not push or pull the printle when cleaning it

Get a can of TB spray cleaner (NOT carb cleaner) at auto part store. You need to remove TB from engine so you will also need a new TB gasket...around $4

pick up a Haynes service book at auto part store. If you are not mechanically inclined...best to leave service to qualified mechanic...but be prepared to spend $

you can just pull the intake off the TB, open them by hand and look inside...if all black & gunked up....it needs to be cleaned. Some just spray while it is on...that crud will just go into engine oil so do it before oil change. IMHO it should be removed and IAC passage & valve cleaned also
 

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TP = toilet paper
TB = throttle body
IAC = Idle Air Control Motor

Clean the TB SEPARATELY from the IAC, or just replace the IAC.

BALLSS, Fooser, and Moby all have the right idea; get to know your car as is, and clean/maintain/repair/refresh every detail you can easily get at BEFORE you start asking more of it.

Regarding the transmission, change the fluid & filter TWICE - 2X - within 2 months or less, that should get rid of the crud that may've been freed by the 1st change.
If transmission acts any worse after 2nd fluid-filter change, budget for a rebuild, instead of mods; it was probably gonna go when you tried to stand on it anyway.

As for the rest, the idea is simply to try to eliminate the likelihood that something will fail on you and take out something ELSE in the process.
Too many people hate cars because they started out modding before looking for things to fix or maintain, and those things came back to haunt them.
Plus, a good pcm tuner always prefers to work with a properly maintained car that runs well.
They silently despise working on a car that needs work.
A Driver who won't maintain their car often also thinks that the tuner can tune a bad-running car into good running shape - never a safe idea.

Unless you live where winter ambient temps regularly stay below freezing, a 160°F tstat and a BASIC tune are a very wise place to start.
Lots of people, both new and old to the Iron block LT1, don't know or care to understand how much GM held back with the OEM programming.

I only disagree with BALLS once:
I'd do either 3.42 or 3.73 with the 160°F tstat and the basic tune, if at all possible (often it's not; if not, 160°F tstat and basic tune 1st).
Choice between 3.42 or 3.73 depends on how you intend to drive it.
Look for the questionnaire; 3.73 can cost at least $400 more than you think, depending on your intents and purposes.
Better gearing actually makes things easier on your engine & transmission, in addition to more fun, as does a proper tune.

Do not bother with anything from JET.
It bears repeating.
Do not bother with anything from JET.

Also, your engine does not yet need a 52mm tb, a bigger MAF sensor, and a set of bigger fuel injectors.
I said AND not OR because the 3 should go together [with heads and cam that are NOT oem].
Specifically, your original heads and cam do not have enough performance potential to make any 1 of the 3, or all 3 in combination, cost-effective (unless you're trying to prove some kind of point?).
Hold off until you decide on the heads and cam package you set your heart on, THEN get all 3 together.
IFF/ when you need them - not yet - get a 52mm tb, a GM MAF from a Camaro/Firebird/Corvette, and 32lb/hr injectors at the same time.

If you enjoy your car responsibly, you'll be pleasantly surprised how much bang-for-your-buck these cars have in them.
 

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I'll add....what is your actual goal here? 400 hp to say you have 400 hp - and is that 400 at the flywheel or 400 at the tires? This is a huge difference and an important difference. Or is you goal to get to some speed at the race track or just a really fun car to drive and capable street machine that will surprise people? What is the actual goal. Once defined, we can go from there.

All the other advice so far is spot on. Heed the advice. And read and understand the link moby dick gave you. Lots of good info there. Oh, and cappy is right also - this gets very addicting.
 

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This is a long, dark and expensive road you are embarking upon young jedi.....
How long before we let him know about the Super Store?? cwm2
 

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Wait,there's a SuperStore?
 

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I like to see threads like this. the handbook and fooser's list is a BIG must have. Ive used it both from the beginning and havent had any problems. Now if I can pick Rocko's brain on this computer stuff I will be good to go.
 

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We're also having an Impala Shootout at Mason Dixon Dragway in MD on Sept. 27th.
Don't have to have the fastest car out there since its dial in bracket racing where
the slower car gets a head start. Come see other people's cars and get ideas.
Go look at the ECIRS (East Coast Impala Racing) schedule: https://sites.google.com/a/ecirs.org/ecirs/

Nab
 
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