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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is kinda of a repost from before the forum went down.

I'm had problems starting her up and it would throw a engine-check light. The next week it wouldn't crank over at all. I found it was a bad alternator connector/plug, that I have recently replaced.

Now, the engine starts very strong and after 15 or 20 seconds it shuts itself off again.

I'm not showing a check-engine light anymore, all the fuses are good, all connectors and plugs are attached that I can see. I was told it could be a bad MAF. I don't have my spare B-Body MAF, since I switch it with a F-Body one. Has anyone else come across something like this?

I'm looking for ideas of what this might be, as I'm trying to get to WCG5 this coming Sept.
 

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Olds -
I have seen MAF's go bad before, and I've also seen fuel pumps go bad, and with the same symptoms, if you have a scan tool, go ahead and scan the PCM for codes, not having a CEL doesn't mean there is nothing wrong, sometimes problems develop not causing a CEL, go ahead and have your PCM scaned and see what they can find in the memory.

Like Cletus said, unplug your MAF and see what the car does, if you have the correct software you can run speed density to diagnose a bad MAF, I had a problem quite similar to yours and it ended up being my fuel pump, it did had enough pressure to start the engine, but not enough to keep it running, so if you have a fuel pressure tester, go ahead and give it a test.

Also, there is a lot of sensors in these cars that can make you go crazy, like the ICM, take yours off and take it to Auto Zone to have it tested, make sure you test it first, they are expensive to buy.

I am glad to hear that you are getting your car ready for WCG5, let's make sure you get that bad boy back on the road again soon..

You can email me off line at [email protected] if you want, I can send you a spare PCM running speed density and you can test it that way, then you can find out for sure if it's your MAF that is bad, let me know.

Jose
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I haven't checked back here on my own tread in awhile. Work has been keeping me busy.

UPDATE guys = My engine starts and then immediately shuts off with the MAF removed. I do throw a cel, and sometimes I have to wait 1 or 2 min. before I can start her up again, otherwise she just keeps cranking. I used Wolf's spare B-body MAF, and it seemed to stay on about whole minute before shutting down again.
I also replaced the fuel filter and the ignition coil, started her up and she stayed on a little longer than a minute before dying again.
Sometimes, it throws a code and sometimes, not. It's always showing a Code 36 - Distribution Ignition; 180 pulse resolution...I hope it's not the opti,..again.
I have a spare PCM, borrowed from Wolf, that I need to try out too.

I'll see, if I can pick me up fuel pressure tester, and give it a go....thanks guys
 
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