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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for advice on how to build up my spare LT 1 for my 95 Roadmaster for more power for towing! I tow a 29 ft travel trailer now and have no issues with it power wise ot tranny wise. I now have 200000km's on it with no mechanical failures even with the extensive towing. But I want to start rebuilding the spare motor and want to build it with towing in mind.

I want to keep the factory iron heads but will modify with bigger valves, but what cam should I pick? How much overbore can the block take? I don't want a huge increase in power but would like some more torque. I would like to get into the 350+ ft/lbs of torque range at a low RPM. Any advice?
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
keep the stock cam, keep the stock sized valves, add new valve springs and 1.6 rr's. Add headers if you like, but you will probably get close to your 350 fwtq without them (or Dan's new tubular manifolds) As a nice touch, use the programmer of your choice to lean it up a bit up top. Maybe an additional tranny cooler for the towing.

-d
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm wondering how that 395 cam will do...

isn't it funny that the guy that wants to try it is recommending keeping the stock cam? :confused:
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You may consider one of the GM truck cams too. Do a search and you will find several discussions on this... Also, some long tube(4 into 1) headers I believe will offer more low end torque than regular headers..... You will probably want to stick with the stock converter too.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I have the 395 out of its box and looking at it right now, being sent away (again) until Christmas (for work), so it will most likely live in its cardboard box until New Year. It is hard to schedule time for the install as I am on the road quite a bit and usually have only a few days notice before I have to go.

{chuckling} Although, I am looking for a bit more than 350 ft*lbs.

If all CRM wants is 350 fwtq, then my suggestions would be a tad less costly than going with a cam and big valves (which, I am convinced will cost him torque down low).

Now, if CRM wants it at the rear wheels, then I would look at the 845, 227,zz3, and the 395. I got no particular objection if someone besides me is the guinea pig on this one...

[edit] to remove my feeble attempt at a joke.
-D
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
CanadianRoadMonster....


There are other places to get more "pulling power" from your car other than just the engine. Exhaust system is one. Bigger pipes..std 2 1/4" head pipes w/ 2" tailpipes to 2 1/2" all the way back (although you'll have to have the tailpipes for your wagon custom bent & remove the resonators) w/ an "X" pipe installed. Along with some "freeier-flowing" mufflers ( Walker 17749). What do you have for rear gears..? Changing to a lower ratio will help with the "pulling power" like maybe 3:42s or even 3:73 (depending on how much your weight you're pulling). Also, depending on how much weight you're pulling, possibly installing a seperate electric fan @ the std. trans oil cooler or even installing a larger cooler or both. This has nothing to do with "pulling power", but you may want to consider installing the front air dam pieces from a 9C1 car. The outter pieces redirect the air to the front brakes to keep them cooler.

Just my $.02....
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you are rebuilding the engine, I would stroke it to a 383. This will give you the added torque you are looking for. You can reuse your rods and just buy the correct Pistons and a cast 3.75 crank. Any machine shop that is worth anything should be able to clearance the block for minimal price, Or if your budget allows buy a rotating assembly from Scat. You do not need forged components for your application. You can still use the truck cam and have a great towing package!! As far as the heads I would just have the bowls pocket ported and a three angle valve job. Of course The easy bolt-ons are something to serously consider if you have not done so already.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jegs has a rotating assembly kit for about $1000. They use Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons, 5140 rods, and a cast Eagle crank. That would be for the high compression kit (11.4 with 58cc heads) but the lower compression kit is about $250 more. If you want to get the high compression kit, I'll trade you the pistons from the lower compression so you can use a smaller torquier cam safely. I want to use a big cam anyway :D
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the advice, headers will be part of the new engine package. Gearing will be going to 3:73. But I am looking for 350ft/lbs at the wheels, so that is about 400 at flywheel.
 
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