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Discussion Starter #1
Just purchased a sub, and I'm in the process of purchasing both 4x6's & 6x9's. I know I need a amp for the sub alone, and I'll also need another seperate amp for the speaker's!! 4 ohms, with about 50-75 watts to keep the speakers going in the car. Will I need anything else? Was planning on getting a better head unit later on once I've figured out which brand to go with. Kappa's all around with a Alpine amp. Also wanted to purchase some monster cables, but not quite sure about the amount and length.

Any other suggestion's? Thanks :rolleyes:
 
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I'm still in the process of installing my new stereo. Oh, BTW, driving for a week without rear door panels sucks.


First and only suggestion until i get my system a-thumpin, don't use 4x6's in the front doors. I have 6.5 components and just looking at them next to the stock 4x6's is simply laughable. It's a little extra work to fit them in the door but it sounds better than the stockers even without being able to make any sound :D
 
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I'd consider getting a new headunit in there as soon as you can (budget or time wise). Not only will it likely be a bit easier to hook everything up (having the proper connectors in the back), but it will greatly increase the sound quality. Just my .02
 
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I've Got The Infinity "Kapaa's" (6X9 3 Way & 4X6 Plates) In My 95 Caprice. Im Running The Speakers With a 4 Channel 75 Watt Per Channel Rockford Fosgate Amp. Im Also Using a MTX RTXO2A 3Way Crossover. My Head Unit Is An Alpine CDA-D857 Full Face. I Prefer To "Dial In" My Own Crossover Frequencies But You Will Need Some Kind Of Filter For The 6x9's And The 4X6's. You Can Get a Set Of 800hz Bass Blockers (For The 4X6's) And a Set Of 150hz Bass Blockers For The 6X9's From Crutchfield And Skip The Crossover All Together If You Like. The Bass Blockers Are a Simple Inline Plug In's To The + Terminals On Each Speaker. Also, If You Are Planning On Getting 4X6 Plate Infinity Kapaa's, You Will Need To Modify The Factory Door Speaker Mounts a Little (I Used a Dremel). You'll Also Need a Your Power, Ground And Remote Wires, RCA Cables The Length Of Where You Want To Mount The Amps. I Made 4 Custom L Brackets And Hung The 75 Watt Amp And Crossover In The Trunk Hanging From The Rear Speaker Deck Almost In Both Corners Of The Trunk. My Sub Is an Infinity Basslink And Is Mounted In The Drivers Side Corner Of The Trunk Also. I Used an 8 Gauge Power and Ground Wire (Make Sure These 2 Are The Same Gauge Wire). The Ground Wire Should Be As Short As Possible (Mine Is Grounded On The Metal Trunk Bracket). I Also Used a Small 3 Way Distribution Block 2 Split Up The Power Connections For All 3 Units. It All Depends On How Big Of a Sub Amp You Are Planning On Using That Dictates How Large The Power And Groung Wire Will Be? In My Case, The Total Wattage Was 275 Watts So 8 Gauge Was Fine. If Your Planning On Running a 500 to 1000 Watt Amp For The Sub, You'll Need 4 Gauge Wires. All The Remote Wire Has To Be Is 22 To 18 Gauge Wire Since There's Only a Small Amount Of Voltage Going Thru That. I Drilled a Hole In The Firewall And Put In a Rubber Grommet That I Ran The Power Wire Thru For The Amps. Be Prepared To "Take Your Time" On This Project And Above All "Do It Right". There' Nothing More Annoying Than Blowing Large Amp Fuses (I Have 1 Inline With My Power Wire) Because The Insulation Was Tore Off a Wire And Grounded Out From Improper Routing Of The Wires.......Mike
 
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