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Discussion Starter #1
Okay I know there is something out here to center up my rear tires in the wheel well of my 9c1. I just had new arms put on due to a recall notice but it did not move my tires back. I have heard of kits to move em back. Anyone please know?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Remember: If you get the extended lowers, you also have to get extended (or adjustable) uppers, to keep the diff pinion angle right. I got the Metco's installed a few months ago and love them; they really firmed up and settled the rear. And don't forget an extended driveshaft is also required (I believe, but it IS an arguable point). Do a search for the pro's and con's; it's all here on the forum.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I ordered my kit from BRM with adjustable uppers. How much is need to add for the drive line 3/4" also?

These cars love my wallet but it just gets more fun to drive.

NOS=549.95
pistons=368.00
cam=239.98
valve train=648.33
crank, rods, balancer, flex plate 1200.00
SSRI 319.00
z cluster and donor $330.00
headers=550.00
need I go on all this in less than a week. I know some really go wild but this is just a cruiser no real show involved.

But I know it will go faster and faster and fast, hey did I say it might go faster? :confused:
:rolleyes: :D
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I sell the BMR's for $289.90 with the fixed upper or $349.90 with the adjustable uppers.

Both prices include shipping.

You might want to think about a longer drive shaft too.

Inland Empire $350.00 shipped
Dynotech Engineering $440.00 shipped.

Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter #6
When you say "think about a longer driveshaft" is that because the arms can be installed with the original driveshaft?
 
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Discussion Starter #7
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Occam:
When you say "think about a longer driveshaft" is that because the arms can be installed with the original driveshaft?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Exactly, you can do it without doing a new shaft or extending the old one. You are out of GM "spec" for proper amount of yoke in the back of the transmision. You can wipe out the tailshaft bushing among other things.

Some have done it with no problems, but more I think have had problems.

 
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Discussion Starter #8
I just got my extended uppers and lowers from [email protected] today. WOOHOO!!!

Damn these things are beefy.

Here are some pics of the parts.







I also got the loop (above).

Thanks, Mike.

-Dan
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks, No Limits, that's what it sounded like. Looks like I'll have to factor in the cost of the extended driveshaft when I do the mod....can't forget the stainless steel brakeline that will have to be custom made to replace the short one as well.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
If you do the 3/4" extension, you will need the extended driveshaft. If you only do the 1/2" extension you might not. I can't remember who sells the 1/2" kit. I think it was Hochkis.


Mav
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Driveshaft is a must.. Do an aluminum at a minimum. If you do 3.73 gears later you will do better to get the best you can get now. 3.5" will be a better diameter then the 3" most people get.

I have 3" aluminum on mine. The stock length shaft HAS ruined my transmission. I am currently saving some $$$ to get this used one installed in my car but have not yet done it due to putting a new rear end in my car.

Also be aware that the rear end will still be shifted slightly to the passenger side. Unless you get both adjustable uppers and lowers this will be a problem.

It is good you got the adjustable uppers though since you can adjust your Pinion angle for proper use. Apparently the factory had 3 different length arms and use one according to the installed length required.

The shift to the right is due to the hole puncher at the factory being programmed wrong. GM has a fix for this but it has to do with slotting the frame holes. Adjustable lowers would work better...

And don't assume the adjustable uppers are adjusted to the right length for your car.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Hi I was going to do this also :confused: What sounds good to me is the 1/2 Hotchkis will be a better fix then stock with less expen. I would like to here from others on what is needed for a good upgrade to a daily driver/likes to go to the 1/4 track also. I was going to go wiyh BMR but I did not know of having to extend brake lines and a new bigger driveshaft. Please speak up SS owners!! :confused:
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I have over 50k on my extended BMR trailing arms. Stock drive shaft and stock 5th brake line. All is running great. After installation of the extended arms just check to be sure there is some slack in the 5th brake line with the axle fully extended. There are several others in our club with the same setup and the same results. If you go by the book you should extend the drive shaft also. But my bet is that most Impala's and Caprice's out there are running fine without the new drive shaft. If you can cover the extra cost go for it but I would not let the drive shaft length keep you from installing extended arms. Now using extended arms instead of stock length is also a frequently debated topic. As far as an extended 5th brake line, I have not heard of one. If there is one, SS or rubber I would change to it.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
You are talking about which brake line when you say 5th ? any pic`s of it :confused: So BMR lower extened that is 3/4in more (to center wheel)? and upper adjustable for angle adjustment. What are pro`s & con`s of this set up? Thanks for info
 
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Discussion Starter #17
What he is refering to is the flex, "Rubber" brake hose that runs from the steel line on the body, to the rear axel. With the 3/4 inch extension the brake hose works but it would be nice if someone could find a replacement slightly longer. I have never heard of anyone having a failure.
Perhaps someone on the forum with access to brake hose catalogs and parts could research this and find a replacement.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by elixir:
Adjustable lowers would work better...
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Who makes adjustable lowers????
 
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