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Discussion Starter #1
How much camber do you guys run?
I'm running -1.3 Left -1.7 right.

Tires are wearing evenly. I may reduce the passenger side on day, when the air pump leaves...
 

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I run mine within FSM specs. If you are racing, that is not covered in the FSM.
 

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Yeah, it all depends how hard and often you are pushing it in the turns. If you are, that might give you the best wear and handling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not racing it. But there is no more outer tread block wear. It takes exit ramps very nicely for 4000lbs. I see no reason not to do negative camber.. except I had a massive shim stack, and I had to go with solid corvette spacers..
 

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I don't have any of my rides that have positive camber, not even zero. And a throw back tidbit, way back in the day, when radials were first coming out, you didn't want zero as their design made them feel 'floaty'.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've been noticing since the OEM springs are 25 years old, and sagging.. The camber goes more negative.
 

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People with drop springs have to compensate for negative camber at the rate of 0.030" of shims for each 1/2 inch of drop. If the sag is half of an inch, remove 0.030 shim from each stack, and you will be back to spec..
 

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It is not a linear number .
You cant say change height this much, change shim this much.
The degrees per inch changes as the inner pivot height relative to upper joint increases.
Matter of fact, some of the taller cars will actually add positive the first bit of downward ride height change.
Hence the attraction of tall ball joints for some applications to get the neg camber gain starting earlier and faster.

The factory charts showing desired caster +camber change vs shim change are only a theoretical "on paper" guide.
Out in the real world things don't quite work that way.
I did alignment work for a long time
Many a time I would go to make the most minor shim change on a car, loosen the nuts and the pivot would shift on the studs.
Caster would change with no shim change.
 

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In the case of the 91-96 B bodies, they go negative only when dropped. Your car is proof of that.
 

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duplicate
 

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Of course you can make them go negative. They are made to be adjustable. No one would purposely make them go negative unless they were racing. With stock parts, like yours, the camber went negative when the springs weakened. Changing that back to "0" requires removing shims. The more the springs sag, the more negative the camber will become. You are not changing to non OEM parts, so the shaft, arms, and all other aftermarket parts are irrelevant. You are working with fixing the issue with the car remaining stock. What I stated is true for the car in stock configuration. You can put a C/C gauge on it and check it, if you want to, but you will find that my experience is going to prove out, and you will be within specs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
No one would purposely make them go negative unless they were racing.
You're old school Fred. The Germans went to negative camber way before the US did. Negative camber is the only way to go for daily drivers, and all cars. Tire wear is superior.
There is not 1 downside to negative camber on a street car.
 

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The downside is adverse tire wear with too much negative camber. You need to have the camber that fits your driving habits. If 0 camber gives you the most even tire wear, that is what you need. What the Germans do or did has no bearing on an American produced B-body made in the 1990s.
 

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Whatever camber works for your driving style is the correct camber for you. Mine work best at the factory specs. Too much toe-in will do the same damage to your tires. You can not tell the damage apart from incorrect camber wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
A trained eye can see toe in wear, as it only affects the inner tread blocks. Where as -camber wear, the entire face of the tire will be slanted towards the inside.
 

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In my experience, toe in wear will favor (wear)the outside edge.
Extreme toe in will "shingle " the tread right across. (rubbing your hand across the tread will be smoother in one direction than the other.
Toe OUT will favor the inside edge more.
Extreme toe out, again shingling the entire tread but in opposite direction.
 

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In my experience, toe in wear will favor (wear)the outside edge.
Extreme toe in will "shingle " the tread right across. (rubbing your hand across the tread will be smoother in one direction than the other.
Toe OUT will favor the inside edge more.
Extreme toe out, again shingling the entire tread but in opposite direction.
Correct.



 
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