[4DoorSS]

I've had Gary's 1/0 battery cable kit for years now and never had any kind of electrical issues, for how often I drive the car it's probably not worth doing much past that, but has anyone with the kit done a few extra grounds? I only ask cause the kit I had on my TBSS had about 4 extra grounds, I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to use some of the spare 4 gauge wiring I have lying around and go from the battery to engine bolt down to the frame.

Grounding seems like one of those things a lot of people overlook, as stupid as it sounds I swear on the cars I've done this to they idle smoother (could be placebo) and I don't run into any dimming even with a large sub amp. Currently doing this to my TL, found a few premade Grote 1 gauge cables that were dirt cheap and should work well.

If you see a lot of electrical problems people ask about, a majority of them are usually resolved due to a bad ground. Having more gorunds can only help eliminate some of these issues.

Additional grounds like the Frame to the Body is not common but a lot of people do it. I would say the more accesories or aftermarket items you add, like stereo's, amps and such, you can benefit from better grounding of the entire car. Heck, a stock vehicle could probably benefit from better/more ground locations.

Just be sure that in any areas where there is movement, like the Engine to the Frame or Body, you use some flexible grounding cable to allow for Drivetrain movement. On a ground from the body to the Frame, you could probably go with something more ridgid.

 

[Toms9C1]

Having an issue with my lights going dim, digging out my tools after work today!

 

[lmcclure]

im sorry if i opened this forum again but i am at my very wits end on my wagon, it would charge just fine when i first started it up but as soon as it warmes up it will go down to less then 13 volts, im going to check these grounds tomorrow after work, hopefully i can get these damn gremlins out of it

 

[shudahadaV8]

Imcclure ... the alternator in your car "runs" the car and as an aside, it charges your battery with it's extra "juice." Huh? The battery does not drain when you are running the car unless your alternator is not doing "its" job (or the wiring is seriously messed up). Or you have a 10,000 watt stereo in your trunk.

That said, if the battery will charge when you first start the car (greater than 14 volts), and then starts to drop ... it's not the wiring (directly). It doesn't take a great wiring connection to charge the battery ... even a lousy rusty connection will charge the battery (albeit with some heat generated at the connection and maybe slowly) ... BUT STILL it won't cause a discharge.

There are devices in the alternator that can behave oddly when stressed under heat. They might start not being able to "run" the car when the alternator warms up. As a result, the battery may have to help and thus ... discharges itself.

If you have too many accessories on the car and after a few minutes of running you turn them all on and say they collectively draw 120 Amps and your alternator is only capable of 100 Amps ... well, guess where the extra 20 Amps comes from ... yep, the battery. It will thus discharge. But if you start the car and do nothing but watch it and the battery starts charging and then starts to discharge when the engine warms up ... it's not the wiring, look to the alternator (or that 10,000 watt stereo in the trunk).

 

[lmcclure]

i forgot to mention that, i was so mad and about to the point of sitting it a blaze(still am) that i took the old alternator to oreillys, the guy tested it 5 times, all 5 times it passed, i said screw it and got a new alternator, put it in and did the exact same thing, i guess im out 85 bucks for that and probibly going to have to get a 120 amp or better, i dont have anything other than an aftermarket cd player in the car with no other audio equipment, everything else is as factory as it can be accessory wise

 

[4DoorSS]

What you are running should not cause any excessive draw. I would completely go over all the Grounds and Battery connections. The alty should be keeping the voltage at 14+ volts the whole time the car is running.

Since your new alty is displaying the same symptoms, I would be sure to pull ALL your main Ground and Positive connections from the battery, clean them well and reattach with some dieletric grease. You could also have some battey cables that are breaking down internally and causing some resistance. If you decide to go with new cables, I would highly recommend a set from Gary at Innovativewiring.com.....Great Product!

 

[lmcclure]

i planed on going through and repalcing all of the cables, including the grounding straps, and throwing in a couple more grounds along with the big 3 even tho im not running a system

 

[lmcclure]

ok, i went to checking cables, on the 200 ohm setting all of the cables including the new cables tested at .6 ohms, the junction box tested at 2.6 ohms on the same setting, is it possible to take that junction box completely out or? i am so tired or playing catch up...

 

[FuzzyNutzGoneWild]

I'm kind of curious about the ground that goes from the ABS unit to the radiator support brace. The wire completely broke off at the ABS unit and I have no way of getting it out or adding to it. I do eventually plan on taking out the ABS and some day down the road installing a line lock. I am looking for some suggestions on what should be done to compensate for the broken wire now..

 

[1slow96]

If all it grounds is a non-functioning ABS box,I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[FuzzyNutzGoneWild]

I haven't done anything else to it so yeah, all that it would be grounding is the ABS.

 

[AZ Roadmaster]

My fix

I drilled a hole a few inches behind the factory ground into double walled metal. Next I cleaned off the paint, coated with dielectric grease and installed a the battery post. I made a short 0 gauge cable to fit and removed the battery tray to clean it up a little (minimal rust . cleaned and reinstalled the battery- DONE! BTW I made my own 0 gauge battery cables and grounds, haven't installed the starter lead yet, waiting for starter to die then do it once.

 

[Shilaeli Hugger]

well i regrounded my battery. it suddenly gave me all kinds of fits when the ground was never attatched. i did a temp set up for now just to get things back to functioning.

i like AZ roadmasters pics. did you just cut the "factory" ends off the main cable and put new copper end on it with longer terminal?

 

[AZ Roadmaster]

made my own 0 gauge battery cables and grounds, haven't installed the starter lead yet, waiting for starter to die then do it once.

 

[DMAC]

No electronic power

Ok I have had the same problem you explained about the slow start. For about a year my 96 would jus click and not start. I would. Have to continue to turn the car on before it started over.

I held the ignition key turned over too long and it short circuited something???? I have no power at all when turning the key over. The interior lights don't work nor dash emblems.

First I researched the problem and thought it was the ignition coil and module. I changed them both. Checked the battery, ground wires, and fuses.

Anyone know what the hell is going with my car?!!! Oh my headlights work! The only electronic getting power!

 

[1slow96]

After checking the large maxi-fuses,I'd move on to the ignition switch itself. Carefully inspect the connector(s) for evidence of damage/wear as well...

 

[CHILNLO]

Ok so has anybody found the best way to get a solid connection to the inner fender ground? Mine is stripped and lately have been having rough starts and the radio sometimes goes to factory mode after some starts.

 

[4DoorSS]

Ok so has anybody found the best way to get a solid connection to the inner fender ground? Mine is stripped and lately have been having rough starts and the radio sometimes goes to factory mode after some starts.

You talking about the Ground on the fender behind the battery area? If so, just look earlier in this thread. I removed the Sheet metal Screw and Star Washer in favor of a NutSert. I think others have also mounted a Stud/Bolt to the fender to anchor the ground wire to.

 

[CHILNLO]

You talking about the Ground on the fender behind the battery area? If so, just look earlier in this thread. I removed the Sheet metal Screw and Star Washer in favor of a NutSert. I think others have also mounted a Stud/Bolt to the fender to anchor the ground wire to.

I saw that. Is it still holding up?

 

[4DoorSS]

I saw that. Is it still holding up?

Yes it is. No problems with it at all and my lights and electrical system still work great....better than stock. Keep in mind that I did upgrade my battery cables and cleaned up all the grounds at the same time which only help to improve the entire system.

The nutserts I used are aluminum and have been fine. there are Steel inserts you could get but I was concerned about rust but there are also Stainless nutserts available too. I just used what was available at HF with their kit.

IIRC - if you want to use a bolt or something else in that location, it is "boxed" behind the hole that was used for the SheetMetal screw and you can't get behind it. You could try a different area of the fender if you want to go with something like that and drill a new hole and have access to the backside.