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Took about 30 mins to make this new bar. I found a old rusty one at a local pick and pull for $5 off a 92 Roadmaster to copy the measurements.
I made mine just a tad heavier.
These things are super easy to make. All I used was a press and a drill press machine with a special bit.
Does any company make these yet?
 

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Actually welding a cross bar in between the frame rails is much studier than most any bolt on setup.
 

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Did the same with some 1" EMT but didn't slot the holes so less chance of moving/slipping. Probably 20 years ago.
 

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Does any company make these yet?
Yes, as linked in the above post, MMS Stainless has them for $55 and polished stainless so they won't rust.

They also sell other items for our cars like other body braces and assorted engine bay dress up items and hardware. Bought from them many times and very good products and pricing.
 

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Stainless will rust if it is in contact with a piece of non-stainless. The non-stainless contaminates the stainless at the point of contact, and it does rust there.
 

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If only they would fit the wagons! Im just going to put a trailer hitch on mine, does the same thing. Up front I can use the Fcar touring brace...Speaking of wagon rear ends. Does anyone know if any of the 77-96 Chevy Bbody wagons had rear disc brakes? Or were they all drum?
 

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As far as I know no disc brakes on wagon rears from GM. But Navy Lifer (Bill Harper) has a kit available to convert wagon drums to disc. I have one, not yet installed.
Ken
 

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Disc kit

As far as I know no disc brakes on wagon rears from GM. But Navy Lifer (Bill Harper) has a kit available to convert wagon drums to disc. I have one, not yet installed.
Ken
Ive seen that. Im wondering if a pick up truck rear end with the mounting hardware relocated would work too though. Then Im still staying GM OE parts...
 

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Wasn't this "brace" which was on roadmaster sedans more for reducing "harmonics" vs being a "frame brace"?

I would assume beyond buying one you could easily make one and make it out of something "stronger" if the goal is to make a rear brace more similar to the Pro Touring front bar brace, or other home made versions of it.
 

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I agree

Wasn't this "brace" which was on roadmaster sedans more for reducing "harmonics" vs being a "frame brace"?

I would assume beyond buying one you could easily make one and make it out of something "stronger" if the goal is to make a rear brace more similar to the Pro Touring front bar brace, or other home made versions of it.
I would have to agree. When you look at the Pro Touring brace, that thing is SOLID. Just a piece of exhaust pipe may help the harmonics sure, and if you wedge it in and weld it then it will probably stiffen things up. But, if you were to use one more like the Pro Touring model, it would seem to me that it would help harmonics AND be a very solid frame brace. And, Im also of the welded is better crowd when it comes to anything designed to strengthen the frame. A bolt one can and will flex more than a welded unit.
 

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Agree weld in is better. Much like the bolt in subframe connectors for mustangs proved useless.

With that said. Removing the gas tank for pump R&R becomes a real pain with one of these. Had to remove the bolt in one to do so. Or in the case of a welded one, one would have to removed the filler neck from the tank before you can drop it. Then you have an open tank with fuel sloshing around even it you did run it dry.

Food for thought.
 

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Trailer hitch

Agree weld in is better. Much like the bolt in subframe connectors for mustangs proved useless.

With that said. Removing the gas tank for pump R&R becomes a real pain with one of these. Had to remove the bolt in one to do so. Or in the case of a welded one, one would have to removed the filler neck from the tank before you can drop it. Then you have an open tank with fuel sloshing around even it you did run it dry.

Food for thought.
Very true. I was planning on using a trailer hitch to the same effect. I suppose Id have the same problem as well...
 

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Wasn't this "brace" which was on roadmaster sedans more for reducing "harmonics" vs being a "frame brace"?

QUOTE]

Post 4 of this thread seems to echo that comment and remember that being mentioned in other threads....

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/33-roadmaster/1277961-buick-brace.html

Did it seem to help stiffen things up on my car? Yes, but then again my car always seems to run better after a Wash too.0:) So maybe it's just a Placebo effect, but what the hell, it wasn't that hard to remove 4 bolts to install.

More info here.....

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/17-suspension/266530-buick-brace-bar.html
 

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With that said. Removing the gas tank for pump R&R becomes a real pain with one of these. Had to remove the bolt in one to do so. Or in the case of a welded one, one would have to removed the filler neck from the tank before you can drop it. Then you have an open tank with fuel sloshing around even it you did run it dry.

Food for thought.
Really? - Dropped my tank many times (sighhhhh :crying:) and was never a problem for me.

However, I do remove the Filler Hose from the Fuel Tank, cover it with a plastic bag/secured with a clamp or Rubber Band so nothing spills out or gets in and drop the tank. It would seem to me this is better as you don't have the Filler Tube still attached with the Flexible hose section in the middle. Nor do you have to bother with removing the 2 bolts for the filler tube at the License Plate area.

I also remove the 2 bolts at the Front of the tank straps and let the straps swing backwards. This also seems to contradict what I've seen in other instructions/video's but just find it much easier this way.

EDIT - Kinda like what you see in this pic with the plastic over the opening. Although it does look like I had the Filler tube removed anyway. Not sure why but this was when I did the Racetronix install so maybe the tube was in my way for that....

 

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Ive seen that. Im wondering if a pick up truck rear end with the mounting hardware relocated would work too though. Then Im still staying GM OE parts...
Trucks don't have the 'ears' on the cast iron center section for the wagon upper control arms. It would be a challenge to get ears properly attached to a truck housing.
Ken
 

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Stupid ears

Trucks don't have the 'ears' on the cast iron center section for the wagon upper control arms. It would be a challenge to get ears properly attached to a truck housing.
Ken
So, an Imp SS axle, with a little bit of wheel spacing is going to be my best option as far as Ive gathered today.
 

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Rear axle

So, an Imp SS axle, with a little bit of wheel spacing is going to be my best option as far as Ive gathered today.
Nope, Im keepin my wagon rear end. Just going to regear it, and add a posi unit. Drum brakes will do me just fine for now seeing as how this car is not being built to be a race machine. I just want something more fun and competent, that I can drive a little harder with more confidence. Now, down the road, when I can afford a GM Performance 383 and tranny, then I will look into a different custom rear end, or disc brake conversion. Any of you have plenty of experience with this THjunk OD tranny I have in this wagon? Its about burnt up I think...It slips into and out of OD while cruising. And thats under, and NOT under load. Just cruising along it will start slipping, and it wont stop. So, we just avoid OD and use D only for now. Any thoughts?
 

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Since I have a roll pan on my wagon, the rear bumper had to be removed. I put a piece of 2X2 angle iron (steel) across the frame rails to give the rear a little protection. I guess it would be about the same as a piece of tubing.


If you are going to put a posi in the rear, get a Detroit TrueTrac. They are recommended.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
All the 93 thru 96 Fleetwoods had one welded in from the factory. I just look a mine today after installing a 95 9c1 disc brake rear end. I wonder why all the Bbodies did not get them.
 
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