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bilstein shocks, hotchkis springs, hotchkis steering rebuild kit, hotchkis sway bars, hotchkis xtend rear pack, moog front upper and lower control arms, energy suspension body mounts.

Gonna buy that from summit racing. Am I missing anything ? I see QA1 also sells packages any word on those? Let me know what you think of this set up 1996 impala ss. I’m going with 22” wheels are coil overs a better route ? Also which bumpstops ?ZQ8?

Thanks
 

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Rock hard body bushings and 22" wheels with one inch sidewall tires=high impact motoring,very uncomfortable ride.
Xtend rear? Purely cosmetic and will only make the high impact more so, and screw up your pinion angle and rear suspension geometry. Plus everyone will know you care more about cosmetics than anything else. Not good.
OEM spec after market control arms do everything better than Xtend by anyone. 17" wheels and great tires will be close to half the weight of 22" with any tire. Unsprung weight is your enemy, the more you bolt on, the worse will be your braking, acceleration, ride and handling. When you're making 500 RWHP then maybe 18" might be a worthy trade off for slightly better acceleration but ride, braking and handling will still be less than optimal. Yes lots of exotic cars use 18-22" set ups but that's mostly marketing (with big brakes that's mostly marketing too) If anyone made a great 15" high performance tire (no one does) the optimal set up would be 295/50 -15's on 15 X 8.5" wheels. For a cushy ride, 275/60-15. In a true HP tire both would be light weight but 15" HP tires? Not available though medium performance tires are.
 

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PolyGraphite (NOT polyurethane) body mounts come in different stiffness options. Pick the softer ones.

Since you're gonna upgrade the body mounts, you can realign the body to the frame so that the left rear wheel well doesn't look as weird, plus you keep the superior suspension geometry.

Can't believe scot forgot to mention! Instead of hotchkis swaybars, keep the OEM swaybars and stiffen the frame.
You don't need a tow hitch to join the rear frame horns, I'm sure you'll find something that looks better.
Join the front frame horns with a front frame chassis brace.

Instead of aftermarket rear control arms which will just stress the mounting points -- I was looking for Dick Miller Racing's Rear Triangulation Braces, but I can no longer find them on Dick Miller Racing's website.
Rear Triangulation Braces are still a great idea, though; the rear trailing arms will work much better.

17" tires have more options in terms of tire height and performance rubber compounds. If you find 17"x8.5" or 17"x9.0" wheels that are lighter than OEM with a similar load rating, you'll gain both better handling and better ride.
22" wheels, even with 29" tall tires, will make you drive around even the tiniest road imperfections.
With 235/75R15 and 255/70R15 tires I don't give a schitt how bad the roads are.

ZQ8 bumpstops are notorious for coming apart after a while. Polyurethane or PolyGraphite bumpstops will last longer and come in different stiffness options.

(I've been paying attention to scot's previous posts.)
 

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Rock hard body bushings and 22" wheels with one inch sidewall tires=high impact motoring,very uncomfortable ride.
Xtend rear? Purely cosmetic and will only make the high impact more so, and screw up your pinion angle and rear suspension geometry. Plus everyone will know you care more about cosmetics than anything else. Not good.
OEM spec after market control arms do everything better than Xtend by anyone. 17" wheels and great tires will be close to half the weight of 22" with any tire. Unsprung weight is your enemy, the more you bolt on, the worse will be your braking, acceleration, ride and handling. When you're making 500 RWHP then maybe 18" might be a worthy trade off for slightly better acceleration but ride, braking and handling will still be less than optimal. Yes lots of exotic cars use 18-22" set ups but that's mostly marketing (with big brakes that's mostly marketing too) If anyone made a great 15" high performance tire (no one does) the optimal set up would be 295/50 -15's on 15 X 8.5" wheels. For a cushy ride, 275/60-15. In a true HP tire both would be light weight but 15" HP tires? Not available though medium performance tires are.
hi I am also trying to change out my suspension. I don't know too much about the parts that need to be changed but I know I want better handling with the car. im gonna get 22s on the car too. can you point me in the right direction to parts I will need to get a more comfortable/better handling. thanks
 

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"...but I know I want better handling with the car. im gonna get 22s on the car too. can you point me in the right direction to parts I will need to get a more comfortable/better handling. thanks"

You read my previous post. Please realize 22's and better handling is like "I'm 5'2 and want to play in the NBA" ...
Closest you can get is soft springs (FE1 cushy or similar) with a high quality soft shock (Bilstein 1044-0929). To offset how soft those are use any solid 1 1/4" F+R sway bars or hollow 1 3/8" bars (equal roll resistance roughly)
Solid 1 3/8" bars will create better handling but are less comfortable. On 22's the taller the sidewall (a 40 series vs a 30 or God help you a 20 series tire) the more comfortable will be the ride. Like the extend control arms, 22's are purely cosmetic at the expense of ride, handling, braking and even acceleration. Physics, just like a 4'9 girl in the NBA. Hard to see without cringing.
 

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Dick Miller Rear Suspension Triangulation Bars for Impala SS, ’77 – ’96 GM B-Body Sedan
I was looking for Dick Miller Racing's Rear Triangulation Braces, but I can no longer find them on Dick Miller Racing's website.
Rear Triangulation Braces are still a great idea, though; the rear trailing arms will work much better.

Can't believe scot forgot to mention! Instead of hotchkis swaybars, keep the OEM swaybars and stiffen the frame.
Beyond my previous post:
22's make scot forget . Understandably. Nice ride with 22's? Throw the sway bars down the stairs. Like "throw the baby down the stairs a cookie". That be code. It's not going to handle as well as any 1931 model year car anyway with 22's.

With 235/75R15 and 255/70R15 tires I don't give a schitt how bad the roads are.
Just be sure to get the WIDE whitewalls. Oh wait, they are for the 22's. Not.
 

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Drop the wheel size to 20", don't forget the full steering: idler, centre link, tie rods etc
 

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I went with the QA-1 Track II Sport handling kit w/ coil over springs, fully adjustable shocks, extended lower rear control arms and adjustable rear upper control arms,
GM Police/Taxi steering gears, Hotchkiss springs, standard ride height. Heavy sway bars F/R, Poly bushings and ball joints. very positive ride and handling, Built it with auto-cross in mind. I'm very pleased with the handling and ride.
Am finishing up the car, hope to post photos of all the work, as soon as I figure out how to put photos on the site.I'll post it for "Ride of the Month", with photos and dyno results.
 

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scottdog:
If autocross is on your mind, Sam Strano runs Stranoparts
68 S White St, Brookville, PA 15825

Phone: (814) 849-3417
He's won more F-body Showroom Stock championships than I can count and knows something about B-bodies too. If you think I'm over stating the negatives of extended control arms, give him a call. He's objective as well and sells everything so ask him. He also has some in depth knowledge of alignment he'll freely give you, especially for autocross.
 

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"...but I know I want better handling with the car. im gonna get 22s on the car too. can you point me in the right direction to parts I will need to get a more comfortable/better handling. thanks"

You read my previous post. Please realize 22's and better handling is like "I'm 5'2 and want to play in the NBA" ...
Closest you can get is soft springs (FE1 cushy or similar) with a high quality soft shock (Bilstein 1044-0929). To offset how soft those are use any solid 1 1/4" F+R sway bars or hollow 1 3/8" bars (equal roll resistance roughly)
Solid 1 3/8" bars will create better handling but are less comfortable. On 22's the taller the sidewall (a 40 series vs a 30 or God help you a 20 series tire) the more comfortable will be the ride. Like the extend control arms, 22's are purely cosmetic at the expense of ride, handling, braking and even acceleration. Physics, just like a 4'9 girl in the NBA. Hard to see without cringing.
makes sense. thank you
 

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I have 22’s and they aren’t a bad ride.... compared to my 13’s 100 spoke knock-off daytons . (Knock offs meaning they were held on by one center nut you need a lead hammer to loosen and tighten. They rode on a plate that was attached to the studs)

But honestly unless your Donk drag racing 22’s are purely cosmetic...and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that. You like what you like.


Heavy wheels, they wear everything down over a shorter period of time. I always recommend upgrading the components directly effected.

I am doing a full suspension, steering, and brake upgrade.... to accommodate my 22’s. About the only issue i have had is that the previous owner neglected getting a proper alignment after I replaced his front end... so he ate through in just s few thousand miles brand new $300 tires. So much good tread snd the inners were chewed to the wires. I bought it so its my problem lol.

Very important if you go with 22’s or bigger accommodate and align properly for longevity and wallet sake.

Scot has some great info by the way.













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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ZQ8 bumpstops are notorious for coming apart after a while. Polyurethane or PolyGraphite bumpstops will last longer and come in different stiffness options.
Yes, the ZQ8 bump stops do come apart. No matter how much you trim them. 1st line, 2nd line, they still fail. It was the big thing on this forum 15 years ago, but they suck....
 

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My daughter still has a 1994 SVI Impala SS that had installed ZQ-8's along with much stiffer revalved Bilstein shocks in 1994. It's got 67K now and the ProCharger Supercharger only made for a heavier car along with the boxed and seam welded frame, various braces and one of those notoriously heavy 6 CD changer/Dynamat combo's. (just kidding) The 6-speed is lighter than the OEM auto though by a very few pounds. Those ZQ-8's look good as new. Why? Relatively stiff springs and excellent compression/rebound revalves on first rate shocks (the 1 1/2" solid F+R sway bars too) and so nothing crashes into the ZQ-8's like....virtually never. Lisbeth has driven the car at Virginia International Raceway's road course too many times to count and those 67K miles in Zurich (smooth roads) and elsewhere with not so smooth roads. What kills ZQ-8's is getting weaker to junk springs and junkier shocks, otherwise, not so much.
 

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That was hilarious! What a great way to make fun of people who think after market springs don't get weak or turn into junk!
And that "off the shelf Bilstein shocks....that are also aging..." ? Brilliant put down of Bilstein! Oh wait...you were also agreeing with my post? Doing two things with one post? I am in awe!
 

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ZQ-8's do not come apart, they are beaten to death. In only a relatively few miles, regardless of which springs are being used, if the shocks are junk. This can include brand new shocks that sell for such a low price that no intelligent person would expect them to be other than junk. Obviously I have seen ZQ-8's last more than 60,000 miles and look and function like new when they are paired with shocks that have both compression and rebound very controlled by high quality components and appropriate engineering.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I know 17s ride way better but I love How 22s look. I’m willing to sacrifice some performance for that just tryna figure out the smoothest way to ride on big wheels. Doing suspension first then breaks and gears later. This is not my daily driver or race car just my cruising car. Lots of folks ride these cars on 4’s and 6’s all day I think the 22s shouldn’t give me to much problems. I guess we’ll see 😅
 

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Apologies for sticking my nose in, as this is just a quick little thread jack, but since when does Dick Miller not sell suspension parts? I couldn't really find much of anything on the website after seeing the comments above. Also, anyone know if that three pedals website is reputable/reliable? I think the triangulation braces were the only Dick Miller parts on my suspension list, but I'll have to check that when I get home.
 
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