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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

Just got my new system in, Two Infinity 12" 1230w subs in a sealed enclosure. My pheonix gold ZX500 amp pushing [email protected] RMS. 4Ga wiring, 8GA ground (should I use 4ga?)

When I come to a stand still while in drive I have to turn down the system because the lights and everything electrical dims. I can watch my Volt Guage going back and forth.

Would this be a weak battery? I have WAY to small a battery right now. It is the DT3 from walmart, lowest rated battery for our cars. They wont let me return it and upgrade without it being dead...how do I kill a battery?

Lol if it is my battery that is


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Discussion Starter #2
Wait wait wait wait wait..... you're running that kind of system power without even a cap, and you're wondering why your lights dim at LOW RPM (when the alternator is at the lowest rotational speed)? The battery is a big factor, too. You may want to think about getting a gel-cell battery or even a 200 amp alternator.
 
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you definitely need to put your ground wire to 4 gauge, i would suggest a 1 farad cap and a battery upgrade - if it persists your alternator is probably giving up the ghost - just my opinion I run a rockford six channel 360.6 (birthsheet 702 watts) two image dynamics 12 id 12's, image dynamics chameleon components(6 1/2") as well as stock rear fill speakers - no dimming ever, been in place since 1999 - no problems
 
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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by Joe Malczewski:
Hi,

Just got my new system in, Two Infinity 12" 1230w subs in a sealed enclosure. My pheonix gold ZX500 amp pushing [email protected] RMS. 4Ga wiring, 8GA ground (should I use 4ga?)

When I come to a stand still while in drive I have to turn down the system because the lights and everything electrical dims. I can watch my Volt Guage going back and forth.

Would this be a weak battery? I have WAY to small a battery right now. It is the DT3 from walmart, lowest rated battery for our cars. They wont let me return it and upgrade without it being dead...how do I kill a battery?

Lol if it is my battery that is


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4Ga. power is a little small for the amount of juice that amp can pull
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Not a big fan of caps, thicker wire is a better fix, and upgrade the alt wire also.

Peter
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Ok


I know I don't need a cap.

However I will upgrade the ground.


How do I kill a battery? Then I can get the 1000watt CCA battery.

What wire from te alternator do I need to upgrade? Any other post that has the procedure?

Thanks guys
Joe
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Originally posted by Joe Malczewski:
Ok


I know I don't need a cap.

However I will upgrade the ground.


How do I kill a battery? Then I can get the 1000watt CCA battery.

What wire from te alternator do I need to upgrade? Any other post that has the procedure?

Thanks guys
Joe
there should only be on wire running from the alternator aside from the actual plug. upgrade that to about 4gauge. it should look like 10-8gauge stock. also get an optima yellow top battery. put one in and have had zero problems and what little my stereo did dim my lights, with 3 amps and prior to the optima, was gone afterwards. try the battery since its cheaper than the alternator and if that doesnt work then id try upgrading all the wires running back. probably to 2-0 gauge. can never be too big.
and if your still having problems then get a larger alternator. all in all, with all this done youll have a bullet proof power system for your stereo.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I shy away from gas-matt batteries. Like ni-cads, they have a significantly lower esr (resistance) that is great when you are draining it for your stereo. Not so great if you have to "fill it up" again via your alternator. It puts a hell of a load on the alternator by maxing it out until it is "full". Just get the biggest damn conventional battery that you can fit, get the biggest wire you can afford/ fit, and you should be grinning. :D

Peter
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Well I dont think its to much power lol, I had not to long ago 2400rms to my 15 adn soon to be 2400rms again o my single DD 9515E again. I have a stock alt on my 91 caprie with stock battery up from and a 4 gauge monster cable kit. that is it and I could drive day or night for as long as I want and have no probs. I dont know what your problem is man.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
A battery won't solve the dimming problem while the car is running. It will only lengthen the amount of time you can run the stereo while the engine is off. You need a higher output alternator, larger gauge wire, and perhaps a properly sized capacitor.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
As another side note, with march under/over drive pulleys, my lights would dim at idle with no accessories on. With stereo on they would dim with bass hits.
After putting in a better headlight harness with relays pulling power directly from the accessory post, dimming at idle went away. Faint dim with stereo hits, though. After adding a Jacobs Accuvolt no more dimming, but still going to add a cap down the road.

Anotherwords, stock headlight harness should be upgraded as well to help eliminate the dimming lights. Same theory with wiring applies to the lights too.

-PJ
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I think you should add a cap first. if you add a cap the amp will pull from the cap when the bass hits, not the alternator or the battery. you can upgrade the other two when it's time for them to be replaced.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah, but what happens if it is a long bass note? I'll be generous and say the cap can supply the needed current for 1/2 to 1 second. Then, after that, it is basically shot. (it is actually less time than that) Now, your already limited cable has to feed your amp and a depleted cap.
Having the right size wire wire to begin with gets my vote.

Peter
 
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Discussion Starter #14
I would think a cap can hold a bass note longer than a second or two. not sure how long though, maybe someone else can chime in.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Originally posted by Joe Malczewski:
Hi,

Just got my new system in, Two Infinity 12" 1230w subs in a sealed enclosure. My pheonix gold ZX500 amp pushing [email protected] RMS. 4Ga wiring, 8GA ground (should I use 4ga?)

When I come to a stand still while in drive I have to turn down the system because the lights and everything electrical dims. I can watch my Volt Guage going back and forth.

Would this be a weak battery? I have WAY to small a battery right now. It is the DT3 from walmart, lowest rated battery for our cars. They wont let me return it and upgrade without it being dead...how do I kill a battery?

Lol if it is my battery that is


Suggestions
If your only running 300 X 2 @ 2 OHMS, 4 Ga wire should be fine (Both power and ground wires). If you feel the need to upgrade your Alternator, A 140 Amp SS/9C1 Alt (AC-Delco Part # 321-594) will provide plenty for what your running. when you do need to replace your battery, I Also agree on the largest "Conventional" type battery. The optima's are known to put a large load on your alternator when recharging as stated above. A Cap? No, Not really with that much power but you could put a 1 farad cap (Good up to 1000 Watts) if your looking for longer, Punchy bass lines. Myself, I Wouldn't bother with it!
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks guys.


Basically I will run a thicker ground and ALT>Battery line.

A cap is definetly not needed here, Im really not pushing that much.

I have the stock 9c1 Alternator!??
 
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Discussion Starter #17
I am having the same problem and I put a highoutput 200 amp alternator from powermaster and a brand new optima red top battery and my lights dim bad at idle. Do you think it has anything to do with running the amp wire to the +terminal plastic thingy under the hood and no directly to the battery also should I get a cap Im only using 1 amp its a JL audio 500/1
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Korn007 : yes, you DEFINITELY need to run this one straight to the battery! Right now you EFFECTIVELY have about a 10 gauge power wire (if even that big!) by running to the Aux Post.

Alt to batt wire is around 2-3 feet long if I remember right.
 
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Discussion Starter #20
If you have it running to the auxillary post, upgarde the wire from the battery to auxillary post to 1 or 0 gauge. The 4 gauge to the amp is more than enough; you're only pulling about 50 amps. 4 gauge is good up to over 100 amps. You really should have the same size power and ground though. Instead of a cap try upgrading some of the wiring in the car: battery to chassis, battery to alternator, and chassis to block. A cap holds charge. A 1 farad cap holds at most 15 Coulombs of charge (if your electrical system is putting out 15V); an amplifier can draw say 20 amps of current when fairly loud and playing music. (1 amp is 1 coulomb/sec). so in less than a second, the cap is discharged and you begin to recharge it. you might wanna check out your alternator if nothing else works because the 9c1 alternator should push 140amps max, and im sure at idle it should do something like at least 90 or so.
 
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