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New to N20, different Q's...(I think...)

4K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  Maseb 
#1 ·
Well when you come home to an empty apt., and the newly EX stole your bed, moved to Iowa with your neighbor who is a drunk, and leaves the ring, what else are you gonna spend money on? Too much???

After doing some preliminary research on Wet vs. Dry, I decided to go Wet, which seems like most people use that are putting down some real power.
Got a great deal on a Zex Wet Kit, I couldn't pass up.
So after the Wet vs. Dry decision, I did other research on everything N20 related. To make a Long story short, I have a head ache, and it seems I am going in circles. so thought I would post this to get a different view on this.
I have a '96, 73k, only 10k put on in the last 14 years. It will be getting(all parts are sitting waiting to get installed) Le1 heads w/ matching Cam(224), 58mm TB, Ported Intake 58mm, racetronix fuel upgrade, MSD Digital 6,BBK Shorties /w 2200deg. ceramic coating, 1.6rr, roller lifters. Blah blah blah.
Here's a couple of questions:

1. Plate or Fogger injection? Fogger is cheaper, as the cheapest plate I found was $250.
I read that a fogger is good because you can experiment with placement either closer or further away from TB or MAF? Plate looks nicer though...

2. Is a heating blanket necessary? or is it just for guys trying to squeeze every bit outta it?

3. Purge Kit, truthfully, being my first N20 kit, I want to go with one, cause it looks cool(Sorry). Is a purge kit just an extra solenoid? or is it a special kind of solenoid?

4. Do I need some type of fuel rail adapter? Guy said I can just tap into my schrader valve? I am planning on putting on a Fuel Pressure gauge on there as well.

5. Heard that I need to run some type of Timing window accessory? Can I use my MSD Digital 6 somehow?

6. Is a low fuel pressure cut-off a MUST HAVE?

7. Sorry if this is a dumb question. I know its imperative to mount the bottle securely, but is there a way to do it without drilling into the truck floorboard?

Thanks Guys.
 
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#2 ·
1. Fogger. IMO, it is just as good as a TB plate for distribution.

2. Yes, a heater is necessary. Without keeping the bottle at a consistent temperature, you'll be running too rich at times and too lean at others. Tune it at 1000 psi (about 90-95 deg bottle temp) and keep it there.

3. Purge not necessary, BUT will make your launches more consistent (and harder!).

4. You can use the shraeder valve IF you do not let unsupported line/mass hang off it that can vibrate and crack the braze joints next to the valve. I wouldn't put a fuel pressure gage there; a gauge is useful only if it's in a position where you can monitor it under load.

5. Yes, you should run a window switch for safety. I think a Digital 6 has that, but not sure as I've never used that one. Set the bottom of the range to prevent the hit from coming in too soon and sending cylinder pressure too high at low revs; set the top of the range to cut the N2O just before the shift points (not necessary if you have a well built tranny).

6. FPSS - I'd say it's a must unless you have a gauge placed where you can monitor under load.

7. Not only through the trunk floor, but I'd make sure a couple of them go through the frame rail as well.

Hopefully, from your research, you already know your fuel supply is critical to successfully running nitrous without engine damage. A GENUINE Walbro 255 lph pump and something like a Racetronix harness or your own hotwire/relay arrangement to make sure you get full voltage to the pump. You should be making quite a bit of power with the LE setup + nitrous, so I'd run NGKBR7 (non extended tip) plugs if you're using pump gas. I dont think a TR6 is adequate in this case.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I was looking for this and found that Tad had linked it in another thread:
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=261100&highlight=nitrous+newbies

I did my initial "nitrous education" almost entirely from the famous George "SSMOKEM" Debski, and have nothing but success with it. One qualifier for his #6 though: If your engine is tuned optimally for NA operation, it WILL make more power (AND less risk of engine damage) by retarding the timing whether you use pump or race gas - usually 4 degrees per 100 shot.
One thing I didn't see in George's list that he recommended is a remote bottle opener. If you get a nitrous solenoid failure and it sticks open, the remote opener/closer might just let you shut it off in time to prevent some serious damage.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Here is a pic of my fogger drilled and tapped into the back side of the MAF. Just remember you must run colder plugs and I recommend higher octane fuel. It burns slower helping to keep the cylinders cooler with less detonation. I run NGK B9EFS non projected tip plugs on a 200 shot. On a 150 I would recommend NGK 7 series non projected. The LT1 intake is terrible for distribution and you have to watch your back cylinders for going lean on fuel. Fuel is heavier than nitrous and is at a much lower pressure so the back cylinders get less fuel. Also I am pulling 3 degrees per 50 shot on my AI setup. Actually am pulling 13 degrees on a 200 shot. Start at 3 degrees per 50 and watch your timing marks on your plugs. They should be somewhere close over the electrode. If back around the curve of the plug its too rich if its way out toward the tip its getting too lean. Nitrous is fun but you have to keep a close eye on it all the time. And use the digital 6 as a timing retard. You can pull up to 10 degrees out through the MSD. And if you use a fogger try to get it as close to the throttle body as possible. That is why I drilled the MAF. I am less than 3" from the throttle body.
 

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#5 ·
And I forgot get a pilled window switch. The MDS digital does not work. Been there. Buy a set of 3000-3800 pills and 6000-6800 pills. That way you can bring it in when you want and shut it off when you want. Is the Zex kit computer controlled? If so good luck getting it to work. If you have any more questions just P.M. me.
 

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