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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all new to the 90s impala scene. I have loved these cars since they came out. I now (as of today) own a black 95 SS. I am truly torn. I have a well built LS sitting in my garage but I am also strongly being pulled toward the more stock route. I don’t think I would ever “race” it but I do LOVE power. For now I am focusing on the body work (needs a bit) and interior while driving it. It has 185k on it but I THINK the tranny has been gone through. Any advice on where to pick up patch quarters? That is the worst spot
 

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Good read thank you. I am leaning towards a small super charger (as I love the sound) but where as I am not looking to put down a ton of power from the car I will most likely stay LT but do heads cam intake and exhaust and the supporting mods for a little fun but I will be focusing on looks and ride and reliability. I want this to be a car I can drive anywhere in comfort and style
 

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I am leaning towards a small super charger (as I love the sound) but as I am not looking to put down a ton of power from the car I will most likely stay LT but do heads cam intake and exhaust and the supporting mods for a little fun but I will be focusing on looks and ride and reliability. I want this to be a car I can drive anywhere in comfort and style.
The proven formula:

  • 3.42 or 3.73 & a limited slip diff (the 3.73 vs 3.42 questionnaire will help you decide, based on your driving goals and environment)
    doing this 1st gives awesome bang for the buck right away, improves the 4L60E's longevity, and makes every future mod much more effective
  • reprogram the pcm
    GM hobbled not only the LT1's performance, but also the 4L60E's reliability and durability, both in the name of a few theoretical MpG
  • rebuild the 4L60E for heavy duty performance
    it's not a performance mod, it's a maintenance upgrade … except when it NEEDS rebuilding, then it becomes the ULTIMATE performance mod
  • coated mid-length or long-tube headers (shorties are pointless) and a truly mandrel curved 2.25" or 2.50"catback exhaust (a badly crimped 2.50" is worse than a smoothly bent 2.25")
  • 1.6 roller rockers & good valvesprings (Iron LT1 valvesprings sucked 24 years ago when they were new)
  • a decent cold air intake [a functionally equivalent SSRI3 or RAISS can be made out of coroplast for about $100 with or without a forked inlet tube]
  • a 160°F thermostat if your winters never go under 41°F
Gotta do all the above anyway if you're serious about getting the most out of the roughly $3500 you'll spend on properly installing a ported heads and cam package from either Lloyd Elliott or Advanced Induction - no point in supercharging OEM heads and cam …
 

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Search car-part.com. Looks like there is one about 200 miles from you. Site has pix. HTH

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