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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know an elderly woman who has a lt1 powered Roadmaster.
Last winter the heat went luke warm, and so far my shop has not been able to find the problem. She wants it fixed before the cold months come. I have searched for the basic no heat problem, but no links come up that work. There used to be a complete writeup about the cause and fix regarding dexcool, a filter, clogged heater core, and so on. I myself have found in the past that the system needs to be purged better, and even well trained techs do not know how to do this. I did purge it today, but found no air.

Does anybody have the writup?
 

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I went through the EXACT same symptoms with my RMW. Turned out to be a thermostat that did not close all the way. You should be able confirm (or rule this out) by using the HVAC display and looking at the engine temp once it warms up while driving. On mine (with the good thermostat), you can watch the temp increase, then the thermostat will open, and the temp will come down. The thermostat will close, and the cycle repeats. This was in the winter on the highway, of course, so I don't know if it will close with the weather these days.

Bottom line? Change the thermostat.

Good luck!
Jason.
 

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It seems like every 2 years this problem occurs with my car. I flush and back flush my heater core and bleed the system and my heat is smoldering even with the 160 t stat in IL winters. hth
 

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I may have flushed a heater core or two in my time. ;)

I use the hose repair kits from home depot, disconnect the heater hoses at the flow restrictor and the tee, and run hoses to the top one, then flush, then the bottom one, then flush. Repeat a few times. You'd be surprised at what comes out of there! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies guys. But I need one of the writeups. I need to give it to the tech at my work, as I myself will not be working on the car, and do not have the time to stand by to lend a hand.
The car got a new w/p and thermostat last fall. Both ACDelco.

The snag in this, is the tech thinks it is a isolated issue with just her car. I explained that it is a very common problem with these cars in general. And the car is still using Dex cool and I explained it can over time choke off the system. But without a writeup to back me up, the tech thinks that I am just talking out of my ass.
I just do not want to see this woman have to keep throwing money at the problem, only to not solve it.
 

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Find a better tech...

Wait, you're in New Hampshire? Aren't there a few hard-core Impala guys right nearby?
I'm sure someone could use a few bucks to fix this thing.
I wish you were nearby, I could flush that puppy out right on the curb in front of the hydrant.
 

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Bet him a case of beer that you can fix it! Unless it has the Crovo Curse a good flush should work. :)

I put a bleeder valve on my first LT1 car. I only used it one time. After that I just run the car a bit just til the thermostat opens, top it off, repeat and then check the level agian in day or two. I haven't had a problem with this method. IMO the bleeder valves aren't necessary, they just speed up the process.

Mr Google (my favorite tech) has lots of stuff on how the tablets are bad. Would some of these articles help. Here's one that quotes a TSB:
http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f31/dexcool-2659/

Can she cook? Invite her to our next mod day.

If all else fails sell the car. Let me know how much. :)
 

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What happened to the good ol' days when people did WTF they were told? LOL! If the tech won't do what he's instructed to do, you need to find someone that's able to follow instructions.

I was having heat issues also and a flush of the heater core made an IMMENSE difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The problem here is I am not a tech. I should be when it comes to working on cars. But I was not hired for that. I know I can fix it. Hell I know what is wrong, But not being a tech, and trying to give well known advice pertaining our cars is what is not going over so well.
I just want to help the lady, no matter what kind of car she is driving. I will not take on the job on the side, as it is a conflict of intrest, and the lady is a friend of the owner. So basicly I need to prove I know what I am talking about by backing it up with writen proof. I have looked everwhere I could think of, but have yet to find the info I need.
Seems like I remember Larry Cigar had a link to it, but no one has a link to Larry Cigar.cwm3
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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I know an elderly woman who has a lt1 powered Roadmaster.
Last winter the heat went luke warm, and so far my shop has not been able to find the problem. She wants it fixed before the cold months come. I have searched for the basic no heat problem, but no links come up that work. There used to be a complete writeup about the cause and fix regarding dexcool, a filter, clogged heater core, and so on. I myself have found in the past that the system needs to be purged better, and even well trained techs do not know how to do this. I did purge it today, but found no air.

Does anybody have the writup?
I went through tis with the SSuperwagon to get decent Heat in Cold Winter. Sometimes it is as easy as a flush.

I replaced the Heater Core, all the hoses and still could not get decent heat. Though each time it improved. I added my stock 195 Tstat and finally got some good heat.

This year Iam planning to dig into the vents and see if I am getting blower leaks around the Heater core or the flaps are not shutting properly.

Dan
 

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If this guy is a tech and he has to be told by someone who is not a tech how to do something so basically simple, then he should find another line of work. Any tech I know would be offended to be told how to do this. That doesn't solve your problem. This will: Disconnect the heater hoses at the water pump. Stick a garden hose nozzle in one heater hose and turn it on; and then compressed air. Repeat this several times. He will see the blockage of old Dexcool pellets come out the other hose. I assume he knows how to do a pressure check and thermo test?
 
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