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As mentioned by grandpas -



Get.
That.
Original.
Back.


Drive or Uber over before they open Monday, and don't leave without that oem opti. It can be rebuilt, and for multiple reasons even as old as it is, it will turn out more reliable and better performing than the majority of aftermarket are brand new.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yes, I will get original opti back.
Can an opti be rebuilt at home?
Are the bearings/bushings replaceable?
Other than erosion/corrosion of cap & rotor, what is it in the opti that actually fails?
The optical sensor? I wouldn't be surprised if mine has oil on it. Can it be cleaned or does something inside it fail?

I'd much rather rebuild it myself than take car to a stealership or glorified tire & lube, even if I have to wait for parts.

Luckily spring is around the corner and I can ride my motorcycle while parts ship.

I never was the type of person to take a car to a repair garage other than for tire mounting/balancing.
Big thanks to everyone on here for their knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Can an opti be rebuilt at home?
Are the bearings/bushings replaceable?
Other than erosion/corrosion of cap & rotor, what is it in the opti that actually fails?
The optical sensor? I wouldn't be surprised if mine has oil on it. Can it be cleaned or does something inside it fail?
Anyone? Bueller?
 

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Numerous threads on rebuilding, and yes easily handled at home. Hunt down the several male and female tiny Torx drivers. Here's a couple of more recent ones:
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/34-engine-problems-maintenance/1303385-cheap-opti-thread.html
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/34-engine-problems-maintenance/1304073-rebuild-opti-new-parts-old-distributor.html


Be careful with those tiny screws - I snapped 2 of three and had to set up my drill press to drill out and chase the threads. Replacing the bearing is the only head-scratcher as an 'exact' duplicate has not been found. But at least one guy found one similar to use with a thin spacer-washer. And separating the bearing from the shaft introduces potential mis-clocking the optical wheel on reassembly. which itself has been reported as an issue on some new aftermarket names. You'll want quality tune-up parts - cap, rotor.... And get a tube of blue Locktite and di-electric grease. Remember no grease on viton WP seal. Only one way to get the balancer back on correctly, and 2 other wrong ways. It's all in the threads. Be sure to reuse the more reliable heat resistant oem Mitsubishi sensor v. the one out of any aftermarket. And service the vent harness. Also best time in the world to replace plugs/wires while it's all opened up in front.


Quote:
I never was the type of person to take a car to a repair garage other than for tire mounting/balancing.


Haha Me neither. Last time for anything mechanical (not counting A/C work and wh. alignments) was '98 but I don't count that since I was out of the country and my wife had to run the Impala SS to a GM dealer for a mouse nest in the fan. $350 TYVM GDMF. See, now that it's been 20 years I'm not bitter - much. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
UPDATE - I called that garage on the morning of 18th. They said they found a new replacement opti locally & that it was on the way & car would be ready before noon & would cost $326, all in. Since I was planning on going out of town the next day, I said great, call me when it's done. They told me where they sourced the part when I asked, too.
After that, I called the part supplier & asked for part number & price. They told me it is an Autoline D2123N & after a LONG hold that it's "for you, it's about $325"...... Greasy:rolleyes:
The garage called me a couple hours later & said the car is ready. They billed me for 1 hour of labor & $197 CAD for the part. (not too bad considering rockauto lists this part for $193 CAD + $15 CAD shipping)
For the past week, the engine has ran fine but I didn't have any heat coming in through the vents & only the vents in the dash would blow air. I found that the vacuum line for the hvac was broken where it comes out of the wiring loom above the engine. I suspect the garage broke it when they were checking fuel pressure.
I've started dissecting my original opti, there is noticeable play in the shaft. How do I remove the plastic piece that's behind the rotor?
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
Bump / Update
I've got the failed opti disassembled (except for bearing). It's a Delco-Remy unit.
There's no sign that any water had gotten inside it, however there was some oil (too clean to be motor oil) inside it. there's also a streak of that oil on the reluctor wheel.
I found this photo of a rebuilt opti on LS1tech.com for how to maintain correct reluctor hub clocking position relative to coupler. Is there a better way to do this?


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #27
As mentioned by grandpas -



Get.
That.
Original.
Back.


Drive or Uber over before they open Monday, and don't leave without that oem opti. It can be rebuilt, and for multiple reasons even as old as it is, it will turn out more reliable and better performing than the majority of aftermarket are brand new.

Other than the Mitsubishi optical sensor (which might be failed), is there any special value in the Delco-Remy opti?


Thanks
 

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Good Pictures and bearing source from babywag:


https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/34-engine-problems-maintenance/1313788-ac-delco-reman-optispark-dissection.html


Other than the Mitsubishi optical sensor (which might be failed), is there any special value in the Delco-Remy opti?
The parts should be made better and are clocked correctly. The rub is as you say does the optical sensor work. It can be tested out of the car but you need to know what you are doing.


If you are willing to clear codes after the test you might plug it back into the car. Pull the injector fuses then spin and watch for spark at the plugs.


If you are importing bearings PM me I should get a bearing as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The saga continues...


Car died on me a few times a couple miles away from home today, CEL came on. Was able to get started back up each time & drove the car home.
I checked the codes through the climate control module. Indicated 48 (misfire) & 90 (TCC error).
A couple of days ago I put some spacers between the IC/ICM & cylinder head in effort to keep ICM cool. Bad idea?

I've only burned 1 tank of fuel since opti was replaced, garage told me there's a 1 year warranty on the part. Are the aftermarket units really that bad?
 

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a simple "misfire" combined with a TC clutch code do not immediately appear directly connected to the opti. I opennet searched TCClutch fail just to see total list of symptoms and most likely causes might be outside of a bad solenoid - this link came up first but certain you've dug deeper on your own:
https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0740/
A 'always locked' TC can stall the motor at stops if that's anything close to what is happening to you. Biggest thing on there that jumped off the screen is the ECT sensor. Many aftermarket optis have a 'lifetime' warranty and guys just swap them out annually as they croak. Can you get the shop to tell you what brand you have now? What I've heard of that shop makes me wonder if it's not below them to "limit" the warranty on their own to reduce their exposure for a call-back/replacement. But whadddoI know.


An airgap on the IC/ICM is reported on the forum to be a baddddd idea. The head "never" gets over 200* and thought it acts as heatsink compared to air temp. What's more confirmed is a normal installation using legitimate thermal paste.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
a simple "misfire" combined with a TC clutch code do not immediately appear directly connected to the opti. I opennet searched TCClutch fail just to see total list of symptoms and most likely causes might be outside of a bad solenoid - this link came up first but certain you've dug deeper on your own:
https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0740/
A 'always locked' TC can stall the motor at stops if that's anything close to what is happening to you. Biggest thing on there that jumped off the screen is the ECT sensor. Many aftermarket optis have a 'lifetime' warranty and guys just swap them out annually as they croak. Can you get the shop to tell you what brand you have now? What I've heard of that shop makes me wonder if it's not below them to "limit" the warranty on their own to reduce their exposure for a call-back/replacement. But whadddoI know.


An airgap on the IC/ICM is reported on the forum to be a baddddd idea. The head "never" gets over 200* and thought it acts as heatsink compared to air temp. What's more confirmed is a normal installation using legitimate thermal paste.

Engine died while coasting or very gently accelerating at ~5mph, stayed running when stopped.
With car in (P), engine intermittently feels rough as if missing when giving it gas. Also (intermittently) ran rough when under load, up hill.

Opti in the car now is Autoline brand.
I will check resistance thru TCC solenoid.
 

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It may further confuse issues - but. My wife's Tribute has a bad habit of doing very similar 'sputter or die at low revs for no reason' on the road if I fail to pour in some Techron injector cleaner every 6 months.



Well,

AutoLine DistributorWarranty Policy
1. Autoline distributors have a 1 year warranty from the date of purchase on Domestic
applications. Commercial applications are 90 day from the date of installation.
2. The distributor must not be modified in anyway



Appears to be a poor pick by the mech. if other brands in fact offer lifetime eh. And 2. cracks me up. As if they are aware of history of that occurring. As you say, the saga continues.
 

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UPDATE car started up this morning, I let it warm up, turned it off & started it back up 3 times in a row no problem. I let the car cool for an hour, came back and started it up no problem, let it warm up.
At this point I figured the starter is fine and maybe the car wasn't starting because something was wet. (I had a half inch of water on my garage floor)
I took it for a drive & the engine died at the end of my street. Still, no codes. I did notice that on the optispark end of the coil wire was a small red sleeve around the wire that is cracked. Does my optispark need to be replaced?
Read up this diagnostics link. Here is a part you might pay attention:

"Something that I have run into that causes a no start is a bad coil wire. Sometimes the opti end of the wire will crack and distort causing a lot of internal arcing and bad contact. If you look into the opti end there should be a plastic insert that keeps the wire centered and making good contact. if it’s cracked or broken replace it."
 

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Discussion Starter #35
a simple "misfire" combined with a TC clutch code do not immediately appear directly connected to the opti. I opennet searched TCClutch fail just to see total list of symptoms and most likely causes might be outside of a bad solenoid - this link came up first but certain you've dug deeper on your own:
https://autoservicecosts.com/obd2-codes/p0740/
A 'always locked' TC can stall the motor at stops if that's anything close to what is happening to you. Biggest thing on there that jumped off the screen is the ECT sensor. Many aftermarket optis have a 'lifetime' warranty and guys just swap them out annually as they croak. Can you get the shop to tell you what brand you have now? What I've heard of that shop makes me wonder if it's not below them to "limit" the warranty on their own to reduce their exposure for a call-back/replacement. But whadddoI know.


An airgap on the IC/ICM is reported on the forum to be a baddddd idea. The head "never" gets over 200* and thought it acts as heatsink compared to air temp. What's more confirmed is a normal installation using legitimate thermal paste.

Checked codes thru climate control readout again. This morning, only PCM code 48 (misfire) was present.



Resistance thru TCC solenoid (measured between load side of EMI fuse & terminal 6 of blue PCM connector) is about 10 ohms.
Engine coolant temperature (at pump) indicated thru climate control readout was 43 degrees F (seemed accurate).


I should probably mention when I connected an old Actron scanner to the car's ALDL (key on, engine off), the scanner would take a long time to connect (?) with the PCM, during which time the fuel pump would run. After about 20 seconds, fuel pump would shut off & scanner would indicate connection error. The scanner worked fine last time I connected it to this car.


Is it possible I've got a bad PCM? Bad ignition switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
UPDATE car started up this morning, I let it warm up, turned it off & started it back up 3 times in a row no problem. I let the car cool for an hour, came back and started it up no problem, let it warm up.
At this point I figured the starter is fine and maybe the car wasn't starting because something was wet. (I had a half inch of water on my garage floor)
I took it for a drive & the engine died at the end of my street. Still, no codes. I did notice that on the optispark end of the coil wire was a small red sleeve around the wire that is cracked. Does my optispark need to be replaced?
Read up this diagnostics link. Here is a part you might pay attention:

"Something that I have run into that causes a no start is a bad coil wire. Sometimes the opti end of the wire will crack and distort causing a lot of internal arcing and bad contact. If you look into the opti end there should be a plastic insert that keeps the wire centered and making good contact. if it’️s cracked or broken replace it."
I checked my coil wire, the" plastic insert" was cracked. Just to see what would happen, I pulled out all the remnants of the insert, plugged coil wire back into opti, car started up fine, let it idle up to operating temperature & drove it back & forth on my driveway. Engine kept running the whole time & didn't throw any codes.
Replacing a coil wire requires replacing all the plug wires ($130 in my neck of the woods). Do you know if /where I can buy just the plastic insert?
Thanks
 

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I checked my coil wire, the" plastic insert" was cracked. Just to see what would happen, I pulled out all the remnants of the insert, plugged coil wire back into opti, car started up fine, let it idle up to operating temperature & drove it back & forth on my driveway. Engine kept running the whole time & didn't throw any codes.
Replacing a coil wire requires replacing all the plug wires ($130 in my neck of the woods). Do you know if /where I can buy just the plastic insert?
Thanks
I am glad that playing with the coil wire did make a difference. But you still need more driving to check things out.
Cannot say anything about the plastic insert - do not remember any when I replaced all wired many years ago.
You have two choices for the coil wire. First, buying a cheap wire set (rockauto.com has it as low as $20), or buying just the coil wire. For example, check this one out. Not sure it fits your vehicle, though.
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-355D-Original-Equipment-Ignition/dp/B0013FU0HO/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_6?keywords=355d+coil+wire&qid=1555208989&s=gateway&sr=8-6-fkmrnull

Park the car with open hood somewhere where it can dry out. Wet ignition system can cause a lot of trouble, especially if the components are old.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
CORRECTION - OBD1 PCM code 48 for these cars is MAF circuit problem (NOT misfire).
Anyway, I was able to source a coil wire with an intact insulating sleeve at the distributor end. I plugged it in, test drove car. No stalling or dying, but runs like crap at low RPM. Jabbing the accelerator in N or P, engine stumbles causing car to shake. This happens with cold or warm engine.
The code 48 & 90 are gone but now I've got a code 15 (Coolant temperature sensor signal voltage low or short circuit).
What triggers going from open to closed loop?
Thanks
 

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The coolant temp sensor is the 2nd most important sensor on the car other than the Mass air.
Replace it or the wiring that plugs into it or both.

Nab
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I unplugged the F/P fuse to clear all codes. Took the car for a few short drives & monitored coolant temp. on climate control display. It appeared to increase normally, even when the car stumbled/hesitated. No codes generated, either. I suspect that whatever sensor is bad (MAF or ECT), there's not enough "resolution" to see the bad data coming back from the sensor.
At what temperature does LT1 normally switch from open loop to closed loop?
 
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