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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 91 Olds CC with a L03. I am at a loss to figure out my start problem. The car chugged to a stop, and the starter would only turn the engine slowly. I pushed it to a parking lot, and the starter solenoid will not engage. On a couple of prior occasions it started and immediately shut off, restarted and it was OK.

I had the battery checked...good battery.

Tried to start in both park and neutral...no starter.

Replaced the ignition switch...no change.

Checked for voltage at the red wires to ignition switch...Voltage correct.

Loosened and retightened engine ground, and battery terminals.

Pulled the starter and had checked...good starter.

Reinstalled the starter but have not tested it yet.

Any ideas?

I am also concerned about the stumble to idle, but this may be an issue to deal with after I get it started again.

Another discovery...fuse 7 is melted on the bottom side. Anything?
 

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The car chugged to a stop, and the starter would only turn the engine slowly. I pushed it to a parking lot, and the starter solenoid will not engage.

Tried to start in both park and neutral...no starter.

Replaced the ignition switch...no change.

Pulled the starter and had checked...good starter.

Reinstalled the starter but have not tested it yet.

Any ideas?
Fred, how did you determine that the starter solenoid would not engage? Did you have someone turn the key "In the Start Position" while you were under the car and looking for any starter movement or solenoid clicking? You need to recheck the starter while someone turns the key and see if it is engaging (And humming), but just not turning the engine over? Remove the trans inspection cover (4 Bolts) if nessasary, and it will allow you to see the starter pinion gear/solenoid in action. If it's completly dead (Pinion gear does not pop out when the key is turned in the start position).....Time to run the tests in the pics below to retrace the solenoid wiring back from the starter solenoid to the ignition switch, or check for a bad battery cable.

91-93 B-Body Starting System Wiring - Part A



91-93 B-Body Starting System Wiring - Part B



Starting System preliminary checks



Starting System diagnostics - Does NOT Crank or No sound from solenoid



Starting System diagnostics -Slow Cranking / Solenoid clicks

 

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Another discovery...fuse 7 is melted on the bottom side. Anything?
According to the FSM I have that the above info came from (93 Roadmaster manual)......Fuse #7 is the "Electronic A/C Power Module" (C68 Electronic climate control)......Do you have the electronic / automatic climate control in your car? If so, with the key in the "On" Position, turn ON the Electronic climate control.......Does it come on and work?
 

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Hi Fred - you said the starter tested good. By who? Some of those AZ type starter tests are of questionable quality by questionable personel. I would try another known good starter - it is a lot easier than some of those other gyrations like a new switch.
 

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Uh Fred, this is normally the part where you post back that:

A. You figured out the problem and post back the solution, in order to help others that also might post a similar problem in the future.
OR​

B. You still require some form of help after going thru all the solutions presented to you?​
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The forum has been down on and off, and I have not received any of the posts from this thread...I just happened to see it was at the top of the list today.

I have not had the time to further troubleshoot the problem since Friday. The starter was checked by Autozone...They connected leads to the solenoid, and the armature posts...the soleniod must engage for the motor to run...ran fine. In the car, there is no click for the soleniod engagement. I loosened and retightened the battery cables at the battery, and the ground cable on the block. I did not clean them. There is voltage at the ignition switch hot leads. I replaced the starter, and have not had time to do anything else. The headlights come on bright, and work fine.

I have the FSM, and it leads me to the starter or a wire. I have not had a chance to put a VOM on the posts of the starter. That is my next step. I have college finals this week so it will be about a week before I get to mess with it again. The fact that the starter worked once between the failures could mean an intermittant soleniod problem. I will post when I find the problem. Thanks for the inputs.

I have to dig for a 30A fuse for the #7 slot.
 

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...I loosened and retightened the battery cables at the battery, and the ground cable on the block. I did not clean them. There is voltage at the ignition switch hot leads. I replaced the starter, and have not had time to do anything else. The headlights come on bright, and work fine.
Headlights and most other electrical systems run fine on the low amps that can be provided with corroded battery terminals. But, the starter requires 100's of amps to operate, so it's most sensitive to poor conductivity. Thouroughly clean your battery terminals first. Its a 5 minute job, and you're not out anything if it isn't the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I finally got to check the car out today. After cleaning the terminals, the car started normally. It seems to crank a little longer than I like, but It may still be normal. The only conlusion I can come to is that the battery connectors were corroded. Everything else acts normal.
Thanks for the advice, you kept me from doing a lot of unnecessary work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It died on me again today. Solenoid clicks, so the starter is shot. I may have another problem as well, because it died when I came to a stop. I am going to tackle the starter tonight, and I am going to try another ignition module in the morning if it stalls again.The stalling is global, so it can only be a few things...coil, ignition module, coil wire, and a couple of others. I do not think it is fuel related. Here I go, replacing the starter...I hate to do things twice...I just had the starter out and AZ checked it good, so I put it back in. The frame brace is a pain in the butt. I wonder which engineer decided to put it there...he should be soundly beaten with it.
 

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Check the POSitive auxiliary battery post at the engine compartment fuse block. It will be under a plastic cover, if it hasn't been molested by Bubba already. This connection likes to melt on civilian B-bodies. If the post is silver covered it is at risk. The 9C1s got a gold (brass colored) post that will conduct more current.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is 91 and does not have the same terminal as the later models. I think the starter fixed the problem. I am going to test drive it for a while to assess the other symptoms.
 
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