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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My daily beater (96 Accord) needs new cv joints. No clicking yet but boots are cracked and it is loosing grease. CV Joints a do it yourselfer or a leave it to the professional type of job?

Im not an expert mechanic by no means but im not afraid to break out the tools on a car either.
 

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its been awhile but you used to be able to get reman cv shafts assemblies pretty good price from auto places.
got be able to lift front of car, unbolt suspension parts, maybe a lower balljoint so spindle can swing out to swap the cv shaft.
 

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about an hour each side it calls for, on a lift with airtools i can get them done in about 20min each.

as long as you have the tools its not bad, assortment of metric sockets and probably a 36mm axle nut socket.

with the wheel on and the car on the ground brake the axle nut loose- theyre usually between 150-200ft-lbs so use a big bar. jack her up and do one side at a time.
-remove brake caliper and ABS sensor if equipped
-Remove lower ball join nut and knock balljoint loose from control arm
-remove tierod end nut and knock loose and remove
--- tip for doing this, you can use a big hammer and with the nut off wack the side of the steering knuckle where the stud of the tie rod end pulls through. A few wacks and it usually pops loose without damage to the rod end- same can be done for the balljoin, jut dont hit the balljoin/tierods themselves or the threads
-fully remove axle nut
-lift up and out on the knuckle assemble and position off to the side while pulling axle end out of it
- take a prybar and go between the axle end and transmission and pop it out


to install reverse procedure. put some trans fluid on the new axle end to put it back in the trans a little easier it can sometimes be a pain to get the retaining clip thats on the end to compress while pushing it in

and the whole axle will fit through the horseshoe on the bottom of the strut
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
about an hour each side it calls for, on a lift with airtools i can get them done in about 20min each.

as long as you have the tools its not bad, assortment of metric sockets and probably a 36mm axle nut socket.

with the wheel on and the car on the ground brake the axle nut loose- theyre usually between 150-200ft-lbs so use a big bar. jack her up and do one side at a time.
-remove brake caliper and ABS sensor if equipped
-Remove lower ball join nut and knock balljoint loose from control arm
-remove tierod end nut and knock loose and remove
--- tip for doing this, you can use a big hammer and with the nut off wack the side of the steering knuckle where the stud of the tie rod end pulls through. A few wacks and it usually pops loose without damage to the rod end- same can be done for the balljoin, jut dont hit the balljoin/tierods themselves or the threads
-fully remove axle nut
-lift up and out on the knuckle assemble and position off to the side while pulling axle end out of it
- take a prybar and go between the axle end and transmission and pop it out


to install reverse procedure. put some trans fluid on the new axle end to put it back in the trans a little easier it can sometimes be a pain to get the retaining clip thats on the end to compress while pushing it in

and the whole axle will fit through the horseshoe on the bottom of the strut

Thanks a million....I love this forum
 
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