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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm off today to install my PPM front end kit I got for christmas. Bout time. So I'll bring my camera and take pics so we can rebuild our knowledge base that we lost from trolls and post whores. ;)

You'll also get an idea on how beefy the new PPM super front end kit is. Well I'm off, post back later tonight.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Holy crap that was alot of work today and we're still not done. Still have the sway bar and alignment to do.

So there are a few things when doing the front end on a car with 150+ miles on it. I killed both wheel speed sensors trying to get them out. Bad idea. Realized later to disconnect them from up the line and would leave them connected to the spindle. Also cut the front springs 1 coil. holy crap batman, that droped it to the bump stops. Crazy rake but I think I'll need after market springs soon.

Never did get the upper a-arms off. Too much work and it took 11 hrs for t2o guys as it was to do lower bushings, all balljoints, wheel bearings, and cut springs.

I have a bunch of pics and will post later, my back is killing me right now and I left my camera in my buddies tool box.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm going to be doing the same install once Tom's springs are in stock so I'm really interested to see how yours goes. 11 hours :eek: . I was planning on 2 days to do it, but it's basically me and a person to hand me tools (which really helps) so this makes me a little skeptical. How did you get the old bushings out? I was looking at this method.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I used a ball joint press made by snap on. It was nice having access to the garage and a mechanic. We each worked on something at different times, worked together on others. you'll need an internal spring compressor if you want to have fewer headaches.

I'll be getting my camera later today and hopefully putting up the pics.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Heres the pics for those who want to see it.


Step one, remove sway bar. I broke bolts cause my car is an old salt belter.

Get rid of those wheels. Look at the crap stock rotors, waiting on getting good stuff, but for now, red will work.

I'm a little in the pic, but i'll stay hiding. this is what stock 155K links look like with the build up of old grease and dirt. yuck.

Another look at dirtyness.


The new parts. PPM complete super duty kit with poly.


Take off those capilers, watch your brake line, hang it with wire.


Another look at clunky balljionts that are original. not good.

and another view.....
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
continued....


More grease and dirt still, where does it all come from, Oh yeah, EVERYWHERE!!!!

Pickle forks out the old tie rods.

The old linkage. Carefull if removing as unit. One of the tie rod sides swung and hit me in the head. Heavyier then it looks!

Naked, ready for parts.

Looks cleaner now, but will fill later with better parts.

Might as well repack those bearings. off with the rotors.

A freshly installed lower controll arms. lots of work getting those bushings and ball joints in. I used a snap on ball jiont tool for these.

Here's Wess my Mechanic buddy. He signed out the Military garage for the weekend so we had access to loads of tools, air, grease, etc.... Letting him grind the old upper balljiont rivits.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
again continued...


The original 9 year old ball jionts and bushings. Bushings were in suprisingly good condition but are soft rubber, no good. Firm is good right boyz!

Wess knocking out the other upper ball joint. I was working, I just need to operate the camera, yeah thats it....

New upper with the spindale reatached. Oh so you know, do not grease new ball joints until you put them in. If there is too much grease you may blow the seal when you tighten the nut.

And the finished product. Nice shiny solid steering type stuff. Also cut one full ciol out of the front. Wow is it ever low. If you do it kill just one half coil. Don't forget to seat your springs.

Well it's gonna need an alignment now. The feel before the alignment is still amaziing. The lowering with new bushings and new steering parts equals new Impala feel. Like 2004 impala feel.

Note I never did the upper bushings, too much needed to remove them and not enough time. Total time taken was approx 14 hrs over 2 days. Enjoy the pics.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Damn. Seeing those nice clean parts makes me want to redo mine again! Looks great Bill! It's gonna be a blast to drive too!
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No time to paint parts or powerder coat. It's ok tho. It will be coming apart when the new springs come in. Most likely hotchkis. Now that I know how long it takes and I have the Big econoline van for a driver in the meantime, I will do it better. Also want to save up for tubular control arms.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
congrats on the upgrade bully...something I will need to be doing later this year.

and thanks for the pics...it really allows us wussies (like me) that don't get under their car alot to put some "faces" to some front end parts.

-Tony
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No problem, I wish I could have taken more pics but I started realizing it was gonna take some time and we were hitting it pretting hard. I was starving by the end of the first day, do 11hrs and eat only one mcdics cheesburger and fry while working hard. You'll eat anything after, and thristy, let me tell you about thirsty................
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just finished(still having issues) doing this a week ago. Way more work than I thought it would be, even with new everything (except brakes). My advice= if this is your daily driver have a back up plan. I'm on week 3 of jacking with this thing and its starting to wear me out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
It took me a weekend (friday night to sunday at 6am) to do this on my car 3.5 years ago. Had a friend to help. To be fair, I did have to get a junkyard UCA and find a shop to press out and in my bushings and LBJs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I already did my bushings and balljoints awhile back but I recently took it to get an alignment doen and the people at Brake Check told me my front end link wasn't good that the bushings were in bad shape and it had alot of play. Well that's fine the car has about 160,000 miles on it and its 11yrs old so I guess a new front link is due. My question is, is the Extreme Duty front link that PPM sells worth the money, is it beefier than stock better parts or what? Oh yeah the guys at Brake Check want to replace my shocks also and wanted to do the work themselfs, no thanks, by the way how hard was removing the link system?
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just tore into my front end yesterday. I am installing the complete poly kit from Zack. Those upper control arms a serious PITA! I had everything off the car in about 3 hours but those upper arms took another hour to remove. I didn't want to remove the steering shaft, so I had to press out the upper studs. Not fun - FLP headers are in the way! The passenger side was even worse with headers and AC lines in the way. I hope I can reuse the old studs. I never really turned them with a wrench, but I did have to "work" them to get 'em to pop out.
I took the arms to NAPA to have the old balljoints and bushings replaced. They charge $15 for each bushing and balljoint - $180 for the whole deal, + tax. I just hope they dissasemble all the poly bushings for lubing before they intall everything - I asked them to do this and explained to them the importance, but it's not their car so we'll see how it works out. I wish I could just buy my own press to do this, but I have to move every couple of years (thanks, Uncle Sam!) and I don't have the weight allowance to spare.
I should have the arms back tonight. It may be all back together before I go to bed, barring any unforseen circumstances. I took some time yesterday to paint my springs, spindles, and brake calipers. I may do some more detail work on the arms before installing them. I can't wait to drive it with a fresh suspension as the car had a serious case of "the wanders" and was chewing up the inside edge of the tires quite badly before.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Originally posted by Bullyveldt:
No problem, I wish I could have taken more pics but I started realizing it was gonna take some time and we were hitting it pretting hard. I was starving by the end of the first day, do 11hrs and eat only one mcdics cheesburger and fry while working hard. You'll eat anything after, and thristy, let me tell you about thirsty................
Where was the BEER???
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just did the same job this past weekend. I and my helpers are sore.

Everything under the front was replaced including the springs and control arm bushings on upper and lower arms. Paid $150.00 for my mechanic to do this. My right front spring was missing 1/4 of a coil. I cut the Moog 5030 springs one coil before install. Front end sits just right currently. The upper contol arm bolts were removed with an impact gun (1/2"). This is not the prefered method but it simplified the job on the drivers side (didn't have to remove the steering intermidiate shaft) and on the passenger's side as the clearance is tight against the hoses and A/C lines. The new UCA bolts held fast in the end so alignment was not a problem. Unplugging the speed sensors saved time and money. An internal spring compressor was used, although handling the springs is a scarey deal no matter what. The sway bar end link bolt kit and sway bar bushing bracket bolts were purchased thru Dal - excellent parts compared to aftermarket stuff. The job took 18 hours with the help of one friend to remove the front end and one friend to install the front end.

The result are great. Can't wait to do the rear end.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
FWIW You can remove the upper passenger side A-arm without much trouble if you pop the upper ball joint loose and then have a helper hold the AC lines up out of the way. Remove the nuts on the studs and push one end towards the block at a time. Once you clear the studs you can remove through the wheel well. Note: If you have headers this may not work. My car has the stock exhaust.

On drivers side if you press out the rear stud you can twist the A-arm enough to clear the front stud without removing the steering shaft or anything else. Just get the refurbushed A-arm back on the front stud before you re-install the rear stud.
 
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