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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I get this kinda grinding noise from the RF at slow speed. It goes away after I apply the brakes a few times or turn sharply in a parking lot.

Sometimes I even hear this sound when I am off the brakes and just creeping along in traffic at say 5mph. Its a low grinding kinda noise, kinda like a tire rubbing on the sway bar.

The car also pulls to the right under braking and sometimes will want to turn to pull to the right alot when I am on the gas.

I know the rotors and pads are just about trashed because Under high speed braking The front brakes are real noisey and hum. There is now play in the front wheels so I would think the wheel bearings are allright.

Perhaps this weekend Ill check this out if its warm.

I think Ill buy 2 new GM ones if they are not really expensive.

Thanks.

Im Def. a novice at this... It would be the first time I would be replacing the calipers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
make sure you have someone handy as you'll need to bleed the brakes(all 4 corners) after replacing the calipers.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep, definitly sounds like a sticking caliper, the best way to tell is if your pads on the offending wheel are worn unevenly (i.e. on a slant, you'll know what I mean when you see it. ) Just be sure to measure your rotor and check to see if it is within spec, and get it machined if it has scoring on it. Also, be sure to replace those pads along with it, and make sure you lube the giudes and mounting surfaces. Have fun, and as said above, be sure to have someone there to help bleed the brakes for you.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Another Question, I also think the Wheel cylinders are leaking, Would the Brake shoes be trashed because brake fluid is wetting them? I replaced the Shoes, Cut the drums and added new wheel cylinders 10k ago. The wheel cylinders were just cheap.. The fluid level is dropping in the rear Resivour
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Whats a good replacement Caliper if the GM ones are alot of cash?

Im personally not too keen on those stores that offer life time replacement and there like 20ish dollers. The wheel cylinders I bought were cheap and there leaking.

Thanks again.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by GM B Body:
Another Question, I also think the Wheel cylinders are leaking, Would the Brake shoes be trashed because brake fluid is wetting them? I replaced the Shoes, Cut the drums and added new wheel cylinders 10k ago. The wheel cylinders were just cheap.. The fluid level is dropping in the rear Resivour
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Whats a good replacement Caliper if the GM ones are alot of cash?

Im personally not too keen on those stores that offer life time replacement and there like 20ish dollers. The wheel cylinders I bought were cheap and there leaking.

Thanks again.
Yes, always toss Brake Shoes if contaminated with Brake Fluid(BF).

I don't believe there's such a thing as 'cheaply made Wheel Cylinders(WC)'.
Are the WC's inexpensive for our cars? Yes, usually $19-$27each.
Brake Parts are only manufactured by a few companies, and manufacturing standards are high[talking life/death here].
First confirm[pull drums off, & inspect] that Wheel Cylinders are actually leaking, because you stated that "rear reservoir" is low.
If by that, you meant "REAR bowl in Master Cylinder(MC)" was low, this could indicate that FRONT Brake Pads(BP) are worn, since REAR bowl[bigger one] is the one that supplies BF for
:eek: >FRONT BRAKES< :eek: . Front bowl[smaller one] supplies BF to rear brakes.
As Front BP's wear, Caliper Pistons extend out, causing BF level in rear bowl of MC to drop = normal.

And don't worry about those $15-$20 Rebuilt Calipers.
All rebuilders will use quality Seals[foolish to risk liability issues].
EDIT ADD: Design and reconditioning of OEM Front Caliper is simple;
*Bleeder Screw is removed & Piston is popped out of Housing[w/compressed air].
*After a thorough cleaning, Piston & cylinder bore are inspected for pitting/galling(p/g).
*Housing should be tossed if p/g is found. Piston will be replaced if p/g.
*Lastly, Piston Seal & Dust Boot are replaced with new. Usually new Bleeder screw also.
Not a Big Deal = Low Cost.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Verify sticking Front Caliper:
* Jack each front wheel off ground,
* With an assitant sitting in car,
* Spin wheel & have assistant slowly apply brake,
* After brake petal is released, see if wheel turns fairly freely,
* If wheel is hard to turn, suspect sticking Caliper. Time to replace.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Okay dokey...

It seems to make a grinding, drag noise more when I cut the wheel to back into a parking spot or something like that.

Some days I hear this noise more..

Larry.. I heard about Autozone Calipers failing again quickly.... (Well I think that was the brand) I think Dave... Eltenor.... was complaing about this. What other brands are good? How is Napa for longetivety.. Or autobarn? Im pickey.....

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What concerns me is this.. When the rear brakes failed on me sept 03, The Rear bowl closest to the firewall had fluid about 1/8 inch deep from the bottom. It was real now. I filled it back up and bled the brakes. All seemed fine and the pedal traveled down alot less then it ever did. Before the brakes are real spongy.

As the months went on, the pedal felt a little more spongy. One day I was on the brakes and the pedal feel went soft for a second and then firmed back up. When I checked the fluid level after that I noticed that it was down maybe 1/4 inch from the max level mark.

Hmm...

Well I guess I wont know Untill I See what is going on behind those wheels. Tommrow seems like a nice day.. A Tire Rotation is due too.


Once I start using these cars.. The problems always turn up.... Haha..
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Noise description only[without actual hands on eyeballing], inorder to diagnose automobile issues is just guessing.
When it comes to The Braking System in cars, you don't want to be guessing OR waiting too long to diagnose and repair any braking abnormalities[for obvious reasons].

Since you sound a little shakey on Brake System diagnosing/repair, I'd enlist someone with more experience/knowledge, to work with you, inorder to better help your skill level.
This is not a very complicated System[if you're not dealing w/ABS].
Once you do a few, hands on Brake Jobs, your skill & confidence level will rise dramatically.
As the saying goes, "Experience is the Best Teacher".

As far as Rebuilt Caliper brands go, nowadays there are only a few huge Rebuilders that supply rebuilt components to the major chains, & some independents[one that comes to mind, is Cardone].
Most Auto Part retailers Do Not rebuild what they sell.
You mention NAPA. I don't know who does their rebuilding[they may use multiple sources], but I'm impressed with their quality. Unfortunately, the NAPA near my home went out of business[knowledgeable, good pricing, & good warranty].
If you have a NAPA by you, you can't go wrong[but of course, nothing is 100%].

When you get to troubleshooting, :eek: MAKE SURE you also follow all Hard Brake Lines to inspect for leaking[porousity]. I'm sure you're familiar with the many members here, that have had corroded Brake Lines.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
K gotcha..... Ill figure it all out.

I always ask too many questions about things I never have done (Caliper replacment) when I can usally figure out things by myself. Im kinda a perfectionist and want the best in everything and to know too much. I dunno..



BTW.. This whole concern question of mine was not on a B-body.. hehe My questions still refer toa Fullsize RWD GM Vehicle though, w/o ABS.


I priced Calipers at auto barn for $62 per side,
BECK/ARNLEY brand. Ill look around somemore tommorow. Im sure they are shot.. It really wants to pull to the right under braking.

Yeah the rear brake that runs from the MC to the rear poped on wagon a few years ago. :eek:

Ill check the lines.

Thanks again larry for fully explaining all my questions.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Originally posted by GM B Body:
I always ask too many questions about things I never have done (Caliper replacment) ..... </font>
  • Cigar---That's a good thing.</font>

BTW.. This whole concern question of mine was not on a B-body.. hehe My questions still refer toa Fullsize RWD GM Vehicle though, w/o ABS. </font>
  • Cigar---Same hydraulic principle, & Hardware is identical or close.</font>

I priced Calipers at auto barn for $62 per side,
BECK/ARNLEY brand. Ill look around somemore tommorow. Im sure they are shot.. It really wants to pull to the right under braking. </font>
  • Cigar---I find Auto Barn overpriced, Strauss Auto too.</font>

Thanks again larry for fully explaining all my questions.
Brian, thanks for over rating my help, I almost never FULLY explain things.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
$62 a caliper for a full-size GM RWD vehicle? I'd keep shopping. I spent roughly $13 each at Autozone a few weeks ago for LIFETIME WARRANTEE calipers.

Another easy way to tell if a caliper is sticking is go drive 5 miles of normal driving (not the crazy insane driving many b-body owners do), then park the car and put your hand on each of the rims. The sticking caliper will be a noticeably different temperature (either hotter or colder, usually hotter) than the rest.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I couldent mess with the 94 Sierra this weekend (had 4 days off too... Man...) B/C it was all of about 30 outside. Brake performance was getting real bad So It had to be fixed ASAP.

I let a shop take care of it.... 2 Blown calipers... New rotors.. The rear Wheel cylinders were fine. Perhaps the Caliper was leaking causing the Fluid level to drop... Or the pistion could of just been real extended. The pedal was getting spongy!!! The last time anything was replaced was at 75k... 112k now

The popping noise from the rear when the truck is cold, might be comming from the rear leaf springs... Time for a 2/4 Hotchkis Drop maybe? :D

Now.. When it gets warm Ill take those Impala rear Calipers off and check the pins. (SS is parked for a few months now)

Im happy now.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I talked to someone at AutoZone Fri. and said they don't carry calipers for 94-96 anymore. Called Napa and their calipers come only with pads already. They were $120 without core and $84 with core. I believe they were Wagner something's. Is this a good deal?
 
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