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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a 93 Roadmaster 2 days ago. Before driving it home 135 miles, I gassed up and reset the trip meter. The next day I noticed the trip meter only said 58. After looking closer I noticed that neither the Odometer or trip meter are always working. In fact after re-setting the trip meter and driving another 10 miles, neither the odometer or trip meter moved. Speedometer works fine all the time.

It was hit in the left front before I bought it, so I wondered if that might cause the odometer not to work. My son put in a new front core support and radiator before I could drive it home. Now I need to figure out how to replace the fender.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply....As for the fender, I have the inner and outer fender. I noticed yesterday that the wheelhouse does have some damage near the front right. I'm new to replacing body parts, so I don't know if will work as is or not. See the picture I've attached.

About the odometer..if it's a bad circuit board, are you suggesting that I would replace just the board and not the whole cluster? How much would you sell a circuit board for? I'm assuming then that the odometer and trip meter are controlled electronically?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How to remove cluster 1993 RM

I'm going to tackle replacing the circuit board in the cluster. Can anyone give me any tips/instructions for removing the dash to get to it?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Fred for the great instructions!!

I swapped out the circuit board and to my surprise (I didn't think it would fix it) the odometer and trip meter are working perfectly so far with after driving about 60 miles. The cruise light on the dash does not work with the new circuit board. That's probably a lamp??

Also, I'm pretty sure the speedometer was right on before I changed the board, and now it reads 75mph, when the GPS says 70. Could the circuit board cause that?

To remove the dash, you have a lot of screws to take out, and you need a 7mm socket. First remove the two screws that hold the column access panel to the support at the bottom. Next carefully remove the column access panel. Next tilt the steering wheel in the full down position and remove the tilt lever if you can. Remove the 4 screws that hold the glove box door and remove the glove box door. There is one screw under the dash at the brake release, one at the driver's side of the glove box, and 5 across the underside of the dash pad. Chock the wheels, and shift the car into 1st gear. You can now gently pull the dash off of its clips. It may take some wiggling to get it past the steering column, the bottom of the dash pad, and other assorted pieces that interfere with it. There are a couple of receptacles for the column access cover clips that like to catch on the bottom of the support. You can put the gear shift lever back in park once you have the dash out.

The cluster comes out with 4 7mm screws, and be careful to remove the gear position indicator cable from the left side of the rotating part of the column. The cluster comes out by rotating the bottom toward you and removing it to the left. The shift lever can be in park, and you can still get it out, although you may find it easier with the shift lever in 1st.

You need a 5.5 mm socket or a small torx bit to remove the screws on the back of the cluster. The caution in removing and installation of the circuit board is that you get the dual trace screws in the correct tracks in the plastic when reassembling, or you will strip the plastic. The traces are different sizes. You should be able to turn the screws at least half way in with your fingers. If they are tight, you have remove them, and get them to go in the other track.

When reinstalling, the cluster in the dash, remember to hook the gear indicator cable up to the column, and adjust it so that it shows evenly in neutral window with a little white in each dot on both sides of the top of the neutral window.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the explanation. You are an encyclopedia of info regarding these cars. The number on the build sheet in the trunk is: GM8 and I'm running stock tires 235/70/15. Does the GM8 indicate what the gears are? I was more curious than anything. Maybe I will get taller tires when these are worn out.

The change may be related to why the other parts did not work. If the odometers had a bad circuit it may have influenced the speedo. My speedos have always run high by about 3 at 50 MPH with the stock tires. Your odometer probably runs a little fast as well. I put 29 inch tires on my white OCC (stock is 28 inch), and the speedo is about correct. The nature of the 91-93 VSS makes it almost impossible to get it exactly correct. You could change the driven gear by making it one tooth smaller, but the gears are almost impossible to find. What gears do you have in your car (SPID code G??, and your tire size)? If you know the gear ratio, you can look for the gear you need. An electronic pulse modifier is available if you want to correct it easily without having to look for the gear.
 
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