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anyone running one on the LT1's? i know LS1 owners are using them but what about LT1's?
Although they never really caught on in this group, they seem like a good idea to me. Whenever I've taken an intake off an LT1, it was always coated on the inside with oil.
 

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Although they never really caught on in this group, they seem like a good idea to me. Whenever I've taken an intake off an LT1, it was always coated on the inside with oil.
I run one for my stroker that tends to suck up oil and now I have a dry intake and the dam thing cost me only 20 bucks.
 

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I run one for my stroker that tends to suck up oil and now I have a dry intake and the dam thing cost me only 20 bucks.
Pictures?

Part numbers?

Thank you. :)
 

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I give that EBay seller props ... those are very reasonable prices for nice catch cans.

I chose a different route.

I combine a Deutsch [Breather Filter] BF412


with a NAPA Inline Fuel Filter 3299


Using both together, works just fine for me. No buildup on the throttle body.

(Sorry, I don't have a pic of both in unison.)

Although they never really caught on in this group, they seem like a good idea to me. Whenever I've taken an intake off an LT1, it was always coated on the inside with oil.
Actively preventing an engine from inhaling crankcase fumes is never a bad idea - engines were only meant to burn air and fuel.

I'm going to be putting another NAPA 3299 behind the PCV valve soon, so I can further reduce the amount of buildup inside the intake manifold.
 

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Hey BarryG can you post up where the connections for that catch can go? I see one side going to intake manifold, is that just replacing where the PCV valve used to connect in?
And the other line? I see what looks like the one hose splitting off into multiple places?
 

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I do run an oil catch can on my 96 SS. Without it, on high-G left hand turns on a road course such as Gateway, the oil collects in the passenger-side valve cover and is pulled into the throttle body causing blue smoke to billow out the exhaust.





Adding a catch can eliminated this problem. My car is not a show car, so my system is functional, not pretty. It would be easy enough to "pretty it up" if that is important to you.

I use a passenger side valve cover on both sides of the engine so that I can scavange oil vapors from both heads. I use the factory grommet and elbow on both sides.



I bought an inexpensive catch can from (I think) Jegs and mounted it on my AC dryer. It came with a breather filter on top, but that gave me a vacuum leak when plumbed to the throttle body. So I capped the top where the the breather was installed. That cap is just a rubber chair/table leg cover from the local hardware store, but it fits perfectly.





One port on the catch can goes to the throttle body. The other port goes to a tee with one branch going to each valve cover. You cannot see the tee very well in this photo - it is under the line to the throttle body. You can see it under that line in the 2nd engine bay photo.



Here are photos with the RAISS intake removed so that you can see how the driver's side vacuum line is routed.



 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I work at Lashway Motorsports. and we have a custom can made if anyone is interested. im going to be installing one on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Lashway Motorsports, Inc. of Pompano Beach, FL
"Your local LSx Specialists" and all around good guys!
(954) 971-4383 [email protected]


here are a few pics

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a4/erikthegoalie/latestcatchcans001.jpg







AND THIS IS FOR FORCED INDUCTION



Measures 7" long by 3" tube size. Comes with all hardware including bolts, fastners, all tubing & he correct bracket for his make/model/year car as well as instructions with pictures

____________________________________________________

For all the angry little elves out there, here are some interior shots

Yeah, if you don't like us, our products, or Josh's stunning looks, then pound it!




This is a good view of the interior baffles which help retain the oil deposits.

Here, we'll do better. So, you wanna know if we stand behind the products we sell, ok. I took a can and cut the sum bitch in half so all you folks out there can see exactly how it works. The oil makes its way down the tube in the center of the can where it cools and condenses. As it does this , it collects at the bottom and allows the cool, clean air to rise and make its way to the intake manifold. As you can see, the can is also free of any mesh which saturates and releases oil back into the air stream!

Enjoy on our behalf, and our profit loss on this particular can...









________________________________________________________
Installed on a LS1 Camaro





 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
heres a very long in depth explination of the needing of a catch can____________________________________________

Understanding the need for
a proper PCV oil separating catchcan

Any engine driven hard will ingest a certain amount of oil into the intake air system resulting in loss of power, detonation, and long term carbon buildup on the pistons & valves reducing the velocity and flow through the engine.

Preventing this on a street driven car subject to emissions requires some simple modifications to the closed OEM PCV system.

On all out race applications where emission rules do not apply, this is accomplished in different ways, but proper crankcase ventilation is a must! The crankcase gets filled with harmful combustion byproducts that if not evacuated will cause internal damage to your engine and shorten the usable life. These byproducts include: Sulfuric acids, abrasive carbon particles, unburnt fuel, water, and more. If you do not have a proper crankcase evacuation system these compounds will condense inside the engine and mix with the oil as well as begin corroding internal parts. It is NOT enough to just vent the crankcase pressure through a breather, but it must be flushed with a filtered fresh air source to carry these out & away. In an OEM system, these are burnt in the combustion chamber & further in the catalytic converters.

In an off-road or race application, the engine is normally not used to burn them off.
At the very least drag only motors have a scavenge evac system in the header collectors to pull vac, and anyone that's serious has a belt driven vac pump.....especially the Alky motors due to the amount of moisture the alcohol introduces to the crankcase. Next time your at a sanctioned (NHRA/IHRA) race walk around the pits and look at the dragster motors and how they evac. You will see that any w/a vac pump run a relief valve on the opposite valve cover because if you pull any more than 14-15" of vac you start to pull oil off the wrist pins & rod journals.
dum
Want to see whats in your oil? A simple oil analysis will show you how much harmful stuff ends up in it.


The oil analysis will show the acid build up....and no, it takes a year or two before you would see any substantial damage to your internal engine parts.....but an easy way is after 6 months or so of running like you describe pull a valve cover and look and the corrosion from the vapors on your rocker arms. This is the first place it is visible.

Bottom line is, w/out a proper evac system you WILL sustain long term engine damage. It may take a few years to notice, but I build motors 6 days a week when not racing and see the results first hand.

There are several other ways for oil mist to enter the intake manifold, the PCV system is the most common with the fresh air make up source (the fitting on the top rear of your throttle body) being the second most common. To eliminate that you need to cap the TB fitting and run a valve cover breather (installed as far from the crankcase vent as possible...ideally you want to pull filtered fresh air in one valve cover & evac it out the other or the LS6/LS2 style valley cover is second best) Then if it is excess crankcase pressure pushing oil vapor/mist out faster than the PCV can evac it you will see it pushed back through the line from the pass valve cover front to the TB and it is ingested from there. The 3rd point of ingestion is from reversion. This of course needs at least one piston/ring/bore/valveguide or seal issue that is allowing oil to be pulled into that one or more intake port and at high RPM's the reversion pulse will "push" that oil throughout the entire intake manifold. It will appear to have entered from the vac fitting that the PCV system uses but is really from one of the cylinders (reversion is a whole different process that is not widely understood but do a Google search and you can actually find some super high speed video of engines on dyno's where at high RPM's...9-10-12K plus the reversion cloud of A/F mixture is actually rising out of the intake runners or carb on a non fuel injected motor). To test for that just place a clean clear fuel filter inline between the catch can outlet and the vac fitting. If it gets oil on the can side, oil is coming through the can. If it first appears on the intake vacuum side, then it is reversion so you have a deeper issue.
dum
Having engine smoke or excess crankcase pressure? There may be a deeper issue. On the LS motors we pull apart it is usually # 7 ringland broken between the compression & middle ring, or the land itself broke off at the top. We also find the top ringland pinched or crushed down on the top ring (comp. ring) and metal transfer along the piston side has caused the oil & scraper ring to stick allowing oil & blow-by. Also, try this: at idle (vac is at it's greatest when at idle or when the throttle blade closes from high RPM's) remove the oil fill cap and hold your hand over it. Does it pull a slight suction? If so, all is good with most of the system and I doubt you have a damaged piston/ring/bore. But if there is ANY pressure pushing back you have a deeper issue and that is the cause of the oil problem.

Now on big cam/stroker builds a can inline on the dirty side, and a can inline from the fresh air source may be needed (the bigger the bore & longer the stroke, the more crankcase pressure is built up) If it is forced induction, then you have a whole new process to deal with......and that is the PCV system works properly when at idle & non-boost, but when you start making boost you have switched from the intake manifold being negative atmosphere to a pressurized component and the PCV system is rendered useless and pressure escapes wherever it can. The solution then is to have one way check valves inline so the vacuum need for proper evacuation comes from in front of the compressor (head unit) through a line run to the air filter.

This is getting a bit long and I hope all can follow this, but if not ask me specific questions for clarification so this helps all. I'll go over every type of solution and the pros & cons of each....and remember, this problem is NOT just in the GM LS based engines, but is an issue with ALL modern closed systems. We just tear into our cars where as the Mercedes or Lincoln owner never even realizes there is an issue.

I also wanted to address the water in the oil. You will NOT fill your crankcase up in short order with just breathers. What happens is each time your engine reaches operating temp the unburnt fuel, water vapor, combustion by-products will gas or "flash-off" as vapor. But only the excess crankcase pressure being relieved through the breather will carry any of that out....and without a proper evac system, a good amount remains in the crankcase and re-condenses back to droplets that coat the internal engine parts as your motor cools down and it contaminates the oil. Every time you heat cycle you are adding more contamination and it is not very visible to just "look" at your oil....you need a professional analysis to see just what is accumulating in your oil and how it is breaking down its ability to protect...but the corrosion from the sulfuric acid is also very damaging over time (I'll try to post up some pics of parts showing just this in the near future). Just pull the dipstick on a diesel 20 miles after an oil change...it already "looks" black & dirty, but is still new and providing the proper protection. Sight is deceiving. Oil might look pretty clean or dirty but an analysis report will show destructive levels of contaminants.

And finally, some have gone so far as to cap off the entire system and run an open hose from each valve cover to near the ground. While this will eliminate all oil getting into the intake via the PCV system, the damage done by the hose with the least amount of air moving past it while at speed will suck dirt/sand/dust/water/and who knows what else directly into the motor via that valve cover. It may take some time (depending on how clean the roads you drive on are) but will result in premature engine wear & failure.

The solution for the street crowd is a properly designed, good functioning oil separating catchcan. Many are available on the market, but ONLY one designed with internal baffling and a good distance separating the inlet from the outlet. Many of the cans seen for low prices on Ebay, etc. are great looking, but are nothing but empty cans with two fittings attached. Do your homework & get a full understanding before you make your selection.
 

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How well does that intake cooler work?

You mean the fans on the intake. Well they were an experiment that I have had for over 10 years now. What is interesting is that it does take some heat off the intake but untill I looked at it with a thermal gun I did not realilize that it was cooling the gas rails it is attached too. It was reducing the heat off the rails and on a hot day on a road course I did not get any vapor barrier problems.
 

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I work at Lashway Motorsports. and we have a custom can made if anyone is interested. im going to be installing one on my car.
price?
 

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I sent him a PM yesterday on the price, I have not heard back yet......
 

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Yea I'm curious on how much as well as this design seems pretty nice to me! so there's no filter you'd have to worry about as I see some other catch can designs use and on our cars there should be somewhere away from the motor/headers to mount to even take full advantage of the oil vapor condensing the best it can, unlike our LS1 brethren! Haha!!!
 

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Has anybody bought and used the catch can from 1BadassGN above? If so, how do you like the product? I tried to pm him but it looks like he hasn't been to this site in a couple of months. I have a sc'ed LT1 and am looking for the best setup and that one looked pretty straightforward.
 
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