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Anyone tried it? I was told I could get the delete lines from an astro van

That's kinda confusing what you're asking and not sure where the Astro Van comes in. But if you are looking to remove your oil cooler setup cause the lines are leaking or for some other reason, just search "oil cooler delete" on the forum.

Many of us have replaced the rubber lines with a variation of braided hose and or AN fittings or clamps. Others have also decided to just remove the setup altogether and there are some options there. Again, just use search and you will find a bunch of options you may not have heard about and forget the Astro thing.

Edit - here is just 1 thread to remove.....http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=350817&highlight=Oil+cooler+delete

And another on how to keep the cooler.....

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=235761&highlight=Oil+cooler+delete
 

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eliminates the possibility that damage to either cooler will cause oil and antifreeze to mix.
True, but just to clarify, this is not a problem if you run the External 9C1 Oil Cooler setup. I'm crazy anyway, I added both (external trans and Engine oil) cooler setups to my car. The L99 engine originally only had the In-Rad Trans cooler.

But to be fair, this problem also exists with the built-in Transmission cooler and most if not all cars have this in the rad too. I'm sure it happens, but very seldom do you hear of issues like this happening. There are some that delete the in Rad trans cooler, but there is a valid reason for keeping it....which eludes me at the moment.
 

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I deleted it, and will do so again when I get my next B or D car.
Bought an L99 oil filter adapter, which fits perfectly in place of your present oil filter adapter and uses the same oil filters, but deletes all the lines.

Unless you race or otherwise make your car work 'really really hard', an external oil cooler is way overkill, and a bad idea in subfreezing winters.

Even an internal oil cooler is unnecessary, though helpful in cold winters for those who must insist on non-synthetic motor oils - meaning anything other than 0W__ (to oversimplify a bit, synthetic 0W__ is MORE synthetic than 5W__ ).

Cheaper than replacing unnecessary cooling lines and/or upgrading GM's penny pinching, uses a bit less motor oil, improves oil pressure, and eliminates the possibility that damage to either cooler will cause oil and antifreeze to mix.
(To be clear, I'm speaking of external coolers [not in-radiator coolers].)
True, but just to clarify, this is not a problem if you run the External 9C1 Oil Cooler setup. I'm crazy anyway, I added both (external trans and Engine oil) cooler setups to my car. The L99 engine originally only had the In-Rad Trans cooler.

But to be fair, this problem also exists with the built-in Transmission cooler and most if not all cars have this in the rad too. I'm sure it happens, but very seldom do you hear of issues like this happening. There are some that delete the in Rad trans cooler, but there is a valid reason for keeping it … which eludes me at the moment.
In-radiator coolers raise the temp of the 'fluid in question' more quickly in cold weather by being adjacent to surfaces in contact with coolant, which warms up faster than either motor or transmission oils.
This is especially helpful in subfreezing winters, but useless in hot summers.
Without the in-radiator cooler, the 'fluid in question' takes much longer to reach operating temperature.
However, if the in-radiator cooler fails, the 'fluid in question' may mix with coolant, which will effectively contaminate both very rapidly.

External coolers simply take advantage of forward motion to lower the temperature of the 'fluid in question' whenever there is a headwind, usually when the car is moving forward. They should be covered during subfreezing winters.
 
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