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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello i think i have a oil leak on my 95 ss. I think its coming from the water pump, opti, air pump area and is sprayed all over the front of the enigine i dont know where its coming from and im starting to get concerned. The car runs fine but i wanna do performance upgrades but not till this is fixed. I really dont know if its the water pump failing or what it is. By the way oil gauge runs 3/4, coolant temp never really goes past half if that helps. Can someone please fill me in as to what this could be thank you.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dude I jus went thru that same problem a few months back it was my wp seal and timing chain gaskets were wore out hurry and change or you gonna be running thru optis real quick so when you check it out check your opti good 2.
Ok so just the seals? And is that the only possibility?
 

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Hello i think i have a oil leak on my 95 ss. I think its coming from the water pump, opti, air pump area and is sprayed all over the front of the enigine i dont know where its coming from and im starting to get concerned. By the way oil gauge runs 3/4, coolant temp never really goes past half if that helps.
Yes, as stated above, there is a leak most likely coming from both the optispark timing cover seal and the water pump drive shaft seal also in the timing cover. Both are replaceable but you will need to remove the harmonic balancer, water pump, and optispark. You will need a seal puller tool (available for about $10 at Harbor Freight) and a water pump drive shaft seal installation tool (there was a GP on these going). You can search the forums for the procedures to replace them all as it has been discussed multiple times.

As far as the gauge goes that is COMPLETELY normal for the oil pressure gauge to read 3/4's, by the way of the sender used from the factory. All 94-96 B-bodies EXCEPT for 9C1 (and possibly 1A2 Wagons and 9C6 taxi models) came with an oil pressure switch as opposed to an oil pressure sender. GM did this because they were cheap and it works most of the time. You can easily convert the OP switch to the OP sender. Can either use the stock 80PSI sender or go with the "truck" 60PSI sender which more closely matches the oil pressure range of the car(stock doesn't go much above 50-60PSI. The procedure for this has also been discussed many times, and does involve changing the sender and removing a biasing resistor to make the gauge read properly. Search the forums for how to do it. - Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, as stated above, there is a leak most likely coming from both the optispark timing cover seal and the water pump drive shaft seal also in the timing cover. Both are replaceable but you will need to remove the harmonic balancer, water pump, and optispark. You will need a seal puller tool (available for about $10 at Harbor Freight) and a water pump drive shaft seal installation tool (there was a GP on these going). You can search the forums for the procedures to replace them all as it has been discussed multiple times.

As far as the gauge goes that is COMPLETELY normal for the oil pressure gauge to read 3/4's, by the way of the sender used from the factory. All 94-96 B-bodies EXCEPT for 9C1 (and possibly 1A2 Wagons and 9C6 taxi models) came with an oil pressure switch as opposed to an oil pressure sender. GM did this because they were cheap and it works most of the time. You can easily convert the OP switch to the OP sender. Can either use the stock 80PSI sender or go with the "truck" 60PSI sender which more closely matches the oil pressure range of the car(stock doesn't go much above 50-60PSI. The procedure for this has also been discussed many times, and does involve changing the sender and removing a biasing resistor to make the gauge read properly. Search the forums for how to do it. - Peter
ok i only have basic tools so im probaly not going to be able to do this my self can anybody tell me how much im going to have to pay for a shop to do it ?
 

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It really only requires basic tools and a Sharpie marker end can be used for seal installation [what I used sucessfully]. No seal puller required, just a small screw to run into the outer metal part of the seal to pull/pry it out. You'll need a pully puller if your harmonic balancer is tight, which you can borrow with a refundable deposit from many chain auto parts stores.

It's not that involved and there are some good write ups here to get you through it or maybe a member close by that can help [no location in your profile].

I'd invest the money you'll save [some have said around $500 bucks] on labor by doing it yourself on a set of plugs & wires and at minimum a new cap & rotor for the opti [depending on what it looks like inside] and a new water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It really only requires basic tools and a Sharpie marker end can be used for seal installation [what I used sucessfully]. No seal puller required, just a small screw to run into the outer metal part of the seal to pull/pry it out. You'll need a pully puller if your harmonic balancer is tight, which you can borrow with a refundable deposit from many chain auto parts stores.

It's not that involved and there are some good write ups here to get you through it or maybe a member close by that can help [no location in your profile].

I'd invest the money you'll save [some have said around $500 bucks] on labor by doing it yourself on a set of plugs & wires and at minimum a new cap & rotor for the opti [depending on what it looks like inside] and a new water pump.
yea sorry i just fixed that i live in long island ny. right now i really dont have the money to replace that all so for now im going to try and worry bout the gaskets.
 

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$20 some bucks for the Felpro kit at Advance Auto Parts and you'll have all the gaskets and seals you'll need for the job. Another $5 for some Form-a-Gasket sealant [to coat the water pump gaskets and apply to the water pump bolts] and a Sharpie marker and you're set.

If you're a decent wrencher, figure 4-6 hours your first time to remove everything, install the seals and put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Yes, that's the kit you'll need. Not sure if Buffman still sells the tool, you'll have to ask him. He seems to do a batch then sell them out before starting again. You should be able to modify a Sharpie top to do the same. I'll admit, Buffman's seal installer tool is nice, though.

I had to go back in and re-do the seals after replacing the WP & Opti on our 9C1. I originally replaced just the WP seal, but the Opti seal leaked WORSE after the R&R than before (I was originally hoping that would fix the leak the car had). I had to go back in. That really suxored. It took about 6 hours, as indicated, I was trying to be real clean about it with respect to spillage of antifreeze, but I made about the same mess.

I replaced all the seals, the WP, Opti, and the two o-rings, but NOT the timing cover gasket. The car now has no leaks after that. I'm happier now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes, that's the kit you'll need. Not sure if Buffman still sells the tool, you'll have to ask him. He seems to do a batch then sell them out before starting again. You should be able to modify a Sharpie top to do the same. I'll admit, Buffman's seal installer tool is nice, though.

I had to go back in and re-do the seals after replacing the WP & Opti on our 9C1. I originally replaced just the WP seal, but the Opti seal leaked WORSE after the R&R than before (I was originally hoping that would fix the leak the car had). I had to go back in. That really suxored. It took about 6 hours, as indicated, I was trying to be real clean about it with respect to spillage of antifreeze, but I made about the same mess.

I replaced all the seals, the WP, Opti, and the two o-rings, but NOT the timing cover gasket. The car now has no leaks after that. I'm happier now.
ok so ill go with those seals, then is it good thing for maitinece to replace tha wp (i guess elec instead of mechanical) and cap and rotor? plugs and wires to?
 
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