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Welp I picked up a 1996 RMW a month or so ago and now I bought MSD wires, and distributor also got the timing gasket kit...

problem now is that gasket on the bottom of the timing cover. I went out and got the fel-pro gasket.

Now I am having a hell of a time getting the oil pan off...

I got the starter out and the oil cooler...

Any tips and or advice??
 

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Not an easy job but some basics that need to be done......

You need to position the engine to number 6 TDC to align the crank.

You need to remove the oil level sensor in side of pan.

You need to raise the engine about 3 or 4 inches.


Obviously a lot more to this process. Try doing a search here for more info and best to pickup a Haynes or Service Manual which will walk you through the process.
 

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Thanks for the info, welp iI didn't take out the sensor ripped that sucker right out :mad: and I am unsure of how to get it TDC...I tried like hell to search but came up wwih nothing...

If someone could post a like that be sweet...
Pick up a Haynes manual for about $20 and it actually has a decent write up on the process. As for TDC, I believe the pointer on the balancer at the 12:00 position is an indication of #6 or #1 TDC. So if that is pointing up, you have the crank where it needs to be.

If you dont want to bother with a new "leak prone" sensor you can just use a plug. I got one with a magnetic tip and used that instead. I then shorted the 2 leads of the sensor pigtail and wrapped it out of the way. I prefer the dipstick method of checking my oil. :)
 

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BTW - I just did a quick search on "Oil pan removal" and it brought up a couple of pages of stuff. So it does work it you dig through the posts a little.

The 2nd post in this tread has some good, basic info on this but try to grab a manual for the specifics. I also remove the inspection cover from the trans for a little more clearance removing the pan and did not remove the dip stick tube.

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=258990&highlight=oil+pan+removal
 

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While you are in there, put a new oil pump to cam drive connector in. Get a metal one, the nylon ones tend to get brittle and crack...no more oil pressure.
 

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Pick up a Haynes manual for about $20 and it actually has a decent write up on the process. As for TDC, I believe the pointer on the balancer at the 12:00 position is an indication of #6 or #1 TDC. So if that is pointing up, you have the crank where it needs to be.
I one reads the GM service manual, they would find this info partially incorrect .

Yes cast pointer up is 1 and 6 TDC ,however, this is not the best position to remove the oil pan as the crank counterweight interferes with pan removal .

If the cast pointer is facing straight down, the gap between the counter weight and the crank pin is down, affording the most clearance to re&re the pan .

So as per common sense AND the factory service manual ,

The best position for pan removal in the car is

Cast pointer on hub down (6 o'clock) which is cylinder 1 & 6 BDC



The one problem with the LT1 is the hub is not keyed and , although not a functional problem , it can be miss positioned and often is when crank seals or timing chains are done. Then the cast pointer can not be used as reference.
 

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That might be, as I mentioned that was from memory and thought there was a "6" in there somewhere. :). So maybe it is 6:00 position for the pointer.

the Haynes manual does mention this and for $20, its a good investment for this and other repairs too.
 

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Hey guys! After reading this thread I removed the harmonic balancer, the hub and timing cover with out marking where the pin was on the cranks will this be a problem? It sounds like it might be! Is there anyway I can position it right for installation using the dowel pin on the camshaft sprocket?

Sorry for reviving this thread I know it from last year.
 

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You could just alighn the dots on the Timing Gear Set which should (I believe) put you at 1 or 6 TDC. Or pull the Rocker Cover and look at the valves clowsing on the 1 Cylinder

IIRC - when I removed my hub, there was almost a mark of some sort on the inside where the slot is in the Crank for a Key. You should see a Stain or marking on the inside of the hub that should get you in the ball park.

Speaking of the key, it is recommended you install a new hub that uses a key or have yours machined so that you can use a Key. This will prevent the Hub from spiining on the Crank. I did not do this at the time I reinstalled mine and I've been OK so far without it. Just something to consider.
 

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4DoorSS thanks for replying I was just looking at some pics I took of the gears but I can't seem to identify the the dots you are talking about but I will have to check it personally on the car. ALSO regarding the "key" your talking about the woodruff key correct? And if I buy a new hub (which I was already planning on doing) I don't require to machine I could just easily install with no problem?
 

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Yes, that would be a woodruff key. I just did a Search "woodruff key" and happened to find this thread. :)

http://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/showthread.php?t=269740&highlight=woodruff+key'

I had similar concerns as yours getting it back on there correctly. But as I mentioned and I believe Rocko did as well, there should be some discolorization inside the hub reavealing sort of where it sat before.

The aftermarket kits that are out there usually have a Hub, Key and new balancer. they will most likely include assorted washers as the different LT1 cars (Camaro, Vette, Caprice) have different spacing needs for accesories differences. Be sure to get a kit that is compatable or maybe just consider machining your old hub as Rocko did. I wish I had did mine but my next upgrade will just be a new Balancer setup as I hate the ugly stocker and yes the Aftermarket Hubs are usually slotted for this already.
 

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