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Discussion Starter #21
Woow, that board of yours is a bit of a turd!
You should have this one :)
🙂 it works—- at least I think it does as of now. ****Im paying attention to your demonstration of your bench test you are showing. I’m interested as I may attempt it if I can understand it all after you are done. One thing though——I see you have a pair of the “female-In-dash-pin-plugs” handy on your work area. Am I going to be able to execute your test demonstration as my “female-In-dash-pin-plugs” are “in my vehicles dash” permanently and I have no spare pair?
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
Anybody know where the location of the resistor is specifically? I already removed the Glove box door. Do I need to take off the whole under dash panel? I see about three areas that Im guessing the resistor may possibly be located because I see black electrical tape. I posted the areas on the photo. If anybody can point me to the area and which wire loomb/bundle that has the resistor in it and what the resistor looks like I appreciate it.
“Area A” meaning to the left there
“Area B” meaning behind the grey strip of plastic near the latch.
“Area C” meaning right there in one of those taped bundles.
*****any easier descriptions of how to find the resistor appreciated and welcomed. Thanks.
24CD582B-0E56-4B59-BBEE-9CCB60BE4034.jpeg
 

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Although i have plugs around somewhere,
Those pictures were not mine, they were the other canadian helping you here;)
I used some pcm terminals and heat shrink for insulators.

A back yard terminal that works for testing ,
Take a piece of wire and ram a pick up inside of it to make a cavity
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I like a good bench test as much as the next person, maybe more. But would it not be worth a little time to pop the glove box door and wiggle the harness.

For me the next step would be to check for ground and voltage at pin A5
of C1. Why play with the cluster if the wiring never grounds the input pin?
Thanks for the photo of the resistor location. Do you think it’s possible for that resistor to be malfunctioning? I took the glove box off. I’d like to snoop around in the resistor area and see if I can jump a temporary wire from post resistor to ground to see if that does anything?? And, as far as your next step you would take of “checking for ground and voltage at pin A5
of C1” where are these pin locations? Are they in my dash? Are they the two plug blocks that receive the instrument cluster? And if they are, can you clarify how to achieve this test as I’m kind of not clear what “checking for ground at pin A5 of C1” specifically means. Can you reiterate and explain how I can execute. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Although i have plugs around somewhere,
Those pictures were not mine, they were the other canadian helping you here;)
I used some pcm terminals and heat shrink for insulators.

A back yard terminal that works for testing ,
Take a piece of wire and ram a pick up inside of it to make a cavity
Oops. Sorry. Wrong person. ☺... I’m fine with the shoving the pick up the wire and plugging the wire on the pin technique. Done it before and thanks for showing/advising/helping. Appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Although i have plugs around somewhere,
Those pictures were not mine, they were the other canadian helping you here;)
I used some pcm terminals and heat shrink for insulators.

A back yard terminal that works for testing ,
Take a piece of wire and ram a pick up inside of it to make a cavity
Can I ask which book this is and what page? I have the 3 volume 1995 FSM. Is that the same red book set?
 

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🙂 ****Im paying attention to your demonstration of your bench test you are showing. I’m interested as I may attempt it if I can understand it all after you are done.
Thought I was ;)

 

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Can I ask which book this is and what page? I have the 3 volume 1995 FSM. Is that the same red book set?
I suggest you sit and read right through the books on day when not looking for anything in particular.

Most Electrical I was looking at was BOOK 2
Caprice Impala cluster stuff is mostly 8A-82-0 to 8A-82-21
Ground distribution is mostly 8A-14-0 to 8A-14-10
 

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"as far as your next step you would take of “checking for ground and voltage at pin A5
of C1” where are these pin locations? Are they in my dash? Are they the two plug blocks that receive the instrument cluster?"

Have a look at 20191201_181632.jpg and read over 95Wagon's posts. He shows you the side of the board with A5 (signal) and B4 (ignition power) That is C1. The FSM says left. (as seen from the drivers seat)

With the key out there are two tests for A5. With a volt meter you could connect to A5 and the center pin of your cigarette lighter socket. You should get the same voltage as measuring between the center pin and outer barrel of the cigarette lighter socket. The better test is if you put a multi meter in Ohms and check between A5 and ground. Again the outer barrel of the cigarette lighter socket is a easy ground. You should get a number very close to Zero.

Regarding post #20 and resoldering. A good solder will be shiny a bad one will look like dull lead. My experience with these clusters makes me recommend this: Remove all solder with a vacuum or solder wick. Clean pins with a swab or rub with clean paper. Resolder with electronic solder with resin. Some times you need a extra supply of electronic solder resin to get the pin to bond with the solder. After cleaning your work every part should be shiny and the pin should look like it is part of the solder.

Before doing any test be very sure you have the pin position correct. The tests that have you apply power to the cluster should be done with care. Clusters are getting hard to get.

You and 95Wagon have put up some good cluster pictures. Just a reminder about the cluster fix thread. The pins with bad or cracked solder are more important than the pad "fix"

 

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The other A5 C1 test would be to unplug the sensor at the engine. Again with key out use a Ohm meter to measure A5 to ground. You should measure close to the 68 Ohms of the resistor in the harness.

If you get near Zero from the switch and near 68 Ohms when the switch is unplugged I think this proves the wiring is good and you have a cluster problem, gauge or circuit board based.

The common test method in repairs is to check a circuit at the half way point. Since this is the resistor and it is wrapped in the wiring harness A5 C1 is the next best choice. If you get proper test readings at A5 the next test would be of the cluster.

If 95Wagon has had this problem before he may be betting on a bad ground to the cluster (C2 A6). Other cluster grounds are C2 B6 and C1 B3
 

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Not me;) never had a problem with mine.
The only reason i have this is because i changed to 96 impala in my car.
The reason it is apart is because I gave someone the water and volt gauges.

I just took it out to the garage yesterday to verify what I was saying and to positively follow the traces before giving " shoot from the hip" bad info like some others like to.
Not referring to this thread
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well, my resistor is still there. This means the resistor mod has not been done. It had a piece of really old crunchy duct-type-tape over the resistor and the sticky black tape over that and tucked away like nobody ever touched it. I used a test light ground clamped at the kick panel, and next touched the tip of the test light to the area I’m pinching in the pic (tan side) and the oil pressure needle goes from high, bumps to operating range, all this while the vehicle is running. I took the lower half of my dash off and removed my radio. I want to clean up under my dash, while looking for/ diagnosing this problem. Note: I don’t know if this helps, or has anything to do with my oil pressure gauge problem, previously before the oil pressure guage problem, I posted a thread some time ago about my fuel guage going from whatever reading and maxing/pegging out when I shut off the vehicle. It’s done this for years and I noticed it after I replaced my fuel sending unit with a brand new Ac Delco from Rockauto. The fuel guage also pegs out/maxes out if I push the brake with the key out. I just wonder being that both gauges (fuel and oil pressure) are on the left side this is showing that the left side or problem started with a fluxuaring gas guage to the oil pressure, finally being a cluster problem the whole time. Anyway. I got my cluster out again, lower dash exposed, resistor exposed. I’m going to start making some little pieces of leads to do these tests and post about what I’m doing and probably some questions. I’m seeing how the photos show these home made bench test leads/test probes are coming off the back of the cluster. I’m confused about what the other end is plugging in to. The terminology I’m not too hip too so bear with me. I’m starting to understand a couple of the test according to the book. Anyway, I’m probably going to have to ask some silly questions as I don’t do this every day. Hopefully I get some answers. Thanks again.
76140E7D-313D-414C-BE23-4A4BDF1AA378.jpeg
76140E7D-313D-414C-BE23-4A4BDF1AA378.jpeg
 

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On the bench test, sorry ,thought it was obvious
Black wire goes to a battery neg
Pink wire goes to battery pos
Tan wire momentarily touches battery neg to simulate the oil pressure switch closing.

Gas gauge moving when you touch the brake with the ign off, typically reeks of grounding issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
"as far as your next step you would take of “checking for ground and voltage at pin A5
of C1” where are these pin locations? Are they in my dash? Are they the two plug blocks that receive the instrument cluster?"

Have a look at 20191201_181632.jpg and read over 95Wagon's posts. He shows you the side of the board with A5 (signal) and B4 (ignition power) That is C1. The FSM says left. (as seen from the drivers seat)

With the key out there are two tests for A5. With a volt meter you could connect to A5 and the center pin of your cigarette lighter socket. You should get the same voltage as measuring between the center pin and outer barrel of the cigarette lighter socket. The better test is if you put a multi meter in Ohms and check between A5 and ground. Again the outer barrel of the cigarette lighter socket is a easy ground. You should get a number very close to Zero.

Regarding post #20 and resoldering. A good solder will be shiny a bad one will look like dull lead. My experience with these clusters makes me recommend this: Remove all solder with a vacuum or solder wick. Clean pins with a swab or rub with clean paper. Resolder with electronic solder with resin. Some times you need a extra supply of electronic solder resin to get the pin to bond with the solder. After cleaning your work every part should be shiny and the pin should look like it is part of the solder.

Before doing any test be very sure you have the pin position correct. The tests that have you apply power to the cluster should be done with care. Clusters are getting hard to get.

You and 95Wagon have put up some good cluster pictures. Just a reminder about the cluster fix thread. The pins with bad or cracked solder are more important than the pad "fix"

Here is my A 5 to Ground ohms reading. (A5 to outer barrel of cigarette lighter.) when I did the test other test (A5 to center Pin of cigarette lighter) , I got almost the same volts- maybe 1 volt difference. Is my ohms reading too high?
CBC17DD6-744A-4058-9EC8-1C1EBCC82579.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #37
On the bench test, sorry ,thought it was obvious
Black wire goes to a battery neg
Pink wire goes to battery pos
Tan wire momentarily touches battery neg to simulate the oil pressure switch closing.

Gas gauge moving when you touch the brake with the ign off, typically reeks of grounding issues.
Will this bench test elimate cluster from my oil guage problem if and when I toggle the tan wire momentarily to the battery negative providing the needle flops opposite every time I do so? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Here is the bench test result with the power and ground connected. (Guage powered up if you will.) the needle shot up very high like when I start the vehicle. Sorry it’s upside down. That’s how I managed without ruining my set up.
C043BC70-D031-412C-9044-7D89D0EB3EE1.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I don’t know what happened but I believe I may have something going on here where the needle had been taken off the guage pin and put back on on a different location of its 360 degree calibrated mark. So what I did is remove the needle, put the cluster back in the dash, start the car, then put the needle back on in between the fair “middle” zone of “oil pressure good” and walahhh. It works again. 😂 serious. When I turn the key to on, the needle goes to zero. When I crank and it fires, it bounces back into the fair zone. What do you guys think? Fixed? Notes: First picture is key on and second picture is car running.
666E011E-DE77-4284-876A-82A7E63B40EB.jpeg
A9EBA5CA-47D5-45A3-9372-0A1A93286946.jpeg
 
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