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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I wrote this to a (Very smart)guy here...."I was reading your 2009 thread on oil pressure gauge switch #12533175 (0-60). Is there a 0-35#.? Instead of the hard way cuting the resistor out, why not just shoot 12 volts into it. Burn it out, thats a lot eazier. Or remove the ground wire down at the floor". You other guys can add,input too.......Oldhead PS: I got a headliner for $200 cash, I had to smack the show owner a couple of times first
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hi

thats the wrong 12533175, right one is 12553175....Summit replacement is in Standard brand PS 262 (0-60) I still would like 0- 35 or 40 #
 

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What difference does it make? 35 vs 60#...the nice thing about a 60# is that you can look at it, and if the needle somewhere near the middle, it is good.
 

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The fact a "gauge"can read whatever you want should also suggest not to rely upon it's reading(s)...
 

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The fact a "gauge"can read whatever you want should also suggest not to rely upon it's reading(s)...
You seem to be confusing calibration with accuracy. A very expensive gauge connected to the wrong sensor will be accurate. It will display the same data every time the sensor sends it. That does not mean it is calibrated. This means it will display the wrong value if not calibrated but will do it precisely the same way every time.


The GM sensor may not be as good as aftermarket. For most people after they decide what is "normal" they are looking for "abnormal" readings. They have a calibration in their mind. To them 42psi or 48psi does not matter, what matters is if the "normal" changes.


MeterMatch Computer Gauge Calibrator
https://www.impalassforum.com/vBulletin/26-electrical/1315536-metermatch-computer-gauge-calibrator.html
Make the gauge read what you want or calibrate it.



I think the oil gauge thread lists a truck sensor that is 0-40psi. My personal opinion is that the 0-60psi unit is less stressed and will last longer.
 

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I used to calibrate instruments. The gauge can not read whatever you want, it reads what it is calibrated to. If you modify the calibration, it will give you an incorrect reading on the face, but the measured, in this case pressure, will be the same. You can modify the face of the instrument to suit the new measurement. Either way, the measurement is the same with different readouts, it does not matter whether you have a 35# gauge, or a 60# gauge, if it is calibrated correctly, the gauge face will read the same pressure.

A good gauge will tend to read more correctly in the middle portion of the gauge, so that is why most applications have the reading appear in the center of the gauge sweep. In the case of oil pressure, a tolerance of 2-3 lbs is probably within the acceptable range. In an integrated system such as the car, where there are multiple reading taken by the system, changing one output can affect inputs to other systems, such as warning lights and chimes.
 

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Yeah,well some prefer knowing the actual pressure more than some "pretend" pressure. I'm far more comfortable with aftermarket gauges,but realize they aren't for everyone. Seems that for many folks the actual idiot light has a big advantage over the "glorified" ones that took their place.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi

I just don't want on a hot idle a reading thats real low Oldhead
 

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Install a potentiometer,and you can make it read whatever you like by turning a knob....
 
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