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A special thanks to DeadHeart who saved this, and then sent it to me.

This was originally posted 12-20-2003 @ 09:52 AM

Just figured I throw this one up. Mark Michna threw an "Optipalooza" a while back and I rebuilt my Opti there. The operation went so smooth, I figured I'd document the procedure.

Things to have on hand;

PERMATEX No. 2 Sealant
Dielectric Grease
Teflon Paste
Thread Sealant
Opti 1104032 or Rebuild Kit 10457293(Or aftermarket)
Water pump and gaskets(no use in leaving the old one in)(New GM pump 12527740 comes with stat, outlet and superb machining)
New thermostat 12555290 (unless the waterpump comes with it)(drill small hole in outside portion to aid bleeding if your stat does not have one or a jiggle-valve)
Opti vacuum harness 12555323(VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED)
Opti seal 12552428 (If removing opti)(50/50 chance of leaking if you don't replace ...)
Seal Puller (If removing opti)
FreaseBleeder or homemade tube type bleeder(so you don't pour coolant all over the place when bleeding with the stock bleeder)
1-2 gallons of antifreeze depending on expected temps(Toyota red is the best, IMO)
2-3 gallons of distilled water
1/4" and 3/8" shallow and deep well metric sockets, extensions, and ratchets
E4 Female Torx Driver(If rebuilding(may need to be ground down to fit(Some say E5 ))
T9 Male Torx Driver (If rebuilding)
air ratchet if you have it...
Metric combination wrenches
Breaker bar
Gasket scraper and wire brush or wire wheel(highly recommended)
Sharpie or other fine point permanent marker
if not using new factory pump, thread chasers or taps for thermostat housing and temp sensor on wp
Harmonic balancer puller
(unless you've removed it before and sanded and greased things so it will slide off) (jaw puller will not be very good here...)
Emery cloth or sandpaper
Wire brush or wire wheel

Disconnect negative battery cable
Drain radiator.
Remove intake paraphanalia between MAF and TB
Pull radiator and heater hoses.
Remove AIR pump first. Disconnect harness.
Remove bolt holding AIR pipe to AIR pump bracket.(Biotch!)
Remove AIR pump bracket.
Remove water pump(have new WP handy to see all the bolt holes...)Use mallet to break lose when all bolts off. Put wp driveshaft in pocket or some other safe place. Lose it and a replacement will not be found over the weekend...
Blow water out of block with compressed air or use rags or remove knock sensor to get the water level down.
Use wire wheel and/or scraper to clean old gaskets down to bare metal
Install freasebleeder on water outlet(use permatex or teflon on threads)
Use wire wheel on threads of all bolts
Remove belt
Remove harmonic balancer(not hub, just balancer)
Sand inside harmonic balancer and hub snout clean, apply thin coat of grease
If you are going to delete AIR pump and tubes, now is a good time
Number wires with sharpie
Remove wires, opti harness hoses, and connector
Remove Opti (You can leave Opti on if rebuilding)
Remove and replace opti vacuum harness
Remove and replace seal(If Opti removed)

Install opti(If Opti removed) (can be a biotch)
Attach wires, vacuum harness, and connector to opti
Install harmonic balancer
If you want to test opti, you can start the engine now(reconnect batteryfirst), you must have IAC and coolant sensor in place(at least on a '96)(you may need to spray a little starter fluid to get it to crank with the MAF not in line)
Make sure wp has an impeller
Install wp driveshaft
If wp is not new factory pump, chase threads and apply thin coat of permatex to thermostat gasket area
Install temp sensor using teflon
Apply thin coat of permatex to water passage flanges and block side of wp gaskets. allow to tack up for about 15 minutes.
Install thermostat and water outlet, use teflon on wp outlet bolts
Apply Thread Sealant to wp bolts
install wp and gaskets(make sure all bolts are in place)
(Ignore AIR pump steps if deleting...)
Install AIR pump bracket, but leave bolts loose if reattaching AIR tube bolt on back(you will be sorely tempted to say screw it..., its a BIOTCH!)
Tighten AIR pump bracket bolts
Attach AIR pump connecter
Install AIR pump
Attach radiator and heater hoses
Install intake
Reconnect battery
Fill coolant system
Attach hose to freasebleeder and route it to tank
Open bleeder
Start engine
Turn heater on and set to full heat
Will probably take a minute or two for coolant to appear in frease bleeder hose
Allow to reach operating temp and close freasebleeder and remove hose
Allow heat to rise until 1/2 way and turn A/C or defroster on so fan will come on. Temp should fall to around normal. If it continues to climb, you may need to bleed more or have a bad stat on your hands.(or no impeller in WP if you forgot to check...)
Take test drive, paying strict attention to temp guage.
If all is well, good job!

Thanks to Fleetwood SS for these pics;


576 Posts
Unless I missed it in all that info, I didn't see anything about replacing the water pump seal. If you don't, it will leak.

**Get the Fel Pro gasket set that will have all the seals/gaskets to do the job.

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